tonymaddux

Members
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About tonymaddux

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/04/1965

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'll agree with Dwollam. My 1918 by the numbers was built in late January, 1918, and had the Delco distributor. sure wish I could find a cap for it.
  2. Does anyone know of a modern replacement distributor cap for the early Delco distributor? I would sure like to have a spare cap. I see on the DB news CD-ROM that someone had a die for sale 20 years ago for the caps, wonder if it might still be around?
  3. a few years ago (well, okay, maybe twelve or 13) I was fortunate enough to be able to take advantage of the ever-rarer Kansas snowstorms, and got to do donuts in the parking lot of the local Arby's with my Model A Pickup. Probably really did a number on those tapered axle shafts, but it was a hoot. The old pickup didn't want to start after sitting outside overnight in the snow, and I got quite a workout hand-cranking that stubborn engine. And that little old truck got a good winter workout, too.
  4. Is anyone in Albuquerque going to the Chickasha Swap Meet March 17-19? any chance you would be able to haul a 1952 Studebaker hood and Front Fenders? Would be able to pay for your help. Thanks
  5. I'll have to agree with JB-ed on this one. It would likely be easier to make new sheet metal parts than to try to cut up the sedan. And along with his woodie idea, I currently have a wooden body on my touring, while the body is off the frame for rust repair. I scavenged several shipping pallets and hammered together what is possibly the world's ugliest wood-bodied car, just so I could drive the thing some while I was working on the body. Honestly, it looks a lot like a soap-box derby car from back when they actually made them from soap boxes. It is wood from the hood all the way back, solid oak, with a flat bed on the back. Wood cowl, wood doors, wood seats, and there is even a seat belt mounted to the frame, for the young passenger. I have been in two parades with it, and the crowds love it! I'd post a picture of it here if I had one handy.
  6. Will the front fenders off a 1950 Champion 2-door sedan fit a 1952 Commander 4-door? How about the rear fenders? Is there a body parts interchange manual available?
  7. Thanks! I did some internet searching before going down to the parts house, and found that some ATVs use a 6205-2RS bearing. I was driving through Fort Wayne, Indiana Thursday and happened upon a motorcycle shop, went in, and asked the guy to look up the bearing number. He did have one in stock and for less than 6 bucks I had the bearing. It fit like it was made just for the NE Model G, and the starter/generator sounds a whole lot better now. I haven't got it back on the car yet, as I damaged the gear getting to the bearing, but I think all should be well.
  8. ANyone out there had to replace the front bearing (the one behind the gear) on the Model G? What did you use? Thanks.
  9. Russ, I hope by now your problems with becoming a member have been addressed, and as a fellow DB Club member would like to take this opportunity to say "Welcome Aboard!". You will find that the Dodge Brothers Club has some very helpful people in its membership ranks.
  10. This won't help you much now that you already have your head off, but it may help the next guy. When I was trying to pull the head off my 1918 DB touring, I used the chain and old spark plug method mentioned above, with a come-along attached to an overhead rafter. I actually lifted the entire front end of the car off the ground. When it finally 'let go' I discovered that what was holding the head on so tenaciously was rust particles between the head and the studs. If there is a way to remove any of that rust (which of course, removing the head and letting it all fall out is a great way to do it)it will definitely help with the head removal. The holes through the head aren't big enough to allow a tool to be inserted down along the bolts, but some compressed air might remove some of the rust in this area. Remember if you try this method to definitely use safety glasses and protect whatever else needs covered. Likely, you already soaked those stud nuts with WD-40 or equivalent, which ran down in the holes and stuck all these rust particles together, but it's worth a shot.
  11. I have done some looking in the McMaster Carr catalog, and down at the local Ace Hardware sotre, and it looks like a knurled thumbscrew with 6-32 threads comes pretty close to the old hardware, except that they aren't quite long enough to go through the switch back. McMaster Carr has some flanged inserts for plastic that may work also. I put the switch away for the weekend to concentrate on the vacuum tank. If you have ever taken one of these apart, you might notice that over the years the top of the vacuum tank has warped upward somewhat between the screws. It takes a good gasket and/or sealer to fill these gaps. Anyway, I must have done something right because it seems to work, at idle anyway. Yesterday I put a tank of gas on top of the gas tank (I know, I should use the gas tank on the car, but it has a hole in it), started up the car, and let it fumigate the shed for an hour. Since the car is running rich, I shouldn't have trouble with those darn spiders and sparrows for a few days. I am planning on taking my car to the parade in Sugarcreek, Ohio this Saturday, and hope to see other DBers doing the same thing. She isn't pretty yet, but the car runs and drives and hopefully can last through a long parade. Seems like this parade last year ran about an hour and 40 minutes. If I was sure she would run the whole parade, it wouldn't be nearly as much fun!
  12. Posting a follow-up, for any interested parties: I have cut three circles out of a 'sample piece' of garolite obtained from McMaster-Carr, and cemented them together with 'Marine Goop', an adhesive I had laying around. So far it has worked well, but then, I haven't really done anything to the blank! I was working on a pattern for drilling the holes last night. I have both the '3 position' switch that was in my 1918 DB dashboard, and a '4 position' switch that was in a dashboard purchased at an auction, presumably about a 1922-24 model. The 4 position switch allows you to run with just the parking lamp on, I believe. After comparing the switch backs with the Dodge Brothers 1914-1927 manual, neither one of these switches are the same as the ones pictured in the manual. This is not the first time I have come across parts of this car that don't agree with any of the literature I have (try finding the 2-bolt oil pump, and its oil pan, in the Master Parts Book!). Anyway, after making tracings of both switch backs to make patterns, I have decided to use the 3 position switch and see what happens. I am as yet unsure what I will be using to make the brass contacts that pass through the new switch back, so I will not be drilling the holes yet. I would like to re-use the parts I have, but don't want to destroy the old switch backs to get them out. More posts forthcoming as new progress as made.
  13. Sorry, I sold the snubbers awhile back. I'll check around with some of the guys I know and see if there are any others available though!
  14. Got a 'sample piece' of garolite board from McMaster-Carr yesterday. 6 by 6 inches, more than enough for 1 or two switches even. Did you use any glue between the layers when you doubled the board? What kind did you use? I measured the old piece of board as 2 1/8 inches in diameter. Did you use a hole saw to cut this piece?
  15. Thanks guys. I hadn't thought about phenolic yet. Sounds like a great idea, it will be reasonably easy to drill those dimples as well as the holes for the contacts in that stuff. I've driven my car some, and it works okay without it, but it would be nice to get that ignition switch working and in the electrical system where it belongs. Am going to try to get it out for its first parade the last weekend in September.