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brian j

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  1. I can't think of a better way to go................crankin' wrenches, and shinin' it up.
  2. Hi Ray. You should pull the spark plugs anyway, and assess their condition. Running the car for a time with that misfiring problem may have sooted them up, so they won't perform as well.
  3. Hi Ray. First of all........any backfiring would usually launch a mouse nest, mouse and all out the tail pipe. When an engine runs fine, and then suddenly backfires, it sometimes means there is a failure of the spark plugs to ignite the fuel during an engine cycle, and then in another cycle the spark plug fires, making a "backfire", from the excess of fuel that was shoved down the exhaust pipe without being burned. Working backwards, i would test/check the plugs for intermittent firing or fouling(causing intermittent firing), and then outdoors i would place a dark tarp or blanket over the engine compartment area so in the darkness you can witness any sparking or shorting out of the plug wires,cap, or coil, or associated wiring. Make sure you have proper ventilation, so there's no carbon monoxide danger. Then i would attach a timing light to each plug wire to watch for intermittent firing. You can visually see that the light will either blink steady, or "skip" a beat.If "all" the plug wires are miss firing i would place the timing light sensor over the coil wire, to see if it's the distributor or coil causing the problem. Sometimes the distributor cap inside terminals get corroded, along with the rotor terminal, causing a slight timing change, which can cause a backfire. If there is no intermittent firing, it could be excessively rich fuel mixture, or possibly a timing issue. Any backfiring itself is enough to load the plugs up and cause the engine to "choke" itself, and making the engine die out untill it sits for a few minutes to allow the fuel to evaporate, clearing the plug. I hope this helps. Good luck.
  4. Hi. Do not turbocharge your 213. They were originally made, as most of the IH sixes were to run at lower rpms with good torque for hauling loads. They are not speed monsters. If you try to make one go fast it'll break in ways you never thought possible.I could go into an explanation as to why, but it would take too much time. Yes, the roads were full of 40 MPH drivers in 1940..........as a matter of fact there weren't many highways back then. 40 was pretty fast on the gravel. If you want to go faster try a bigger IH engine like the 264 or 265 black diamond engines. They still aren't made for speed, but they have oodles of power/torque. So much torque you can place an IH overdrive trans behind them and go 70 all day. And they still get good mileage, unlike the monster 500 cubic inch sixes that IH made also , but get about 2 miles per gallon of gas fuel consumption. As far as i know, no IH engine was ever made to run much over 4000 rpm max,and many won't tolerate sustained 3500 rpm making them poor candidates for turbocharging.
  5. Just a note as it hasn't been brought up. If the serial number on the toe board is missing, the serial number is also stamped on the top of the frame crossmember, just in front of the front seat base. You might have to clean the rust off with a wire brush to see it. It's stamped right in the center of the crossmember on the top so when you look down you can see it.
  6. Hi. I'm in Northeastern Minnesota, and am not much of a clubber. The nearest organized meets are in Minneapolis/St. Paul area, 2 hours away. I like to attend a few shows every year. I'm most likely going to sell my 1919 DB convertible (no, it's not a cabriolet) coupe this spring. I absolutely love the car, but i'm primarily an AMC collector, of which i have 6 cars,plus parts cars. I'm having problems with not enough space in my shop. My car is 99.9 % complete, and runs/drives but needs restoration. My DB coupe is optioned out to the max for it's day, and is ultra rare, as you are getting the idea with your 1921 DB. My AMC cars are also rare, i have a pair i won't name that are the only pair in existence. I have a Hurst SC/Rambler, a high priority for restoration, one of 355 known to exist from the original 1500 produced. I have a 1973 AMC 401 go pac car,fully restored, about 4000 originally produced, maybe 500 left. Also a 1967 Marlin, needing resto, but probably the only totally rust free 1967 Marlin project car in existence. There are about 20 fully restored ones left. Last, but not least a 1966 American convertible, of which there are maybe 20-30 left. Now you can see my point..........where do you cut?????? I have been extraordinarily lucky in finding each of these cars. Really. If i were to give any one of them up including the DB, it's gone forever. It's not likely my luck would continue, and i would find another one day. So i have to choose wisely. My rationale to sell the DB id because i can't allocate much money to restore it, and i feel it might be better off in the hands of a serious DB collector, who would make it the crown jewel it needs to be. On the other hand i'm going to set the reserve at $6K in order to scare the people off that won't restore it properly, or turn it into a hot rod. Putting it on Ebay at this reserve may mean i'll be keeping it if it doesn't sell. In which case i'll be primarily working on the mechanical maintenance,and not much more. If i still have it next year i plan on bringing it to the 100 year Dodge Brothers anniversary show in Detroit to display there. In the meantime i'll get together with you and send pics/compare notes/etc. so we can get educated on these unusual and interesting cars. Regards Just a last note; the 1967 Marlin is also on my cutting list. If it goes first the Dodge may stay.
  7. Hi. I did plenty of research on these vehicles, and there are some interesting details i would like to share/compare with your car.
  8. Hi. I have an early Dodge Brothers car, with i believe Hayes 25 inch wire wheels with 33X4 high pressure tires. The "spare" that mounts on the back came with no "lock ring". I would like to be able to mount a tire on the wheel, and am looking for either a lock ring for my wheel, or an entire wheel. I can be emailed direct at beelee167@gmail.com or cal 218-310-7837 Thanks, Regards,Brian
  9. Once you start using POR-15 paint, you'll never want to use anything else, even powdercoat, which i believe to be inferior to POR-15 in the area of chip resistance. As with anything, good surface prep makes sure the paint stays put. Por -15 can be sprayed or brushed, but sprayed you need DRY air or it'll harden in the gun. It cures by the moisture in the air. Once dry it's like iron. If you spill it on the floor it's never coming off. If you get it on your hands, you have to wait untill it wears off. If you use a brush to apply,lay it on thin or it will run. 2 thin coats covers well. Because it CURES by air moisture, when applied it flows out like glass, leaving few to none brush marks, depending on the person applying, and quality of brush. On a humid day it cures faster. It has a ketone odor, so ventilation is needed. Don't leave the can open,after you open it, or it will harden in the can. I like to use the small half pint cans so i use it up in one sitting. The stuff covers well, and a quart should easily do an entire frame, and then some. It comes in the colors of base coat of gloss black/silver /satin black. Good stuff. Get a small can and try it out on something. Then you'll get my drift. Regards.
  10. I once had a 1934 Chrysler Airflow that was like your car bbbbbb9. It was a very parts intensive car that was i decided at one point would not be a very feasible original restoration. Believe me i sat on that car for 10 years, not getting anywhere with it. It just needed too many hard to find parts, and i only had 1 lifetime to find them, which i had discerned was too little time to complete it. I just had too little patience to spend the rest of my life hunting them down. It had a good running engine and overdrive trans,and a rare radio, so i sold them to people who were restoring Airflows. The basic rolling body went to a Rodder, and some rare parts that garnered no interest on Ebay here in the U.S. went to Sweden to a very appreciative Airflow owner. Originally i bought the car to restore it, but as in your case, it wasn't in the cards. So i did the next best thing. I got my money back, and then some. I got much needed parts to new homes that would bring RESTORABLE Airflows back to life, and EVERY part to this car is serving someone somewhere. The moral to this story.........Do what works for YOU.........and make yourself happy...........and the rest of the world be damned if they don't like it. If someone gets on your case tell them, as soon as they start financing your project, then they can tell you what way to do it. Don't get me wrong.....i am really into correct restorations...........within reason. I once had a 1967 AMC Marlin "parts car" i was using for a Marlin i was restoring. It's a very rare car and few remain. It had been languishing outdoors , and had sank to the floor pans into the ground. It had rusted so badly the unibody frame rails/floor were barely holding the seats to the floor. A real true Flintstones car. But it was pretty much complete. While i was winching it on my trailer the car nearly broke in half, it was so rusted. After i got the parts i needed, i offered parts to be used to restore other Marlins on a forum, and was surprised when i found myself being chided for calling it a "parts car", and was instructed that NO Marlin is a parts car. (because they are rare). Give me a break! This car sat for sale for 2 years outdoors for $500.00 , and NO takers. Yet as soon as i picked it up someone was trying to tell me i had some sort of responsibility to glorify this rust pile with a restoration, and deny parts to people who could bring the numbers of restored Marlins up. You have to take others opinions with a grain of salt, and do what right for you at the end of the day. Good luck with your car. Regards.
  11. IMHO the only way to change he deeply rooted ideals of another is to befriend the person and SHOW them your point in a new positive light. I other words get the 2 sides together in each others territory. Only then can they see you as you want to be seen. Get out of your armchairs, and walk amongst the guys with their Rat Rods,etc. Talk to them respectfully, and LISTEN to what they say, and you'll find you aren't so far apart after all. I remember going to a car show that the so called "tuner cars" were featured (Toyotas and the like). I didn't know much about these cars so i cornered one of the participants, and asked him about his car. He enthusiastically went on about the work he had done, and how he struggled to find parts, and money to put into it, and if i would have closed my eyes i could easily have pictured myself with my 1950 Chevrolet pickup, back in 74'. He was obviously pumped up to see an old geezer like me looking over his pride and joy. I knew in my heart this kid had the bug, and i will probably spot him again when he's older, and showing off his Dodge Brothers car he picked up, and has dug as deeply into as the tuner car he has today. As people get older they tend to forget about the early days, with the old leaky rust buckets, we were so proud to own. And the smell of axle grease, and gasoline in our clothes, after a day of busted knuckles and a few well placed curse words. We were hooked on these cars, like a fish on a hook, and there wasn't anyone or anything could convince us our way wasn't the only way. But we really need to be careful about stepping on others toes,................lest someone decide to step on ours one day. RESPECT is what it's all about. That's why veiled comments on a persons character, or choice of iron, or intelligence level don't cut it. Sometimes i think people don't even realize they are doing it. They think by soft peddling the comments, and not being direct, that somehow they are being "nice". There is just no way to win a person over, by patting them on the back with one hand, and yankin' their hemorroids with the other. That's why this subject continues to repeat, on most every forum i've been on. We really need to take a good hard look at ourselves in the mirror to see where the solution lies. Regards.
  12. I'm involved in other forums for vehicles such as American Motors, and International Harvester. The moderators on these forums generally draw the line at threads that are "no longer friendly", meaning the threads that show a continuing ill will, however true the subject may be. I think the intent of keeping these off is to keep the subject matter about the vehicles in general, and not politics, and philosophy, which can go on forever. Just look at the Republican vs. Democrat debates, or the abortion vs. pro life debates. These things go on for ever and ever, and it's not likely with even the slickest smoothest diatribe, that a person will change their basic philosophies of life,..........including Restoration vs. Rodding. Which of course is what makes this country we live in(even with it's faults), the greatest in the world. I personally believe in the Restoration of cars for the most part, but also have an understanding and interest in performance, customization, resto-mod(the alterations made for modern safety and reliabilty). Even Rat Rodding has a place, and offers opportunities for people who have a severely limited budget, or young entry level youth to enjoy the interest in old automobiles. But i also have my personal preference for Restoration, and with that, expect respect for my philosophy, and try to always respect others even if i have no understanding or leanings as to their beliefs. This is the line i draw.................no matter what vehicle, be it a hot rod, Rat Rod, Rust bucket, Model T, Fire truck, DB, Crosley, Delorean, Stutz...................................don't try to deny its owner his enjoyment in the car. We only get one go-around in this life, and we need to think more about our appreciation of what we've been blessed with. And not worry so much about what others have done to bring about THEIR happiness. I guess if anything were to bother me about the old car hobby, i have difficulty understanding how someone could have a beautiful old car, and not drive it. I personally could never own a trailer queen/concours car, but HEY.............to each, his own. Regards, and Happy Holidays.
  13. Boy, the economy must really be in trouble............an early Dodge Brothers roadster with restored rims/frame/new tires........complete with engine. It wasn't even a rust bucket. Bidding was over yesterday.......... NO BIDS at $500.00................not even a Rat Rodder would take it. Wow! The economy must be pretty bad out west.
  14. He finally changed his ad wording to match the heading, but he still thinks it's a 1914 coupe..............and no bids.
  15. Hi. Just a "heads up" for you guys. On Ebay right now there is an ad heading 1914 DB Business Coupe. The car is in Ca. so whomever lives out that way might want to give it a look. It's a no reserve car, and it looks as if a restoration was started, as the frame/wheels/tires look newly done. Even though the ad heading calls it one thing, the ad content says another, calling it a 1927 car. And the pics show something else entirely..........which it appears to be an early roadster. This car looks to have ended up in the hands of someone who has no clue as to EXACTLY WHAT he has, and the best part.........4 days left on the auction, and no bids...........no reserve........and a starting bid of $500.00. The tires alone are worth that. I don't know this guy, or the car, but if i lived closer i would certainly be checking into it, even if just for the parts. But i'll bet there's a DB guy that lives out in that neck of the woods who might be interested. Regards.
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