DSpringer
-
Posts
394 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by DSpringer
-
-
Does anyone know of a source for kingpin sets (kingpins, bearings, locking pins, shims, etc.) I bought a set for a '41 Ford thinking they would fit but on closer examination it looks like they have a smaller diameter.
Dave
-
Haven't been on LZOC in quite a while. Just take the Zephyr out for a spin every month or so and everything still works, so no reason to. Thankfully I have an Earl Brown-built distributor in reserve. But Tom, I am curious what you use to read RPM and how you connect it.
Dave
1941 Zephyr Sedan (in family since new)
1969 Saab 96 V4
1973 Sonett V4
-
Inspecting the worm gear and race I saw no evidence of wear. I removed two of the .020" and two of the .010" shims, effectively cutting the overall shim thickness in half from .120" to .060". That, and adjusting the steering gear adjustment screw for minimal drag seems to have solved the problem.
-
Yes, thanks for the suggestions. I've done all those tests. I can't detect any play in the wheels so the king pins seem o.k. The tie rod ends and drag link are tight though I might replace them anyway while I'm at it. When I have someone move the steering wheel the pitman arm doesn't move until the steering wheel is rocked back and forth over the 1-1/2" range I mentioned. So it looks like I will have to replace the steering shaft/worm drive and the shaft & roller assembly if not the entire box.
Do you know of anyone that rebuilds steering gear boxes? In the meantime I'm going to continue to play with shims and see what I get. The Chasis Parts Catalog shows just two in the diagram (for 1946 cars), a 0.010" and a 0.020". Mine has five 0.020" and two 0.010". Tight spots are preferable to a huge amount of slop, but breakage....
-Dave
-
Jeff, I have 1-1/2" of free play in the steering wheel measured where the spoke attaches to the wheel. Makes it wild to drive, especially in strong wind. Is it true I can tighten it up by removing shims (3563 & 3564 in the Chassis Parts Catalog)? Any experience with that?
-Dave
-
Just down the road from me in Winters. Nice work!
-
John, I'm considering this for my '41 Zephyr if I can find the parts. Do you need to enlarge the tunnel to get it to fit? Seems like a fairly major undertaking.
Dave
-
Here's another: https://www.hemmings.com/auction/1941-lincoln-continental?utm_medium=email&utm_source=auctions_newsletter&utm_campaign=2020-03-19
Hampton Blue and paisley seats?
-
It's been about 7 years since I installed the windshield on my '41, but if I recall correctly, the seal I got from Narragansett in the 80's was continuous but has a seam on the bottom side and centered on the glass. I would install it on the glass and join the ends with 3M super weatherstrip adhesive while taping it firmly in place while it sets. It is probably form-fitted to go on that way and should be of the proper length.
The glass installs from the inside. Be sure to use the proper kind of sealant. I made a 2x4 prop to hold the glass in place while I installed the trim, which is what secures it.
If you have the dashboard out for woodgraining, be sure to install it first because the windshield trim must be removed to install the dash.
-
I would try Merv Adkins for a used tank. He's at the top of the list under Sources & Tech Info. As for the rag top, I would join LZOC, request the membership directory, and scan for members with 06H56 cars. Most of those listed have phone numbers or email addresses and might know where to point you.
-
Thanks, guys. Will try both and report back.
-
Along with Narragansett Reproductions we lost LeBaron Bonney (in Chapter 7) recently. They supplied the broadcloth for my '41 Sedan. I think the only one left is SMS Auto Fabrics, but their selection is more limited. After a lot of looking ten years ago I couldn't find anyone who provided interior kits. I had an upholsterer use the shabby fabric I provided as a pattern.
-
I have a lot of play in my steering, which gives me white knuckles especially when driving in windy conditions. The old Earl Brown article in the latest TWOTZ talks about replacing all the bushings in the steering box with bearings, but the car is fully restored and I never could figure out how to pull the steering column and box when I had it torn apart. The nut securing the Pittman arm was loose but tightening that didn't completely solve the problem. I guess replacing the tie rod ends is next.
-
Love to see the old postings from Rolf and Dee. Are you still out there Dee?
-
I've always been curious about the balancers. What vibrations are they designed to dampen? From the fan?
-
You can try SMS. I found a reasonable but not perfect match for my '41 Zephyr.
-
Might provide some extra protection in a rear-ender. I'm not sure what purpose that splash guard between the body and rear bumper serves, but I had to have one.
-
I'm currently running Redline 20W-50 synthetic. The higher viscosity helps keep oil pressure up and it has "higher levels of ZDDP". Running SAE 140 in the transmission to quiet the gremlins that started singing on our trip to Montana.
I'm fairly convinced that the PCV valve and active crankcase ventilation is keeping the sludge and smoke away.
-
Adrian,
I have the article and scanned it as a pdf, which I cannot attach. Email me at daspring42@gmail.com and I will send it to you. It was in Vol. 46 Nov/Dec.The title is "The ABC's of Adjusting 1936 to 1938 Lincoln Zephyr Brakes."
Dave
-
I used Narragansett for my '41 and was very happy with the quality of the harnesses, accuracy of color coding, and the helpful wiring diagrams. I got a little stumped with connections to the circuit breaker panel, and can help with that if you need it. Seems like it will never come together, but it magically does and everything works. I wonder if Narragansett and Rhode Island use the same maker.
-
On 7/11/2018 at 6:19 PM, 1941 said:
Jeff - I used a torque wrench that I borrowed from a retired helicopter mechanic 4' long .
he is going to sell it to me as soon as he gets back up here. IT IS A DANDY
This is the same guy who did my valves when I had to buy a new block.
That must be for what my helicopter mechanic brother called the Jesus nut. If it comes loose the main rotors take off on their own.
-
Got mine at Carbs Unlimited - http://www.carburetion.com/. I also bought main jet needle valves from Vintage Speed to try to lean out the mixture, but all they did is make the engine run rough. I think I'm running .061 jets and they give me plenty of go and 12-13 mpg.
From my experience the trickiest thing is getting the right power valve. With the wrong one you will experience surging as you accelerate, or you will get lousy mileage and rough running. It took me a while, but I figured out how they work: At idle the vacuum is high and pulls the valve closed against spring pressure. When the vacuum decreases during acceleration the spring pushes the valve open. Of the several I tested, I found the one with the weakest spring gave me the best result. I also recommend you fill the float chamber with fuel with the top off the carb and watch for drips off the bottom of the power valve. Sometimes it's hard to get a good seal.
I recommend a thorough cleaning - dip in carb cleaner for several hours and blow everything out before you reassemble.
-
I had that same problem with the plugs falling out after my engine had been rebuilt. I pulled the pan to install a Melling pump only to find that I already had one, and two plugs laying in the pan. My first effort to reinstall them using LockTite and some glancing blows failed. On the second try I made a tool to lever them in place, but I think I may still have lost one since the oil pressure is not where it ought to be. Somewhere I read that using a double-ended nut and a couple bolts you can apply a lot of pressure to the caps, which is what i will do if I ever get the gumption to pull that pan again.
-
Welcome to the Forum, Springer! Here is a 2006 post by Dee Peecher on this topic:
"Clearance ramps for adjustable tappets can be easily added when the cam is reground. If you use the adjustable tappets the clearances would be the same as the '36 and '37 12's. Many guys have gone this route and there are some advantages. You can eliminate the secondary oil line that feeds the lifters but you must provide a pressure relief passage at the front relief valve in order to assure lubrication to the timing gear. With the proper cam grind the engine will run as quiet as a flathead Ford. The hydraulic tappets of course will run a tad quieter as long as as long as they are in good shape and oil pressure is decent."
-
1
-
Best place to start on front end suspension bushes
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Trying to resolve exessive slop in the steering of my '41 Zephyr. Installed new tie-rod ends and removed shims from the steering box, which seems tight now. I suspect worn kingpins but will be checking wheel bearings. I bought a set of kkingpins for a '41 Ford but it looks like they have a smaller diameter - 0.810" vs. the 0.933" that I measured after removing the lower retaining screw and cap.
Merv Adkins used to offer them but he's been out of the game for a few years. Trying Whelihan and Boos-Herrel but they've been slow to respond. Seems like our old reliable parts sources are slowly fading away.
Dave