rgshafto

Thanks Paul. They can supply the wire.

My 6-cyl. '36 Pontiac coupe with the high rear end (4.11!) cruises quite comfortably at 55. New front spring shackles really helped reduce the amount of "wander."

The metal wrapped horn wire on my '36 Pontiac is shorting out where it exits the steering box. Rather than trying to patch it, I'd like to get a new wire or have my existing wire rewrapped. Anyone know a source for such a thing? Thanks, Bob

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice.

Where would I find that article?

I'm looking at acquiring a '47 Buick sedanette which I would use to do some long distance touring (month long trips, thousands of miles each). I know the nailhead eights are renown for their reliability, but wonder what kind of gas mileage they get? And are their any routine issues one might expect to encounter in such circumstances that I should be aware of (overheating, vapor lock, etc.)? Thanks for any advice offered.

Thanks!

I'm trying to identify this transmission unit. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks guys, very helpful!

Anyone have a recommendation for where I might find a reliable high quality 6v inline fuel pump (brand, source)? I'm looking for one for one of my '36 Pontiac Sixes, preferably small and quiet. Thanks!

Yes,bulbs are easy. Sockets hard to come by.

Anyone know of a source of mid-30's pre-focused light bulb headlight sockets that fit GM cars of that era? Two terminals, 3-bayonet point mount, high & low beam. Parking light separate. Thanks.

What car / engine did you install your HEI in Helfen? And where did you buy it?

Thanks guys, that gives me hope. I have a NOS water dist. tube. All I've got to do is figure out how to get it in position.

So I decided to tear into my spare '36 Pontiac flathead 6 this weekend to see what kind of condition it was in. Lots of good news in terms of wear, but the water distribution tube that runs the length of the block is broken off behind the water pump and the remains are very rusty and very attached to the block itself. There is very little room to work with - it's a ±1" x 2" slot – although you can get at both ends. Apparently the days of immersing a block in toxic solutions that could do the job are over, so I'm wondering what some other remedies might be. Anyone have any good ideas how to rescue and otherwise very solid engine? I've thought of spraying PB Blaster in there and constructing a scraper shaped to fit, but I wonder if there is an easier way? Any advice much appreciated!

Thanks Joe, I'll give that a try, with kitty litter at the ready. I've had that nose off a dozen times or more since I bought the car - my 1st in 1965 - and have never had such a problem. Always a first time for everything I guess.

Hoses are new and aren't collapsing. Some heat in each of them, but not much.

Had the nose of my '36 Pontiac flathead six coupe this spring to do a variety of maintenance tasks, which meant draining the radiator. Got it all back together the other day and hadn't driven 2 miles when the temp went to 220. It would briefly drop back to 180, then shoot up again. Ah says I, stuck thermostat from sitting all winter. [When I put it up last December it was running fine.] Replaced the thermostat with a new one, but the same problem continues. Heats up, will briefly cool down again, but then goes right back up. No heat from the heater, so no circulation going on in that circuit. Tested the thermostat I took out and its works perfectly. The 20-yr old radiator has always been maintained well (flushed periodically, coolant changed every 3 yrs or so) and drains easily. The water pump has less than 1,500 miles on it. I suspect cavitation in the pump, but don't know how to test for it or how it might be remedied. Any ideas?:confused:

These data plates aren't always accurate. I once found an 8-cyl 36 cabriolet in a junkyard that had a 36-2667 code. 26 means a 6 cyl; 67 a cabriolet. 19 is correct for a 4dr, but it should have been a 2819. Sign on as an Early Times Chapter member and this kind of information becomes readily available.

Wilton Auto Electric 10 Stoney Brook Dr. Wilton NH 03086-5151 bob@wiltonae.com

I've converted my less than trustworthy 1936 Six voltage regulator to an electronic version – quite successfully – and am thinking about doing the same to my distributor. I'd be interested to hear from other forum members who have done the same and how it has worked out. Also, where did you get the unit and how easy was it to install? Thanks.

Working on a friend's '49 Nash Ambassador today that's got sticky valve problems. We noticed another problem though: several of the rocker arm spacers on the rocker shaft appear to be missing, so the rocker arms move sideways. Is this normal, or did the last guy in not replace some key parts? Can't find a picture of the rockers in the shop manual. If any one has a picture or knows what is normal on this car your help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Try Then & Now Automotive, 781-335-0536. Talk to Tom.

Sounds like a case of rotten wood in the door, a common problem with these cars. Have you checked for that?

The 2nd hose would come into the side of the head, left side, rear. You should have you temp sensor in there now. There would be a petcock on htr equipt car. I can send a pic if you need one.