Friartuck
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Posts posted by Friartuck
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Brushes hitting a tarnished spot on the armature? Lightly sand the copper segments on the commutator.
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Verify fuel delivery. There was an account of an early sixties Cadillac that had a speed issue similar to this one. After many, many , many months of diagnoses and parts replacement, it was determined to be two small dents in the fuel line. The spacing of those dents and the timing of draw for each stroke the fuel pump, interrupted fuel at the high speed. So verify fuel delivery, especially given a new plastic gas tank. Perhaps the pick up portion of the new tank was not drilled out enough? And is the new tank properly vented?
Could this be an ignition problem? Coil getting hot? Original Poster doesn't provide enough info on the vehicle configuration.
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One vote for wood, though a bare frame is not the same as a whole car body:
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46 minutes ago, certjeff1 said:
Just because the box auto parts store cant afford to stock the correct part does not mean that you should have to change. Find a source that does have the correct part.
This point can't be emphasized enough. Do the research and acquire the right stuff.
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What could you put on a rotisserie? T-Bird, Falcon, Lark......I couldn't resist.
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It depends on the trunk rack. I like to use Tee nuts sunken into the wood with machine bolts and flat stock perpendicular to the rack's cross members. I do this to minimize visual exposure when the trunk is opened. Some trunk designs use hardware on the side to secure it to the rack. I'm rebuilding a Packard domed lid trunk that employed angle steel into the side corners with holes for bolting to the trunk rack. I may not use them, looks sort of tacky. The elevator bolts or flat head screw method through the base can work with maybe a precovered piece of luan plywood as a cover over the bolts. Makes it look nice.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/how-to/trunk-pt-2-1.cfm
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/how-to/trunk-pt-3-1.cfm
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Ronnie makes a very good point that I overlooked, protecting the wire itself. So I'll revise my early post to a 12-15 Amp in line fuse assuming 14 gauge wire is used which would be realistic for a 6 Volt harness.
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Bloo said it. The instantaneous in rush current for a horn is large and could blow a normal sized fuse. There are "spring oriented fuses" to address this problem but they are usually used in AC circuits, not 6 Volt DC, so the answer is use a large size fuse, like a 20 Amp or 25 Amp fuse. The in rush current would be say 12-15 amps and settle at 6-8 amps., well below the 20 amp fuse size. As for what package to use, use the black phenolic (plastic) in line style screw together fuse holder, one that uses common size glass fuses. Suggest taking the time to solder the wire to the tip in the fuse holder. Makes for a nicer installation. You could use the blade type fuse and fuse holder but its not period correct. Suppose where it's located and if visible and your desire for appearance.
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John Wolf and Company in Ohio:
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Consider small amounts of lubricant at each of the spring clamps to prevent squeaks.
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Sometimes a bow is too far gone and its better to replace the wood bow altogether.
This is precisely what a Polol can do. https://www.polyall.com/
Available from Canada.
This article should help understand what a Polol can do. Unfortunately Kwik Poly is no longer available, but the Polyall 2000 should provide equal results
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/kwikpoly-1.cfm
Note the use of Pipettes to dispense in small quantities.
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Replace the sockets with two contact version.
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Adding diodes will not help. Check you are getting full voltage to the light sockets and check grounds, especially where and how the grounds are to the body. Also how the flasher portion is grounded to the body. Assume nothing. Run separate wire(s) as a diagnostic means to isolate the culprit. Let us know how you corrected the problem.
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There should be an intermediate swing bracket that will get mounted between the pitman arm and the light housing. Where the bracket gets mounted on the pitman arm will determine the amount of throw the rods will have on the light's arm. PM me and perhaps we can talk on the phone, I'm on the east Coast, available most days and evenings. Chris
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Do more research on using LED bulbs. There are special flashers that operate at the same cadence (flash rate) regardless of the amount of current being supplied to the bulbs. Some of the LED bulb suppliers also offer these special relays.
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Try typing in different years or different car makes into Auto Color Library URL: http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1928-Chrysler-pg01.jpg
This shows a Mexican Turquoise Blue.
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Auto Color Library used to show actual chips on their website. Perhaps emailing them with the paint code such as IM-606 Gettysburg Blue and they can email you the chip color.
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Assuming the system is in good working order, pedal moves freely, no obstructions on the rods, and return springs bring rods and cross shafts back to position. An important adjustment is the position of the wheel's lever. The Brake Rod should be slightly less than tangent/perpendicular (90 degrees) to the lever and when applied, the lever moves tangent (at 90 degrees) to the rod to provide maximum force to the lever. A common misadjustment is having the lever at 90 degrees when at rest and the lever goes beyond 90 degrees when applied. Every case is different, if adjusting the shoes can't make the lever in the correct position, it maybe necessary to move the lever on the shaft's splines one tooth to get it in the correct position, due to wear.
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If you need some product immediately, search under Equestrian suppliers for Hoof repair. In a year or so, any remaining inventory will begin to lose its shelf life, so be mindful of this when purchasing.
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I would not touch the drums. Use 80 to 150 grit abrasive roll (https://www.woodworkingshop.com/abrasive-rolls/) going back and forth like polishing a shoe to take down the 3/16 to fit. This would take down the new material as evenly as possible and not leave any high spots . Obviously wear protection while doing this.
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PFitz, Git Rot was not the product I was seeking. It has a total cure time of one week and doesn't have the low viscosity. No magic solution can replace good craftsmanship. If something is that rotted, it should be replaced. However, there are situations where some light damage (e.g. multiple nail holes from layers of upholstery) can be solved with an epoxy like product.
wmsue, Yes the product used in the equestrian trade for hoof repair is the same as Kwik Poly, just marketed differently. Some of that inventory is still available, however Kwik Poly has a shelf life of about 18 months. Part A hardens.
nickelroadster, Smiths and West are too thick (high viscosity) and long cure times (several days at best).
cxgvd, Your referral to Polyall 2000 sounds like the product. Its low viscosity of 1 centipoise (CP) is on the order of water (.89 CP) and short cure time in minutes and not days sounds like it will work for repairs I have mind. I suspect it too is a Polyol which will also have a shelf life. We'll have to try it and see.
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Using Polyols in restoration has a number of applications. I would encourage trying it and you'll soon find yourself using it many times. A good example is setting brass threaded inserts in wood when making custom trunks. Peruse the article I posted at Second Chance Garage.
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Folks,
For many years I've used an Epoxy like Filler and Sealer called Kwik Poly. It is a two agent solvent based Polyol, meaning it mixed with base and hardener in equal parts. The significant advantages were 1) its low viscosity, much like water where it would seep (wick) into the material such as wood fibers and when cured, would provide a significant bonding, and 2) rather quick cure time, approx. 5-7 minutes in normal temperatures. Dry fillers such as aluminum powder, saw dust, and colored pigment could be added to suit the task. When cured it could be drilled, tapped and shaped as needed. My article on KP: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public4/kwikpoly-1.cfm
Reinforcing weak wood and strengthening joints in seat frames is but one task where KP worked well.
Sad to report that Kwik Poly is no longer available. So the question for the group is there another product that can be used that does as described? The low viscosity is the main property to duplicate. Most epoxies can be mixed with dry fillers, but are thick. Suggestions?
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I too believe it to be 1917 Overland. Front bumper, wood spoke wheels and oval rear glass
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Blue or green film for backlighting gauges... what’s it called?
in General Discussion
Posted
Also try an Art Supply Store, look for Acetate.