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Gomer

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Everything posted by Gomer

  1. Well. It looks like it is in the engine. Removed the converter bolts and the noise is still there. would expect the flexplate to crank bolts would not make noise with no load on it. Also doesn't buzz when taped with a hammer so cracked flex plate is unlikley. Looks like im going to have to pull it apart. I will let u know what i find. Going to be a few days till i get to look further. Thanks for the help.
  2. I actualy had the flex plate replaced a year ago. I didn't do it so i wonder if the bolts are tight?? I guess if i unbolt the converter and the noise goes away that answers my question. I didn't do the flexplate due to not having the time to do it and also the trans needed some work when it was out. so i sent it off to the trans shop we deal with. Makes me want to go out there right now and check. Oh well. will have to wait till friday.
  3. I have removed the serp belt and the noise is still there. The noise is most noticable idling in park. (Quite loud) At first i thought it was the exhaust cross over pipe rear flange leaking but there apears to be no carbon trails around it or leak felt. I have used a camera to check for leaks on the bottom of the pipe. I am a red seal mechanic and i have all the tools to diagnose but i speichalize in Toyota, european and ford. The other mechanics work on most of the gm drivetrains so this is an area im not familliar with. I won't own anything but gm though. Im going to remove the tourq conver
  4. I have the wynn's 80+ additive in the car. Is this the additive you are recomending? The noise has gotten worse in the last 100 km or so. I did the oil change 500 km ago with the 80+ additive and did not see any metal in the oil. Can't realy go by the oil since there was no fillings in the trans sport's oil. Im going to pull it apart next weekend and see what i find. only $100 for gaskets if i don't find anything. Im also thinking i should uncouple the tourque converter and make sure it is in the motor and not the transmission. I will post pics of what i find.
  5. I have a 1989 reatta with 119,000 miles on it. I have had this squeek type noise for about 3000 miles now. At first it would come and go but has recently gotten worse and is now a constant noise. Apears to be comming from drivers rear of engine. Car is parked now untill i have the money to repair it. I have actualy recently repaired my parents 95 trans sport for what i think is the same noise. unfortunatly theirs got to the point of causing a missfire. What i found in the trans sport was the lifter roller on the drivers rear cylnder had a flat spot in it. I cant remember intake or exhaust) The
  6. Its been a long time since I have posted but I feel I should since I have had this same problem. By the pictures the front engine/transmission mount has failed causing the engine to lean forward. This causes the engine and transmission to drop down into the subframe inturn causing the inner cvjoint to contact the subframe when under accelleration. since the innner joint from my recolection is a tripod it will bang like crazy. If you look at the drivers side you should see a clean area on the subframe where the cv joint has been hitting. I hope this helps and its good to be back.
  7. Hey all. I’m hoping you can help me. I am finishing up my cam sensor replacement (magnet) and ran into a problem with the alignment of the crank sensor. It never hit before but now it just rubs on one side of the pickup. I checked the reluctor ring for damage or a bent tab but found nothing. It seems to hit on every one of the tabs on both rings. I tried moving it on the bolts to see if I could adjust it just a little bit but had no luck. There is a tiny bolt going through the bracket of the pickup that seems to have no purpose. Could this be the adjuster?? Any help would be great. It is a 198
  8. Whew. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Thank you.
  9. Just wondering if a 225/60/15 will fit my 89 Reatta(I want a little wider tire) I hope so since I bought them already. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Thanks.
  10. Gomer

    Hard starting

    I think i got it!!! Only 30 mins of work <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Started by checking fuel pressure. Turned key....Nothing! Cranked..... nothing! cycled key....nothing. Checked Pump by sending power down test lead. Pump works and brings pressure to 43. Turned key and engine starts and runs. Shut down. bleed off pressure and try starting again..... Nothing. Found wiring diagrams in service manual for 88.(took 15 mins out of the total 30) checked powers to relay. All looked good. Sent power to pump from relay connector. Pump starts up. 43 psi. T
  11. I hope someone can help me with this problem I am having. Car runs great but it?s getting it started that is the problem. I haven't done much in diagnoses yet but i thought i would run it buy you guys first. I now own an 89. It takes a good minuit of cranking and cycling of the key to get it started. I start cranking but no kick. I cycle the key a few times then it kicks once and dies. I then crank again and it doesn't even get a full revolution and it starts. No miss or anything. Just starts and runs fine. If i shut it off and leave it for a few minuits it will start up with no problem. I am
  12. Does it just die or does it seem to stumble then die? If it stumbles then dies i would suspect the EGR valve is stuck open. If you can get it to stay running for a few seconds (hopefully running badly) try tapping the base of the EGR. If it starts running better the EGR needs to be replaced. You could try cleaning it but i personally have never had any luck cleaning them. Good luck and i hope this helps.
  13. I have smoked a 1994 honda civic with $10,000 in engine mods. I know the guy verry well. I helped him do most of the mods. He was running his mouth saying he can beat my car any day. So we took it to a new development and had a good 1/2 mile of new pavment. No houses of corse. Lined up and off we went he beat me for about the first 200 feet. Then as you guys said as soon as it hit second all he saw was my tail lights. He clamed he missed a shift so we did it again and the same thing happend. Never underestimate a GM. Oh and my car is 100% stock. Well the trans is tweeked a little So i guess i
  14. When I picked up my car there was an 88 black Reatta. The interior was grey but it is in bad shape. It runs and drives but is just sitting in a barn. The owner is going to part it out. All the glass is good and the paint looks ok as far as I could see. Well I couldn't see much past the dust. If anyone needs parts in that area give him a call. The business is Miller Motors and there Phone # is 517-569-2000. Or e-mail him at belair@voyager.net. Ask for Dan.
  15. Gomer

    Door lock cyl

    I havent taken it to a lock smith yet but that will be the first thing I will do. This doesn't look like something I will be doing my self. Evan with everything out I don't see how my big hands will be able to get in and remove the retaining clip. This one is nothing like my 88 6000. Thanks for the help.
  16. Well after fixing the dimming problem I decided to tackle the door lock cyl. And now im here asking how in the heck you get to it to remove it. The cyl is jammed and the key won't go in all the way. Of corse I have got to have the biggest hands around so I can't just reach in and remove the retaining clip. Is this something I should get the dealer to work on, or is it just a case of removing a few things to gain access? I did a search and didn't find the answer i was seeking. I sware this is the last thing for a while. Thanks again
  17. Well I got it fixed. The sensor was bad. The only causality was the passenger side dash pad. For some reason my trim tools didn't damage it but my thumb did. We are going to try and cover it up but its not a big deal at this point. I just need the lights to work for the safety. Thanks for all of your help. The sensor was reading 16 at bright light and only 36 when in total darkness.
  18. I will try the test tomorrow. from what you guys are saying it realy looks like the sensor has given up the ghost. I know that the one from the parts car i have is good since the lights dim normaly. So after the test i will probably try and remove the good one and install it in the new car. I will let you know what happens. Thanks again.
  19. Thank you for the help. Im guessing that the sm grill you talk about is that little one in the center of the defrost vent cover? (dash) Just wondering where it is since my mitchel on demand doesn't show where it is. All it tells me is it is behind the dash. Of corse i will be pulling my parts car apart befor i do it on the good car. Thanks again.
  20. Long time since I have posted but I need some help. I just got an 89 Reatta and I have almost fixed all the little problems but one has got me. The dimmer doesn't seem to work on the dash. The lights for the buttons don't evan light up(wipers/head lights/center console). I have covered the light sensor during all of this but nothing. During the Light show when i first get in all the lights in the car work. We drove it back from Jackson(1100 miles) with the dash blinding us at night. I have replaced the head light switch (with a known good one) but I don't want to tear into the dash anymore wit
  21. Well my first car was a 1975 dodge dart. Wohoo. That slant 6 sure did go. NOT. Then I was given a 1974 ford country squire LTD station wagon by my great aunt. That thing passed everything except a gas station. I did love that car. Never left me stranded unlike the dart. Then came my Reatta. Great car to drive. I just wish our roads were in better shape so i could drive it more. Then I got my 1988 Pontiac 6000 wagon from my aunt. Good car but i have blown 2 transmissions and im now on my third. due to my last "car" my 1992 prostock. You have to look at the attached photo to understand. This was
  22. I'm sorry about my bad spelling. I can't spell very well at the best of times and being up for 19 hours doesn't help eather. I will try and use the spell check more. LOL Me fail English thats Unposable!!
  23. Ok I'm scared now!!!! I drove my parents Transport on monday last week to get there door Handel and window motor fixed. I came back to my Reatta dead so I charged it. On Thursday I drove the Reatta to my work to do the timing chain and guess what didn't work So finally tonight I looked at it and I think I found the problem. There is power to the module (one under the hood that would normally be the resistor block) on the orange wire (hot all the time) and the grey wire fluctuates when choosing speeds and going to off. Also when I jumper the Orange to the purple the fan runs. So I'm guessing
  24. Most of the factory turbo's I have seen bolt on after all the cylnders meet. That way all would have the same back presure. This one looks like it feeds only from the front 3 cyl. Wouldn't this cause the front cylnders to run hoter than the rear!!! I think that the supercharger is the way to go. Less power mind you but more reliable.
  25. I think if you remove the dipstick tube (usually one bolt) it will drain enough to be below the line. Also if it is only a Liter(quart) over I wouldn't worry about it. Actually on the early front wheel drive fords if you didn't over fill them they would burn out. At the trans shop I worked at for a year we were told to always over fill. It all depends on how OVER FILLED yours is. And why are we talking about fords here now??? LOL
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