DeSoto Frank

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Everything posted by DeSoto Frank

  1. Point taken about leaving some headroom in the top-tank. Believe the MM is popping from vibration as opposed to pressure... Don't get the geyser until a long pull... (another kettle of fish...) Will pull the whole thing and give it a good cleaning. Are there supposed to be any locking detents on the moto-meter lugs ? (Definitely not getting 1/4 turn out of it...)
  2. Have been reading Jim Schildt's "Model A Restorer's Shop Manual", and he makes reference to a Ford Motor Company service bulletin / instruction sheet for conversion of the trunk to a rumble seat from the Model A era... Apparently the floor pans and such were bolted to the body, as opposed to being welded ? Does anyone know if the Ford instructions are available on-line ? I'm trying to finish a conversion that was started on my '28 coupe... Thanks !
  3. I have found another little quirk as I continue my "shakedown cruise" of my '28 Ford Special Coupe... The repro Boyce Moto-Meter keeps popping open... not a huge deal, except that any coolant overflow tends to splurge all over the hood instead of going out the overflow tube. 50/50 does NOT make for a good windshield-wash ! Anybody else have this issue with their moto-meters ? Any tricks to keep them locked-down ? ( My issue seems to be confined to the cap and base assembly, not where it threads-on to the factory radiator neck. ) Thanks ! :cool:
  4. Dean H - VERY COOL !!! :cool: I would love to have a McCormick 10-20 or 10-30 some day ! ( On steel or rubber) I had an early Farmall A as a kid - crank start, mag-only... s/n FAA-1829. Tough old machine !
  5. Can anyone else tell if the runningboard splash=aprons have a raised bead or raised inset panel ?
  6. That's a BEAUTIFUL Phaeton, Paul ! From what I recall when I was running my '48 New Yorker as my daily driver, the spotlight was indeed brighter than my headlights ( sealed-beams )... The headlights on my '28 Ford are pretty good ( when they work ! )... I would consider a period "Sport-lite"...
  7. International also used a ball-bearing crank in its four-cylinder engines in the teens & twenties, one BB at each end - a "two-main" engine. AFAIK, these were robust engines, and IHC probably used the same construction in their agricultural engines. I believe Stutz also used ball-bearings on their four-cylinder mains... ? I think the issue had more to do with "crankshaft whip" at higher RPMs, due to lack of support at the center... maybe not an issue when engines didn't spin more than 2000 rpms...
  8. I took a close look at the re-sized photo, and the cowl lights appear to be the more conventional type "drum" cowl lights. The first time I looked at the original photo, I thought they were more like the nautical "deck vent" cowlights as used on Premier, Stude Big Six, and other early '20s cars... The strong shadow in the photo makes the cowl lights look like their rear side fairs into the cowl...
  9. Willys-Knight or Buick ? ( So, the initial photo was "stretched" ? That had me looking for huge behemoths ! )
  10. Locomobile 38 ? Locomobile and Pierce and Stutz were among the last US automakers to switch to left-hand drive, around 1920. John, not trying to be tacky, but were your grandparents "well-off" ? All the cars mentioned thus far were high-end vehicles, not cars for the middle class or hourly wage earner.
  11. I have recently been reading some 1920's auto advertising literature that refer to the aimable windshield-pillar mounted light as a "sportlight"... I love those "free-standing" running-board mounted spots such as Ivan mentioned... I believe I've seen a few of those on 1920's fire trucks...
  12. Bryan, I actually put one on my '48 New Yorker around 1988. It was a "vintage" Firestone spot with a 6 inch lamp. Afterwards, I regretted doing it, as I did not have a template, and put it too far up the A-pillar. It WAS handy, especially when I was travelling in unfamilar territory and needed to read street signs at night. They were a popular accessory up into the 1960's, and many car makers offered "authorized" acessory spotllights. These usually mounted to the door frame. In the mid-1950's, I believe Ford began combining the spotlight with a rear-view mirror. The fad that REALLY baffles me are/were "Dummy spotlights"... yes, lets drill holes in our cowl to mount two non-functional lumps of chrome... ?? !!! A friend recently bought a nice 1955 Hudson Wasp Custom 4-door that has dummy spots on it... I keep encouraging him to get rid of them. The police still have their cruisers equipped with 1950's style "Unity" spotlights, usually painted black as opposed to chrome plate. If you want a spot on your '04 Bonneville, I would go with the "flange mount" and bolt it to center of your roof, as they do on power and phone company trucks ! :cool: I don't think I would add a spot to a nice original car (again); by the same token, I wouldn't necessarily remove one that had been installed by the dealer / original owner, and had been done well.
  13. You beat me to it, Matt ! ( I don't think I've ever seen a RED Bugatti.... )
  14. DeSoto Frank

    OIL!

    And, just how many non-detergent oils "back in the day" had zinc in them ? The zinc issue seems to be the hottest topic since the "unleaded-gas destroys vintage valves" controversy that started about 25 years ago... Much of what I have been reading about the benefits of the ZDDP additive is that it is most relevant to proper break-in of new cam & lifters in flat-tappet engines. Apparently there were issues with some Detroit Iron leaving the factory with "soft cams" during the 1960's and '70s (?) and the ZDDP helped prevent early camshaft failure ("wiping"). I have been hearing that Shell Rotella diesel oil still has ZDDP ? I don't know how critical the zinc additive is to a 1960's Buick ? If it were my car, I would be running a quality 10W-30 or 40 multi-vis detergent oil. If the car has recently been resurrected from a long sleep or has only been driven once a week to the store and church, then I would add a quart of Marvel Mystery oil with the first oil change, and change the oil & filter after about 500 miles of driving, which should include several drives of at least one hour in legnth, to get everything up to operating termperature and keep it there.
  15. Actually, I think this was cut-down from a Tucker station-wagon... And here I always thought that Corvair made the first rear-engined pick-up ! Wonder if they'll find the prototype Tucker "Ute" for export to Australia & New Zealand?
  16. Nice car, Bill ! I'm quietly jealous... you have two of my favorite cars: first generation Chrysler touring and Packard "Twin-Six" ! :cool: About ten years ago, there was a Chrysler Club meet in Scranton, and I got the rare treat to drive :D:D a '24 Chrysler B-70 Touring - what a blast ! Hope to own a '24-'27 Chrysler 70 some day ! How'd the test drive go ? DeSoto Frank
  17. 1924 Cadillac 5-passenger Landau. The "bird" on the radiator is an aftermarket ornament.... My first thought was Chrysler, but the "loop" door handles and combination of oval quarter window and landau irons identify it as a Caddy. Wonder if they closed-in around the boom on the back, or just left a gaping hole in the coachwork ?
  18. Those cowl lights look very distinctive, similar to Premier ? Judging by the rear fender, looks like someone had a little diffculty getting through the garage door ?
  19. Guess it's time to pull-up the floor-boards and have a look... The brakes seem to be working fine... which is a good thing ! I've been pondering backing-off the adjusting wedges a notch or two at each wheel to gain a little more pedal travel...
  20. Still trying to sort out my "new" A.... Need to get the brakelight working. Car is equipped with the single "drum" stop/tail light on the left side. New wiring harness. Tailight works, but no brakelight. The brakes were adjusted prior to my taking delivery of the car; the pedal seems "high" to me, with only about 1.5" of pedal travel required to lock-up the wheels... Am wondering if there is not enough movement of the pedal linkage to activate the stoplight-switch ( early style, mounted to transmission). How much "free travel" should there be in the brake pedal ? Is there any provision for adjustment of the stoplight switch ? Thanks...
  21. DeSoto Frank

    OIL!

    Use the best oil you can get. Classification SM... multi-weight, detergent.
  22. Or "sympathetically restoring it", complete with red paint and an airplane tail...
  23. From an operational standpoint, as long the electrical components and wiring are in good condition, there's no difference between positive and negative ground - they both "work". Some of the early AC electric gauges ( 1930's) were magnetic, and might indicate "backwards" if the polarity were reversed at the battery... I've had no problems with the 6-volt positive-ground systems in my pre'56 MoPars... I believe there are inverters & converters to adapt negative-ground and 12-volt accessories to 6-volt positive-ground systems. Not sure I understand the advantage of changing polarity to negative ground if you're staying 6-volt...
  24. It was Clyde Barrow who wrote Henry Ford, complimenting him on building a good car. Not sure if it was Dillinger or another bank robber who liked the Essex 8 of '31 - supposedly it would outrun anything the police had, at least around town. As for the Dillinger coupe, the value (?) is in the provenance and association with the gangster. Public taste / fascination is a strange thing...