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DeSoto Frank

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Everything posted by DeSoto Frank

  1. I thought "nova" meant "new" in Latin... ?
  2. Martin - do the Hirsch units have the same rounded profile to the lens as the original sealed-beams ? How long have you had yours ? Are you happy with them ? ( Up until now, the only composite 7" "sealed-beams" I've seen have been the flat-faced Hella "Euro-style" lights, which look strange installed in a 1940's-'50s fender...) Thanks, De Soto Frank
  3. Jim, My mistake... just looked it up in Jim Schild's "Original Ford Model A"; the wagon was introduced around February of 1929 as a '29 model. ( I'm glad to find I was mistaken, as I prefer the '28-'29 Ford over the '30'31...) So, what makes the station wagon different from a Depot Hack ? I believe Dodge Brothers offered a Cantrell-bodied Depot Hack before 1920 ?
  4. Want to echo the suggestion to determine that it is a "true" Ford wagon... there have been woodie-wagon body kits around (Some of them very nice) for decades... Also, from a performance standpoint, the woody is probably going to be a lot more sluggish than your coupe, due to the weight of that wooden body. Also, the Model A woody does not have glass windows (except for the windshield), only side-curtains. Then there's the whole "condition" aspect... What model coupe do you have ? One final thing, IFRC - Ford didn't come-out with the station wagon until 1930. Do your research... Good luck !
  5. When you watched the video, did you notice all the deep snow on the ground outdoors ? :confused: No, it wasn't much of a "ride", but I can't blame them for not wanting to take the car outdoors when there's wet-stuff & salt on the ground. Seems like there's as much ( or more) provenance for this "Tucker" convertible then there must have been for all those muscle-car "clones" that were bringing six & seven figures at Barret-Jackson not too long ago.... :cool:
  6. Kaycee, Well, if you plan on having your car judged at an AACA event, you'd have to go with whatever plating was originally used by the factory. Personally, I prefer the appearance of nickel plate - it has a warm, yellowish color, as opposed to the cold blue tint of Chrome. It does require more frequent attention, alas. The changeover to chrome was gradual, varying from manufacturer to manufacturer... I believe GM went over to Chrome in 1928-'29; Ford in '29-'30, don't know about the others. Also, some cars probably left the factory with a mix as on-hand parts were being used-up (thinking of
  7. Broker Bob, When computer-controlled fuel-injection replaced carburetors on gasoline-powered vehicles (early 1990's), consumer gasolines were reformulated for peak-performance and lowest emissions when used in fuel-injected systems. One of the results was an increase in the volatility of pump gas ( its tendency to vaporize ). This is not in issue in fuel-injection systems which are "closed", and the fuel pump is located in the gas-tank, and "pushes" the fuel under fairly high pressure up to the engine; if you put a liquid under pressure, you increase its boiling point (same principle as the
  8. The comment in red is why we are supposed to change the oil frequently. ( It happens to Fuel-injected engines too... ) Would suggest that anybody who is reading this thread find a copy of : "Drive it Forever!", by Robert Sikorsky, S.A.E. This is a great book (less than 150 pages) that offers a LOT of science / research-based info on how to make your car or truck last as long as possible. It's easy reading. Vehicles that see long-trip highway driving ( the average trip lasts longer than 20 minutes, ensuring that the engine gets up to operating temperature and STAYS there for at least 15 minut
  9. Jeff, Sorry to hear you went to all that trouble and didn't like the results. On the plus-side, sounds like you'll be undoing mods that were "reversible" (bolt-on) in the first place. With everything in first-class shape, your Ford should be a very driveable car, just the way it left Dearborn. The '55-'56 Ford engine & tranny are strong and reliable, and the Bendix brakes are among the best of the era ( inexpensive to source too ! ). I'm still regretting selling my '59 Edsel wagon (essentially a rebadged '59 Ford)... I've been DRIVING 40-50 year-old stockers ever since getting my lice
  10. Neat video ! I saw this car at Hershey this fall, and was very intrigued. It would seem that the guys at Benchmark are finishing a project that's been 60 years in the making. Thanks for the ride, Chuck !
  11. Interesting... I managed to get a perfect score, which kind of surprised me, not being a "hot-rod guy" Was glad to see some less-common engines, such as the Chevy 348, Buick "Nailhead", original Olds "Rocket", Chrysler Poly.... Some were difficult to ID, with all the performance toys glommed onto them...
  12. Woody, I grew-up in Ellicott City, just a ways around the Beltway from you. Even though two feet of snow is kind of rare down that way, MSHA was never stingy with the salt. The roads may seem clear, but there will be salt residue into April. If you're really concerned and "must" start your collector car, I would suggest Dave's plan - start it up, let it run until temp needle hits its normal mark, then let it run another 15 minutes, at about 700-900 rpm. This will get everything good and warm, "boiling-out" the condensation and excess fuel that got past the rings while initially warming-up. R
  13. I would have qualified up until about ten years ago. All my daily drivers were at least 25 years old until I got married.
  14. Marvel Mystery Oil must have something good going for it, otherwise it wouldn't still be around after eighty-plus years.... " Marvel Mystery Oil - Honestly So " I had another thought about the purpose / efficacy of upper cylinder lubricators... Back in the good old days, when "someone had to milk a dinosaur to get a quart of oil", motor oils were single-weight, and non-detergent. They were usually thick, and didn't circulate until the engine was pretty warm... add to that engines operating at 160 deg F or less (so you don't boil-off the alcohol antifreeze), and you have the makings for a sl
  15. I have not run across any cars with a sediment bowl on the fuel tank, outside of Model T Fords. By 1940, most cars had a sediment(filter) bowl either on the fuel pump, or right before the carburetor. Possible fuel supply problems can include: - no gas in tank (gauge lies?); also pick-up tube rotted away, no longer reaching bottom of tank ? - blocked pick-up tube in tank (rust, water, ice ) - collapsed / deteriorated rubber flex-line at tank and/or at pump. - fuel-pump: bad diaphragm, check-valves blocked-open due to debris, bad gasket on sediment bowl - rust-perforated steel fuel line between
  16. I think one of the reasons Leno favors MMO or ATF is that he has had several engines develop problems with stuck valves in infrequently-driven vehicles due to varnish from the lousy modern fuels we are stuck with. One of his headaches involved a vintage Jag. I add a 50/50 mix of MMO & Sea-Foam to the gas tank of my Rambler at every / every-other fill-up. About 4 ozs elixir to 20 gallons of gas. I have always been told that MMO and the AMPCO upper-cylinder lubricators were intended to provide additional lube to the upper part of the cylinder, reducing scuffing, and also lubricating the v
  17. Thick single-weight oil in a cold engine, mean that the oil doesn't circulate as freely, nor does it get into all the tiniest bearing clearances until the engine / coolant / oil gets warm. That's why owners manuals suggested SAE 20 oil in warm climates, and SAE 10 (somtimes dliuted with Kerosene in really cold climates!) for cold climates. Trouble is, the lighter oils tended to leak-out / burn-off faster under warm-temperature operation. So, if you start something cold then immediately run it under full load, you're going to have accelerated wear due to insufficient lubrication. On the othe
  18. Don't know about the compatability; measure carefully before trying them out. If there's no clearance issues with the head, they will probably work; if they give a higher compression ratio, then your 8-N will have a little more power than stock. Shouldn't be an operating issue unless you're running distillate or kerosene in your tractors ! The N tractor engine was also available in the '40-'42 Ford truck, and is indeed basically one-half of a flathead V-8. I've also been told by old-timers that they used to use flathead Plymouth pistons in the Gravely model L walk-behinds...
  19. Careful using advertising artwork to guide a restoration ! Trust only actual photographs, and even then, double-check. The marketing artists created beautiful pieces for brochures, but often took liberties with scale , proportion, and color. Standard color for MoPar flatheads between 1934 & 1959 was silver for the block and head, and black for the "accessories" ( starter, generator, distributor, metal spark-plug wire loom). I have seen red highlighting on raised lettering on head, such as "Spitfire". I have a 241 cid Chrysler six from a '41 Windsor that is red-orange, but this was applie
  20. Can't drive the old iron... PennDOT's been flingin' the Car-B-Gone like it was Christmas Candy ! :mad: Happy Holidays anyway ! :cool:
  21. Gil, I don't want to cry poverty, but anything in five figures is beyond my means... That said, I don't want a perfect cream-puff that's "too nice to drive"... a 1940's-'60's resto or unrestored survivor ( fuctional ) is what I would want. A model T is probably the most affordable ( no pun intended! ) option for brass... I'm not silly enough to think that I'd get Pierce or Locomobile for less than $20k. I also think that the recent trend of muscle-cars and "clones" going for six or seven figures is absolutely ridiculous... by comparison, Brass and Nickel are a bargain. It just seems to me tha
  22. The tractor pistons may have a different "pin to crown height" for lower compression ratio; tractors were designed to run on low-grade fuels ( cheap!).... IIRC, CR on an N-model Ford tractor is around 4.5:1. Probably lower than the automotive version. Which engine are you trying to source pistons for ?
  23. Hmmm - that's the first I've heard of Rigolly and the Gordon-Brillie. As for a steam car being first to reach 100 mph, I'd bet the reference is to the Stanley Steamer streamliner that raced and tragically wrecked at Ormond Beach, Florida in 1906. ( The Stanley "Rocket" ? ) Supposedly the Stanley reached 106 mph before hitting a slight rise, becoming air-borne, then cartwheeling, killing the driver. Unfortunately, I don't think the speed was officially recognized.
  24. 8-volt batteries are a quick "band-aid" for other problems with the vehicle. If your starter / generator / regulator / wiring are in good order, a six-volt vehicle should start fine on six-volts. Search this site on the topic, you'll find lots of discourse. I've been DRIVING six-volt vehicles (mostly flathead MoPars) since I got my license, over 25 years ago, and have never had to resort to an 8-volt battery or 12-volt conversion.
  25. One thing I learned when riding my motorcycle with an open-face helmet for the first time: KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT !
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