DeSoto Frank

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Everything posted by DeSoto Frank

  1. Try searching on "car-part.com". Not many boneyards stock vehicles that are more than 10 years old.
  2. Hi Rhop, Was reviewing this thread, and I don't believe you made any statements that I would take offense from... I think I'm pretty-much in agreement with your original post... Sorry if any of my subsequent comments made it seem otherwise ! And I would agree that from a driveability perspective, there's a LOT less difference between riding in a 1960 car and a 1980 model, than would be found between say a 1930 and 1950 model car. The only "modern" ammenities missing from my '60 Windsor are AC and FM stereo / CD player... Cheers ! :cool:
  3. Summit Racing sells a 6-volt battery ??? I'd have never expected that !
  4. Generic replacement for Hupmobile ?
  5. If it is like the switch in my '36 Chevy truck, that bezel-ring with the two holes in the edge is a nut; the hole accepts the pin or lug of a spanner, and unscrews counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey). You might try grabbing it with a pair of channel-locks using a piece of inner-tube for padding and turning it off with that... DON'T SQUEEZE TOO HARD ! . There are no set-screws in those little holes. If you have an "Electro-Lock Pop-out Switch", there may be different proceedure. Suggest you try this question down at the Chevy Forum further down the menu or on the VCCA Chat Forum... Electro-Lock Switches are delicate due to their use of early pot-metal, and you may get some advice that will save you a lot of grief. Good luck !
  6. If the battery lives under the floor of the car, and you simply must have a battery on-hand when it first arrives, get a Group 1. This is the smallest six-volt auto battery, and definitely fits the "under-floor" battery "boxes" of Chevy cars /trucks thru 1954. A Group 2 will not. Would assume the Pontiac is pretty similar. As far as I know, except maybe for the "long skinny" six-volts, the terminals are at diagonal corners of the case, so there's no issues with "making sure the terminals are "in the correct place", like we have with 12-volt batteries ( Fords for example...). I've been getting my Group 1 six-volts from Sam's Club for the last 10-15 years, with good results - averaging three to five years (sometimes more) out of a battery. If you have a Tractor Supply Company or "big battery distributor" nearby, one them will have what you need. ( I know someone posted a chart with the battery dimensions by vehicle application; just making suggestions based on my experience with a couple of cars with "battery in the floor": anything larger than Group 1 won't fit. Maybe a '37 Pontiac owner will chime-in.)
  7. Tom, That '34 is too nice to restore. Is that a custom body? It has the appearance of a fixed top fitted to a convertible-coupe body... When I was about 10 years old, a neighbor who collected Packards treated me to a ride in his very nice, original '34 Packard 12 "opera coupe"( it had a back seat and quarter windows ).... I wish I had been a few years older, and could have better appreciated the car !
  8. Dave hit it: percolation. The WA-1 Carter is supposed to have a little valve-cap on top of the float-bowl that opens-up when the throttle returns to the closed position: this the "anti-percolation" vent. Make sure that it is open when the throttle is closed against the idle-stop screw, and that it closes when the throttle is opened. Also make sure the anti-perc vent passage to the float bowl is clear - it's the sort of place that insects love to build egg-cases in. Additionally, the Carter WA-1 has a metering rod that needs to be properly adjusted for peak performance / economy. If the carb has not been serviced recently, the leather plunger on the accelrator pump is probably fossilized and that will contribute to lousy acceleration (making you "feather the gas")... Good luck !
  9. Sure you could, laddie... Just run it through Barrett-Jackson ! ( Does Doc Brown come with it ? )
  10. I guess there's a part of our conciousness that doesn't like to acknowledge our own "getting older"... A car that's been a faithful member of the household can become almost a "cherished member of the family"... I can appreciate that aspect, even if it's a very personal preference. I have a great fondness for 1962 Falcons for the very same reasons... I'm sure there were / are many AACA members who shook their heads when "Post-War" cars became eligible for AACA judging... While my "favorite" antiques are Pre-War cars, especially Brass and Nickel era, I'm trying to relax a bit regarding "late-model antiques"... not always easy to do ! :cool:
  11. By that standard, NONE of my old iron are "antiques"... '64 Valiant Signet 200 convertible, '61 Rambler American convertible, '60 Chrysler Windsor, '55 De Soto... Not even the '41 De Soto or '28 Ford Special Coupe, as I do not have "antique tags" on any of them, nor do I plan on putting "antique" tags on them, as I find the PA antique plate too restrictive. ( No, I do not rely on them as "daily drivers".) All of them have been shown at AACA regionals... If I had a 1910 auto with a regular tag, would that too not qualify as "antique"... ? Even with an "antique" tag, a '73 Pinto ( or a 1985 Camry ?) wouldn't qualify that car as an "antique" in my mind...
  12. # 1 - '49 Plymouth ? #2 - Buick - '55-'57 ? #3 - '49 Plymouth ? #4 - Spotlight mount
  13. Definitely the bench seat of a four-door in the car in the photo...
  14. Let's not forget the Lincoln steering wheel, and aviation engine...
  15. Also, check with "The Filling Station" in Washington state... they do carry some parts for pre-'29 Chevys, and I think starter/generator/distributor castings are among them.
  16. The original GE's had the name "General Electric " spelled-out at the bottom of the lens, just inside the metal retaining ring. There were a run of GE sealed-beams in the '50s into the early '60s that had the GE "meatball" logo in the center of the lens... these would be too late for your Packard.
  17. Um, I think your F-1 should be positive ground; believe all six-volt Fords are. Your Coil hook-up should match the battery hook-up: If the negative battery terminal goes to ground, then the ( - ) terminal on the coil should connect to the distributor, and the ( + ) terminal to the ignition switch. If the positive battery terminal is grounded, then the ( + ) terminal on the coil connects to the distributor, and the ( - ) terminal to the ignition switch. Aftermarket coils are usually marked ( + ) & ( - ) so that they can easily be used in either positive-ground or negative-ground systems. You could simply reverse the connections on your original coil, but the "dist" / "batt" labelling might get confusing. Good luck !
  18. Is your original starter beyond repair ?
  19. I 'm not watching... been there, done that, moved-on. Maybe I'm a snob... frankly, I find even Dennis Gage annoying.... I'd much rather listen to Leno talk about cars... I'm not a sports guy, so I have to ask: are sportscasters just as irritating and vapid as some of us find the faux gearheads at B-J ?
  20. I believe a t-shirt I saw someone wearing as they strolled the swap meet at Macungie sums it up: "I buy junk and sell priceless antiques" Technically, by AACA and most state DMV's, once a vehicle is 25 years old, it can be considered an "antique"... Any vehicle or other item with some feature that makes it distinctive or unusual could be considered "collectible", regardless of age. "Old" could be that no-mans' land between "lost its gloss" and "antique" Beyond AACA and DMV standards (which are fairly indisputable: either a vehicles is 25 years-old ( or older), or it's not... therefore, it's an "antique" or it's not.), these terms are incredibly subjective - ask 10 different people, you'll get 10 different views on the topic. "Antique" can be considered purely a factor of age: if anything (or anyone) hangs around long enough, it is considered "antique". "Collectible" is much more subjective.... if one person collects a certain make / model , say 1950 Ford Tudor six-cylinder strippers, does that mean that particular car is "collectible" ? Certainly not in the same sense as Tri-Five Chevies, '64-'66 Mustangs, or even 1950 Ford V-8s.... Most people would say that all "Super-Sports" are "collectible".... "Old"... I don't know... anything that's not new ? "Junk" is more a factor of condition rather than age... if you're talking about the flaking hulk of a 1919 Overland, that's been laying in a New England forest since the Coolidge administration, all its wood gone, engine hopelessly weathered, many parts missing, it's probably "junk", or close to it, even though it is also "antique" and possibly "collectible".... In the world of antique cameras, you have the name-brand stuff that brings bucks: Nikon, Contax, Leica, Voigtlander... then you have that area of "Collectibles" , which encompasses stuff that's "neat" , or "quirky", or "wierd", etc. that is not particularly valuable, but still has some appeal.... Your '67 Mercury convertible certainly qualifies as "antique", might be "collectible" ( I don't know when or if I've seen one), if it's in nice condition, that probably swings it towards "collectible"; if it's a really clapped-out jalopy, then maybe it's just "old"... ? Personally, if I can remember a vehicle being on the road as a "new car", I will always have difficulty accepting it as an "antique"... so for me, that means anything 1970 or newer... ( no Vegas, Gremlins, Pacers, Camaros, Pintos, Firebirds, Matadors, etc...)
  21. There's another Rambler running around with it's lettering transposed to read "MARBLER"... I think it might have been written-up in HCC in the last year or so... Those Nash-Rambler guys are a witty bunch, you know... :cool:
  22. Wonder how much $$$ is invested in it at this point... ? I wonder if the owners figured, "hey, if they are knuckleheads out there willing to pay seven figures for a 1970's muscle-car "CLONE", what could we get for a "prototype" Tucker rag-top?" ?
  23. And don't get ME going ( again ) on "sympathetically-restored movie cars "....