DeSoto Frank

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About DeSoto Frank

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  1. Try searching on "car-part.com". Not many boneyards stock vehicles that are more than 10 years old.
  2. Hi Rhop, Was reviewing this thread, and I don't believe you made any statements that I would take offense from... I think I'm pretty-much in agreement with your original post... Sorry if any of my subsequent comments made it seem otherwise ! And I would agree that from a driveability perspective, there's a LOT less difference between riding in a 1960 car and a 1980 model, than would be found between say a 1930 and 1950 model car. The only "modern" ammenities missing from my '60 Windsor are AC and FM stereo / CD player... Cheers ! :cool:
  3. Summit Racing sells a 6-volt battery ??? I'd have never expected that !
  4. Generic replacement for Hupmobile ?
  5. If it is like the switch in my '36 Chevy truck, that bezel-ring with the two holes in the edge is a nut; the hole accepts the pin or lug of a spanner, and unscrews counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey). You might try grabbing it with a pair of channel-locks using a piece of inner-tube for padding and turning it off with that... DON'T SQUEEZE TOO HARD ! . There are no set-screws in those little holes. If you have an "Electro-Lock Pop-out Switch", there may be different proceedure. Suggest you try this question down at the Chevy Forum further down the menu or on the VCCA Chat Forum... Electro-Lock Switches are delicate due to their use of early pot-metal, and you may get some advice that will save you a lot of grief. Good luck !
  6. If the battery lives under the floor of the car, and you simply must have a battery on-hand when it first arrives, get a Group 1. This is the smallest six-volt auto battery, and definitely fits the "under-floor" battery "boxes" of Chevy cars /trucks thru 1954. A Group 2 will not. Would assume the Pontiac is pretty similar. As far as I know, except maybe for the "long skinny" six-volts, the terminals are at diagonal corners of the case, so there's no issues with "making sure the terminals are "in the correct place", like we have with 12-volt batteries ( Fords for example...). I've been getting my Group 1 six-volts from Sam's Club for the last 10-15 years, with good results - averaging three to five years (sometimes more) out of a battery. If you have a Tractor Supply Company or "big battery distributor" nearby, one them will have what you need. ( I know someone posted a chart with the battery dimensions by vehicle application; just making suggestions based on my experience with a couple of cars with "battery in the floor": anything larger than Group 1 won't fit. Maybe a '37 Pontiac owner will chime-in.)
  7. Tom, That '34 is too nice to restore. Is that a custom body? It has the appearance of a fixed top fitted to a convertible-coupe body... When I was about 10 years old, a neighbor who collected Packards treated me to a ride in his very nice, original '34 Packard 12 "opera coupe"( it had a back seat and quarter windows ).... I wish I had been a few years older, and could have better appreciated the car !
  8. Dave hit it: percolation. The WA-1 Carter is supposed to have a little valve-cap on top of the float-bowl that opens-up when the throttle returns to the closed position: this the "anti-percolation" vent. Make sure that it is open when the throttle is closed against the idle-stop screw, and that it closes when the throttle is opened. Also make sure the anti-perc vent passage to the float bowl is clear - it's the sort of place that insects love to build egg-cases in. Additionally, the Carter WA-1 has a metering rod that needs to be properly adjusted for peak performance / economy. If the carb has not been serviced recently, the leather plunger on the accelrator pump is probably fossilized and that will contribute to lousy acceleration (making you "feather the gas")... Good luck !
  9. Sure you could, laddie... Just run it through Barrett-Jackson ! ( Does Doc Brown come with it ? )
  10. I guess there's a part of our conciousness that doesn't like to acknowledge our own "getting older"... A car that's been a faithful member of the household can become almost a "cherished member of the family"... I can appreciate that aspect, even if it's a very personal preference. I have a great fondness for 1962 Falcons for the very same reasons... I'm sure there were / are many AACA members who shook their heads when "Post-War" cars became eligible for AACA judging... While my "favorite" antiques are Pre-War cars, especially Brass and Nickel era, I'm trying to relax a bit regarding "late-model antiques"... not always easy to do ! :cool:
  11. By that standard, NONE of my old iron are "antiques"... '64 Valiant Signet 200 convertible, '61 Rambler American convertible, '60 Chrysler Windsor, '55 De Soto... Not even the '41 De Soto or '28 Ford Special Coupe, as I do not have "antique tags" on any of them, nor do I plan on putting "antique" tags on them, as I find the PA antique plate too restrictive. ( No, I do not rely on them as "daily drivers".) All of them have been shown at AACA regionals... If I had a 1910 auto with a regular tag, would that too not qualify as "antique"... ? Even with an "antique" tag, a '73 Pinto ( or a 1985 Camry ?) wouldn't qualify that car as an "antique" in my mind...
  12. # 1 - '49 Plymouth ? #2 - Buick - '55-'57 ? #3 - '49 Plymouth ? #4 - Spotlight mount
  13. Definitely the bench seat of a four-door in the car in the photo...
  14. Let's not forget the Lincoln steering wheel, and aviation engine...
  15. Also, check with "The Filling Station" in Washington state... they do carry some parts for pre-'29 Chevys, and I think starter/generator/distributor castings are among them.