Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by keller

  1. Turbo Regal Web Site Dedicated to the maintenance and performance of Buick T-Types. Grand Nationals, and 1989 Turbo Trans Ams powered by the Buick 3.8 turbo motor.
  2. Why not just buy one? 1984 1985 1986 1987 Buick Regal Grand National Turbo T T-Type GNX MACHINED BILLET ALUMINUM GREY HORN RING #1518
  3. Southern California. Not a Limited. Well aware of the 1035 of those. Almost bought one in '91. Sadly, too many miles. And cigarette burns. But it was the ultimate in stealth. Why didn't I think of looking in there? I never took the wrap off my 6th edition! Thanks!
  4. Likely correct. In fact, from what I can garner from the dealer Selling Manual and such, it appears that you could order everything piecemeal (340 V8 w/4BBL, GS hood, etc.) and have it come that way from the factory. The California badges were added by the the southern California dealers, and the GS badges on the C-pillars were likely to have been as well. The rest of the car was pretty much the same as a GS-340, save for color, and no rocker stripes. And I have don't have the black base bench, but the dual shade metallic blue one in my car. Well aware. Sadly, you can get repro Mustang "California" badges, and 68-69 GS "California" badges, but not 1967 ones. :mad: One of mine is cracked, and both are severely pitted. Other than the small interior accent(s) (steering wheel color in my car) and the JA badging (including one tail light with the JA logo instead of the GS or LS) they were very similar to the Olympic editions offered in 2001. Color schemes as well.
  5. FWIW, turbobuicks.com may be turning into a pay site. Don't forget about Turbo Regal Web Site Lots of instructional articles and a forum as well. Not to mention a vendor list. And it predates all of the other mentioned sites.
  6. My BCA membership is up for renewal and I believe they have messed up a few of the model codes for my cars. I really want things to be accurate, but I have forgotten where to find / ID the correct information. Can anyone help me out here? 1) 1967 Skylark California GS - Car is correct and unrestored. Just not in 100% great shape. Even have the black CA plates that were last on it. Also have a few dealer books, brochures, etc. Plus a copy of an ad for the model. Although these have the 340 V8, they are built on the V6 Skylark post coupe body. As such, the VIN is a 43307 VIN. However, BCA assigned it a 44607 number, which is a GS400. What should I write down? 2) 1987 Regal T - Has the turbo engine as well. (Optional in 1987) BCA indicates 4GJ47 and I think this is correct. 3) 1989 Reatta - With sunroof. BCA indicates 4EC97. Think this may be correct. 4) 1989 Reatta - No sunroof- See above. BCA does not have recorded for some reason. 5) 1996 Roadmaster Limited Wagon - BCA indicates 4BR34. Is this correct for the wagon? 6) 2001 Regal GS Joseph Abboud Edition - No idea what the code would be for this. Should I be looking on the RPO / body tags for this information? Thanks for any help.
  7. FWIW, that list appears to be pretty new. Several codes I know by heart (i.e. LC2 = 86/87 Turbo Regal / GN engine, LM9 = 84/85 TR / GN engine, N89 = 86/87 T wheels) are already re-used for other things in that list. So I expect that other codes are re-used for other items as well. If you want to see a list that is likely more in step with the Reatta era, try Buick Turbo Regal Option Codes (Regular Production Options - RPO) (at the bottom). See if that is more in line with what you expect.
  8. Need a motor and trans for the conversion? This is it! Fully operational. Car it is in just had an unfortunate encounter with a Corolla moving about 40 MPH. Drives fine. Goes straight. Did not get to the wheels at all. My loss is your gain. Don't ship a motor and trans home; drive or ship it home! Oil changed with Castrol Sythetic every 3000 miles. Lot of maintenance items done recently. No better setup for your transplant. I'd considered doing it on one of my cars, but my "more used" Reatta will probably be sold soon, and the "less used" one is a 60k mile jewel that can't be modified. Don't let all my recent work go to waste. All offers considered. Interest in a (wrecked) '98 SC Riviera? - TurboBuick.Com
  9. I'd really like to see someone benefit from all the work I just put into this. If it goes to the insurance company, besides me getting little for the car itself (yes, I still get a settlement) all those new parts are flushed down the toilet. It will go to a yard and just be picked over and yanked apart. I'm in a condo and don't have the room to disassemble a car here. Certainly someone can make good of this... Interest in a (wrecked) '98 SC Riviera? - TurboBuick.Com All offers considered.
  10. Will one of these fix a screen where the bottom area gets a little "saggy" after a bit of driving, or is that a power supply issue? :confused:
  11. Can the all the indicated pipes be used in the Reatta app as well? Or are we only discussing the muffler here?
  12. Shocked that none exists. We'll see how quick things happen given weather, other commitments, etc.
  13. Already had that panel off, so it was easy to check. Fuse is fine. Guess I'll be going underneath.
  14. As expected: - Pump does not run - Does not run with 12V applied to terminal either (green terminal, grey wire) - Testing resistance on the running car shows low resistance and applying 12V to the 'test' terminal makes pump run, as I would expect. Testing resistance on troubled car shows very high resistance (and its increasing until eventually showing infinite), plus applying 12V does nothing. Switching relays between cars changes nothing. - Tried to check fuse for giggles. "#8" appears to be a 3A and not for the FP/INJ circuit. All 15A fuses do not appear to be related by description. Regardless, all 15A are fine. I suppose the harness near the pump should be examined as a final exercise before the tank comes down. But so far it looks like the pump. A few quick questions: - What is the fuse in this circuit labeled? - What is its location in the panel?
  15. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It appears you have ignored good advice offered by two other members but I will also try to help.</div></div> Would those be both the one that told me to ground the test connector <span style="font-style: italic">and</span> the one that told me to hit it with V+? Going to have to side with Mr. Padgett on this one. Since this car hasn't moved any further than the driveway in a year or so, I somewhat doubt that there are any wiring anomalies that have crept up. No mice in the garage that I'm aware of. While I'm well aware of offshore Walbro pump clones in other applications and other horrid cheap fuel pumps, are there any specific bad experiences with the Bosch? I'll report back tomorrow.
  16. I've verified that the BWD R3074Z (non-sealed relay) I have functions as well with a power supply. Actuates, at least. I picked up a Bosch (69222) pump and strainer, as well as a Purolator filter. I've read the horror stories about no-name pumps, but I I feel that the Bosch was a solid choice, immediately available, and actually reasonably priced. Plus, I'd like to get this done before the weather gets evil again. In case it really isn't the pump, where is the electrical connection for the pump hanger? Under the car? Want to test things before I drop the tank.
  17. Just verified that the original relay 'clicks' when tripped by a 12V supply out of the car. Didn't check the other side of the circuit, but at least that is a good sign for the relay. GM still carry these? I'll try to test the circuit in the car. Still could be the pump.
  18. Have already tried another (non-sealed) relay that came up as a direct exchange. The pump did not activate at key-on either. I'll try to check things with a meter. Looks like I might be in for a fuel pump.
  19. I'll have to check the schematics. On the other GM cars I've used these connectors on I've always had to apply +12V to get the solenoid to activate and the pump to run. Thanks for the lead on the location. I'll poke around tomorrow.
  20. I was going to pull my 'beater' high mileage '89 out of the garage for some pics so I could get it registered for collector insurance. Well...it would not start. I quickly determined that the pump was never doing the 'prime' sequence at ignition on. I did a few cranks, and it did not run either. Probably not enough cranking to generate enough to run the oil pressure high enough to trigger the backup circuit. (I believe it has one, right? My '87 turbo Regal does. Haven't scanned my manual yet...) I did check the fuses that I presumed were relevant. All were fine. I also grabbed a relay (sadly, not a skirted/sealed type) and that made no difference. The manual indicated there is a test/prime connector underhood, but I could not find it and I was tired of freezing in my garage. Sooo... - Do these cars really have such a test/prime fuel pump connector, and if so where is it? My info indicated somewhere near the fusebox underhood. - Other than the FP fuse and/or relay, anything else I should check before I get ready to buy a pump and drop the tank shortly? Only have a few decent weather days this week. Hope this won't be a big PITA. Already want to sell this one. May start grumble about parting it again...
  21. Contact "Electra" Jim at electrajim@hotmail.com Helped him do just this back in...oh...the mid to late 80's. The car started out running 14's with his first motor. Now runs low 12's with his 2nd motor. Has worked through several different trannies, rear ends, carbs, cams, intakes...has it all figured out. Drop him a line and he'll help you out. Tell him Scott sent you.
  22. Bugger...someome went and did it. And just a few months after I sold my wrecked L67 Riv...but picked up another beautiful '89 Reatta. And its not red, either! What was the L67 motor out of? I assume you're using the stock PCM for that car?
  23. Anyone have a source or partnumber for the hoses for all four corners?
  • Create New...