gungeey
-
Posts
1,365 -
Joined
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by gungeey
-
-
Congratulations, looking forward to pictures 👍
-
2 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Better offers available else where. Show us what you have to show. How about what your are runnin’ on your ride. You only run one thing and that is your know it all mouth. You have not one thing to show. Prove me wrong. Put up or be quiet. You have cockeyed opinion, but no work, no investment, nothing but empty words that back nothing. All talk, no testicles, and probably not a dime to invest in a Riviera. Show us one thing Buick you’ve put together that has been constructive. Just one.
Later Gator
The Turbinator
Bob, good to hear from you, but why you being a such a brown-noser? 😂 You must want those "free" a/c parts that all you have to do is pay for shipping and a small handling fee
-
20 minutes ago, 1912Staver said:
But in order to get that price you have to take all 5 off his hands at once . There is always a catch.
Guy I know heard a rumor that there was a price drop since. The farmers daughter is sick of looking at them.
-
1
-
-
It's not going to come out like "old faithful", more like a "babbling brook"
Are your lifters installed?
-
Dave, I know of no such manual. There's a recall on the headlight visors is about 40 pages. Sinceyou have 2 relays. The update has been performed.
If you're visors remain open or closed connect a jumper wire from +batt to to the wire from the relay to headlight motorby separating the connection at the splash apron(valence) behind the grill on the drivers side. Touchhot leaf to each inner prong. Action now at the motor shows likely relay trouble. No action indicates motor trouble.
-
Not familiar with your exact engine, how about pumping oil with an oil can down the hole that feeds oil to the rocker shaft from the top. It should drain down. If it dont then the cam bearing is installed incorrectly and blocking it.. just a thought.
Also, It can take a while to fill oil galleys. But you don't want to keep testing by spinning the oil pump as you will wash away your assembly lube on the crank journals.
I would call the rebuilder to alleviate the concern
-
Although the car in question is surely not 19k, the thought of a 50 year old car still wearing original tires as a testament to its low miles is just as far fetched.
With all that said, tires prior to radial were typically rotated not in sets of 4 but included the spare in a tire rotation so all 5 wore as a set. Based on that even if I see a new "never hit the ground" spare in the trunk of a given car my thought is that it, too, has been replaced.
-
How much more foolproof could the Buick factory make it in 1964?
-
1
-
2
-
-
21 minutes ago, Bob Ziff said:
This is a follow-up to a previous post. At Hershey, I gave Jim two Studebaker Avanti valve covers for plating, along with $500.00 cash. I received them back in March, but the plating is so bad that they can't be used on a car, they are worse than when I gave him the covers. At this point, I will have to get them replated again.
That's a real shame. You know chrome is bad when glaring defects show up in a picture. Sounds like no recourse, either
-
11 minutes ago, Donzi Dan said:
Hello Jan, Doors first then the fenders. The doors must align with the top of the rockers and front of the rear fenders. Then you can align the front fenders to the doors. The only watchout I have so far is there isn't anything to align the front top of the doors such that you can ensure proper gaps between the front fenders and cowl. Also, my car has what appears to be factory shims on the front two pairs of body mounts. I put those back in but now it looks like I may need to raise the front mounts on the inner fenders. Once I get it all sorted, I'll post more. And hopefully there are so tricks others may know.
As the others have suggested I am rebuilding my hinges, They all feel serviceable. But the first I took apart is pretty worn out.
I would definately without a doubt do fenders then doors.
-
2 separate, Bill. The weatherstrip run gets screwed in much like the A-Pillar, the drip rail clips on by pressure onto J shaped steel at the end of the roof sheet metal
-
1
-
-
I will add that since doors are off it's a perfect opportunity to address worn bushings in the hinges (especially the drivers side). Taking out the slop will make alignment easier and permanent.
-
1
-
-
17 hours ago, PauliusB said:
Thank you for your insights! Apparently, the crank is done... It had already been resurfaced to 0.020" by previous owners and they wore it beyond 0.040" limit (on 2 journals) according to the machine shop. Any recommendations on what to do next? I've heard there is an option to resurface a crankshaft in some shops, where they add a new layer to the journals so that they are back to factory parameters. Is it a reliable option or the crank might become more fragile after that?
Another option is of course to buy a new one, but so far it's been pretty tricky to find one. I can only find performance cranks with 3.625" stroke, whereas stock is 3.400". Just a random thought, would a crankshaft from 3800 fit my 231?
Starting to become really frustrating..
I find it odd your machine shop measures 2 bearings with a gaping 020 wear yet the other 2 are in or close to spec while you're getting 7lbs of pressure at hot idle.
If you get a replacement crank your rotating assembly would need to be balanced. That's a complete teardown. A lot of cleaning, inspection for further damage and wear... and it goes on.
It really depends on your long term plans for the car, I think the most cost effective solution is a salvage yard engine
-
1
-
-
Cliff notes: No insurance in a Mack truck with cobbled together brakes.
Stay tuned.
-
1
-
-
Period magazine ads, factory sales literature helps. Observe the wheel cover in regards to its placement in the wheelwell.
It seems in most mid-50's to mid-60's American cars the rocket panels were parallel to level ground.
-
1
-
-
Resolved.
My brother has the same tool, says I can have it since he's no longer in the hobby.
-
4
-
-
24 minutes ago, EmTee said:
Am I wrong or with a couple options does that tally up to about 800 smackers with round trip shipping and 2 new speakers?
-
17 hours ago, atencioee said:
I want to upgrade the components inside my radio / sound system, such as adding a working AM/FM radio, auxiliary port, possibly Bluetooth and USB, and overall better sound while I keeping my original radio to maintain the original look. I'd like to be able to control those new components with the old knobs slash push buttons of the original radio.
Also, I don't know whether I can restore the speakers with equipment to handle the wattage of a new system or if there are modern speakers that look like the old speakers.
I'm also wondering what this thing (pictured) is and how it functions with the original stock radio and if is needed for the upgraded components or should be bypassed? If bypassed, is an amplifier needed for a upgraded system?
Also, how would upgrading the sound system impact the battery, alternator, and fuse? Would I need to make modifications to those?
Any guidance, recommendations, businesses that do this, or helpful info would be much appreciated.
Gene (from Colorado)
Looks like your window channel run is leaking
If it is, I would make that a priority over a sound system
Tip: if you're one that likes washing your car frequently (I'm not), use Painters Tape around the whole rear window, sail panel and upper door brightwork while washing. Use compressed air to get water out from behind all that trim immediately. The water just sits in those areas. Water is like acid on old cars.
-
1
-
1
-
-
15 hours ago, atencioee said:
@DShoes and @gungeey, by adding an amplifier, did you have to upgrade your alternator or anything? Did you go with a different fuse? My original sonomatic in my 64 Riviera runs on a 5 amp fuse. What are some changes I need to do if I'm planning to upgrade my sound? I want to keep the original looking radio while upgrading the components by adding blue tooth, am/fm radio, auxiliary port, usb. I really only want to put speakers in the original factory locations (front speaker in the dash, and rear speaker between back seats). Also, there is a box located in my trunk...I don't have a clue what it is. I posted a pic of it above this post...looks like maybe the original amplifier? Do you guys know what that is? Any helpful info would be appreciated.
Your reverb unit should have a chrome bracket and knob, I believe, that installs on the lower dash above the gas pedal ( great spot for patella slices in an accident🥸) If it's complete you can help subsidize your stereo project...
As far as what your current electrical charging system will tolerate, well, there's not a lot of headroom. Like you said, there's 5 amps allotted for the factory radio. You can likely upgrade to 7/8 amps no problem. So, a run of the mill modern stereo unit would pass muster. You probably have a 61 A alternator. enough for a radio, headlights, A/C, and a momentary power window adjustment or brake light to all make it simultaneously. That's what the factory allotted for.
Getting into amplifiers, a subwoofer etc. will require modifications. A more powerful alt will require a solid state regulator and upgraded charging wire at a minimum. 100Amps and above will have an internal regulator, then some rewiring so your ALT light works properly. No big deal, we can offer guidance if you choose that route.
There has to be a run of battery cable to the area of the amplifier and an inline fuse at the beginning of the run in case of an accident. See pics below. The 6g wire is my alternator. The 4g Brown wire runs to the trunk for a 4 channel amplifier. L R and 2 channels are bridged to power a small 8in subwoofer. The inline fuse tucks up under the fender lip with industrial velcro. As you can see the junction block is pretty stuffed at this point
You also have to plan where to route the wires depending on your ultimate placement of the components. If done haphazardly you can create a lot of ground noise in the system.
Here's a retailer that will have a lot of good tutorials and insight in planning you project: www.crutchfield.com
PS I like the idea of the factory unit with upgraded guts, I think you would need an electrical engineer background to build it though 😆
-
1
-
-
Even 215 75 15s slightly rub
-
-
3 hours ago, EmTee said:
I'd try adding a nut and washer on the exposed threaded section. Use the nut to push against the turnbuckle adjuster. Or fabricate a replacement for that turnbuckle adjuster using a pair or nuts & washers with a spacer in-between. I think it can be saved!
I think you're right, that would work. I think I'd take a lot of enjoyment from the hobby, though, if I had to roll my eyeballs at myself, trying to get a wrench on an obscure nut in order to save 20 or 30 dollars for a proper tool.
Enough of my life is held together with paper clips and bandaids already 🤣
-
I got this belt tightener from jcwhitney 40 out so years ago. (Probably the only good thing from them I ever got 😂 ).
I've worn it out on the AC/alt pulleys of 63-65 nailhead engines. The threads in the turnbuckle are going bye bye.
Looking for an exact or similar replacement has been for naught.
What are others using? Thanks, Steve
-
24 minutes ago, cjp69 said:
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1969-buick-riviera-gs-bend-or-2776936#&gid=1&pid=2
1969 Buick Riviera GS Hardtop. Restored to Exacting Standards. Stunning Sunset Silver Metallic/Black Vinyl Roof with Black Vinyl Strato-Notchback Front Bench Seat. 360 H.P. 430-4 V-8 with TH-400 Transmission. Factory A/C. 78K indicated mileage. Full Power Equipment. Tilt Wheel & Speed Control. AM-FM Stereo. "GS" specific alloy wheels. Factory dual exhaust. Retractable Headlamps operate as designed. Owned for 20 years by original purchaser & in a Private Collection since 1989. Original Owner's Manual & keys are included. Shown by appointment, weather permitting. This spectacular 1969 Buick Riviera GS has to be Seen & Driven ! Located in Bend, Oregon $35k
It even comes with keys?!?
-
1
-
How do you get to Hershey?
in Buick - General
Posted
In answer to your question: I take back roads
As far as the editorial, why not post some pictures.. you can get your car judged online here free of charge as you sit on the couch 🤣