Restorer32
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Posts posted by Restorer32
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I will post your request on the Professional Car Society forum.
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Trippe lights of this type are very neat but apparently they were never a factory option on any American car during the Classic era. I could be wrong but I've never seen a factory photo of a car with these bumper bracket mounted style Trippes nor have I ever seen a factory accessory catalog showing these. The '32 Packard Accessory catalog shows a "Trippe Light" but it is mounted above the bumper on a cross shaft in similar fashion to the Lorraine Light. i would be happy to be proven wrong!
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Apex does not have anything very close to the originals. They also only sell thru distributors. A closer perusal of the McMaster Carr Catalog found ones very similar to the original. Look for "Retainer Weld Nuts", also called "Bridge Weld Nuts". Why they couldn't group them with their other speednuts, cage nuts etc., I have no idea.
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Sometimes it's a case where someone is simply tired of searching for a particular part or perhaps tired of paying their restorer to search. You will often find that overseas buyers will pay more when they come across a part they need due to the difficulty of searching for American car parts in Europe. I have paid more for parts than what they were worth on occasion just to get on with the project. It's a tough call sometimes, especially when you're spending a customer's money. If they are not able to search for parts themselves and they have to pay someone to do it, it sometimes makes sense to pay what may seem to be an inflated price. Sure, the part you need will likely show up again at a better price, but will it show up before you absolutely need it? All that being said, $300 seem like a h*ll of a lot of money for a license plate surround!
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I even met a fellow once who collected Studebakers!
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I had a customer years ago who brought us a pair of front fenders from a Model A that he wanted painted. He had labeled them left and right and ask us not to get the labels confused. He didn't want to run into problems remounting them. I'm sure we could have billed him for muffler bearings, smoke shifters, tin worm repellent or Model T brake linings and he would have never known the difference.
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Only car my Mom ever owned was a Chevette. Absolutely the poorest built car I have ever seen, bar none. It disintegrated sitting in the driveway. Parts would deteriorate and literally fall off the car. Mechanically it wasn't so bad, it kept running, more or less, but it was determined to recycle itself. AT 12000 miles it was literally used up. Chewing gum under a desk will last for decades but the plastic on this car rotted faster than it could be replaced. I think the seats cracked immediately upon their first exposure to sunlight and the sun visors automatically came down at the slightest bump. That was bad because the only thing holding the headliner in place was the sunvisors and a few lengths of duct tape. Still, I wouldn't mind seeing one at a show, it would bring back memories. Let's face it, many cars from the teens and twenties were no better designed and no better built than this testament to Detroit's arrogance.
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For a '33 V12 Fleetwood limo we need a water pump packing nut, outer runningboard trim (about 56", two air cleaner assemblies that sit on top of the air cleaner "plenums" mounted on the firewall, dash insert trim surround pieces and likely other bits and pieces as we put together this var which came to us disassembled. Thanks!
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By my serial # book it would be a 1930 Model S. Certainly worth saving.
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1932 Packards (and other years I think) have a similar option. By turning a lever on the steering wheel a vacuum system is brought into play that literally sucks the clutch pedal to the floor any time you lift your foot from the accelerator. Drift up to a stop sign, change gears without touching the clutch, advance the accelerator and the clutch slowly engages. Works better in theory than in practice, apparently. Difficult to adjust properly. Wasn't freewheeling outlawed in about 1933?
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They're not trippes.
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Yes, if he has at least 1/2 of each bow in good enough condition to determine the curvature and cross section of the bows. If he has one side of the irons we can make new in stainless steel. Nothing particularly complicated about this top. We steam bend our own bows in oak as original.
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I've made them in the past but no longer have the patterns. Also made the irons in stainless steel. If he can secure the loan of patterns I'd be happy to bend them up for him or maybe Oak Bows has patterns?
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The original pump has a chrome air chamber on top and as you know it is very visible when you open the hood. I've sold several of these pumps over the years and if I found one for under $500 I would consider it a bargain. Be careful though, inside the thing there is a very delicate die cast affair that holds the valve in place. This crown-like part is often broken. Good luck!
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I have a customer with just such a room off his living room. Large French doors on one end. Keeps his '21 Rolls Royce Ghost in it. Those of you in the Philly area may know him.
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Very true Wes, after working on this stuff for a few years your eye goes right to those incorrect items. Too many years at it and you start to obsess about the details. Had a customer call me once from California complaining that the rivet heads on a set of phaeton top irons I had made for him were 20 thou too big.
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You have an AC replacement for the original? If so it was likely made by Gould. He used to (and probably still does)take AC pumps and install a new activating lever to adapt them to the Packard engine. Not original but looks somewhat similar. You'll lose points if you show it, but perfectly reliable. I loaned him an original pump from which he patterned his laminated activating lever. This would have been in the 1980s.
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Ahhh...memories. My brother almost headed out on a road trip to look at a Ferrari that one of Mom's elderly friends had told her was stored in her shed. Further questioning revealed that is was a Volare.
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Not all road trips turn out badly. I was telephoned by a lady offering to sell me an old car trunk in excellent shape at a very reasonable price. She said it had a tag on it reading "Oakland". At the price she was asking I figured even an Oakland trunk was a good buy so I drove the 50 or so miles to look at it. She met me at the door and immediately began apologizing for luring me there under false pretenses. She had looked closer and realized that the "Oakland" she saw was actually just on the attached shipping label while the trunk itself in fact had a blue emblem reading PACKARD. She offered it to me at half price since it wasn't really the Oakland trunk she had promised. I told her that I would gladly pay her full asking price. I know, 50 miles doesn't really qualify as a road trip but good story in any case.
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Any info is appreciated, even that which adds to the confusion. The car came in with nearly new 33x6's mounted but they just look too big for the car and the customer wants to go with something a bit smaller so I suppose 600-21 is the way to go. Need to find matching rims first. Thanks for all the help!
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We did a good bit of work prepping a '32 902 for a CCCA show. The owner did not want the cigarette lighter to be wired due to safety concerns. CCCA checks the operation of lighters. What to do? With a tiny bit of orange/red paint we painted a nice glow on the element and dirtied it up with a few ashes. Judge pushed in the lighter, waited the appropriate amount of time, pulled out the lighter and ok'd its operation.
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For a real eye opener as to how engines were actually painted at the factory talk to Joe Vicinni about his years with Chevy, including '57 I think. I attended his seminar. He says the engines were painted with carb and manifolds attached with only a piece of cardboard held in the painter's left hand used to mask the crab, manifolds etc.
headlight lense needed
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
Found a good pair several weeks ago but will keep your info on file for the next tme. Thanks!