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Frank Tate

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Everything posted by Frank Tate

  1. Sorry, I just saw this. You are looking for part numbers B7A 16796 A and B7A 16797 A, the RH and LH hinges without springs. It doesn't look like they are reproduced, so I would check Hemmings or maybe try this craigslist ad: https://richmond.craigslist.org/pts/d/and-1957-ford-thunderbird/6550261482.html to see if they have some used ones available. I used Search Tempest to check Craigslist for that: https://www.searchtempest.com/search?location=21035&maxDist=2000&region_us=1&search_string=1957+thunderbird&keytype=adv&Region=na&cityselect=zip&page=0&category=8&subcat=pta&minAsk=min&maxAsk=max&minYear=min&maxYear=max&q=1957+thunderbird++inurl%3A(pta|ptd|pts) Good luck Frank
  2. Dropped the Transmission off for a rebuild with a local guy because it is the Fordomatic....air cooled! I figured that even though I had the manual, it was better to have someone with experience do it rather than me learning how now at the relatively young age of 60. Hahahahaha! ?
  3. And deciding I needed room in the shop, I thought what better place to keep the engine, than in the frame! So, after 3 or 4 careful hours of manuvering, I managed to get it in the frame without any injury! Now back to clean up and paint.
  4. And the backing plates cleaned and blasted. So now I get to pick which backing plates to use.
  5. Well, after several fun filled days cleaning front suspension components, here is where I am: Right and Left A arms cleaned and blasted. Spindles cleaned and blasted.
  6. You mean after going in and having a hot toddy????? ?
  7. Early Supers had a flat windshield, but from 73 on, I believe, it was curved. All Supers have a macpherson strut front suspension and all regular beetles have the torsion bar front suspension. That is why I think that one is misrepresented.
  8. Passing is good. I don't think that is a Super Beetle based on the front suspension, so I think the car is being mis-represented. Pan replacement is not difficult and you can buy virtually all the sheetmetal, but you will definitely be in it upside down financially.
  9. Hey Larry, Sorry, was visiting relatives up in Canada and didn't see this until today! Just responded to your post in your thread. Craigslist ad from a guy in my neighborhood, no less! Frank
  10. Just did a quick search and here are a couple. https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html This one has a universal Ford: http://www.enginedolly.com/engine-cradle I just used a regular engine stand I bought off craigslist
  11. I think you are correct Roger. The right side was wire brushed and the left was blasted. Here is the EvapoRust treated part after sitting overnight. It certainly was easier to do a quick rinse and scrub with a scotchbrite! I am not sure what that discoloration is on the right side, but will see if it will come off with the wire brush. Looks ready to paint or powder coat.
  12. So, here it is cooking And here it is done with the bath. And here it is after some quality time with the blast cabinet and a wire brush. I took one upper A arm inner shaft and blasted one end and wire brushed the other. It took about the same time. I am not sure which is better. I have the other inner arm in EvapoRust. I will post that when I pull it out tomorrow!
  13. Hi Ric, I haven't covered it in my posts, but it is pretty well covered on youtube. It is very simple... you fill the tank with water and add washing soda....NOT baking soda. I got mine from either the Ace hardware or the Giant grocery store. Rig up some steel for your anode. I initially used some scrap 1/4" plate but that made a rusty scum in the tank so I switched to 1/2" carbon steel welding rods. Hook up a battery charger with the + to the anode(s) and the negative to the cathode (rusty part) that is suspended in some way. Turn on the charger so that you have about 4 to 6 amps draw and let it cook. Because my A arm was so rusty, I have cooked it about 12 hours so far. I will check later today and post results. Frank
  14. Hi Andy, I think it is a breather/overflow. Check out this ebay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-CRUISE-O-MATIC-AUTOMATIC-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-390-OEM-1965-65/253020582208?hash=item3ae933b140:g:pwwAAOSwA3dYbair Frank
  15. Well, things are going slowly. I finally got the derusting tank set up and have started on the lower A arm from the passenger side. While it is cooking, I am going to throw some smaller parts into another tank with the Evapo Rust and see how long that takes. You can see what I am starting with above and here is where I stand now. The carbon steel rods really make the solution a lot cleaner. Much less orange sludge/crud.
  16. I like Accessible Systems...pricey, but it looks good to me. https://www.accessiblesystems.com/
  17. Still cooking along Bernie! It looks great. Do you do anything to the U bolts after you clean them up to keep them from rusting?
  18. Unfortunately, in addition to the need for the large hole in the ground, there was also the propensity for the hydraulics on them to leak. Which required environmental remediation. Just slightly expensive.
  19. Ahhhhhhh. The trials and tribulations of the impecunious enthusiast!
  20. Well after much scraping and wire brushing and 1 can of gunk engine cleaner and the pressure washer, here we are. Now for disassembly and rust removal. This is slow going!
  21. You are correct on my vintage Bernie, however my 55 TBird was/is indeed a basket case. Definitely no offense taken and I can feel your pain to a certain extent. I do realize I am lucky with the aftermarket support, but finding some TBird specific parts has been a bit of a challenge. Since I am a cancer survivor my attitude has been that I can't afford to kick off with my projects undone. With respect to your scrubbing issues, you seem to clean up just fine in all the pics I have seen! And the Mrs. lets you back in the house!!
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