lrlforfun

Turbinator: I have had several First-Gen Rivieras that the A/C blew ice cubes like being in a wind tunnel. This is what I'm trying to re-create. When the system is holding pressure we're gonna determine what parts to get and start sourcing them. What can be more fun, a 64 Riv that runs very strong and everything works nicely? Don't answer that. haha Mitch

Drew: Almost gloss black. I have had several 65 Rivs with original spares which showed this finish. For some strange reason a 64 Riviera has a gloss finish that is of much higher quality. Yes, rattle can it , jus do a nice job on the prep and you'll be fine. Mitch

John: The best you can do ius polish the living daylights out of the chrome. You could get lucky. Mitch

Turbinator: The car is at the transmission shop now and he's wrapping that up. He's started the A/C. Close to a nitrogen charge and then we're gonna make a laundry list of A/C items after that. Hey, we're close!! Mitch

I'm finally putting together something I started a long time ago. This 64 Riv is a factory A/C unit and everything was removed from the engine bay concerning the A/C and wiring. We are close to assembling all components and leak testing the system. My questions are...... 1. Is the A/C heater control valve the same as a non A/C unit? 2. Are the other components different from A/C and non A/C? Here's what I need for now and I might be adding to this list. Heater control valve. Horn relay by the horns. Relay by the heater blower motor. Plastic vacuum tank by the heater control valve. Any help sourcing these parts is appreciated, Mitch Castro Valley, CA

Ritz: Get the paint code off the firewall and I can tell you lickety split what the original paint color is. BTW we are pushing 2,500 members and it the place to be for a B-60 peron. . Mitch

Here are pictures of the grommets/bushings I need. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Mitch

That's a nice presentation. There's always gonna be guys with deep pockets that want cars like this. Y'all seem to be quite experienced. I'm gonna guess that it will bring mid 30's. A great car to either blow apart or just knock a few rough edges off and enjoy like that. Mitch

I've done a 64 custom and 65 Standard. I did NOT choose to put the emblems back as my elbow was getting scraped from the contact. The tape on a 65 Custom is a challenge. Mitch

John: No, the bushings that connect the lineage. Picture coming tomorrow. Thanks, Mitch

Are there any leads for a grommet/bushing kit for the 64 Riv transmission linkage? My car's going on the lift again next week and to have these parts would make life a whole lot easier. Any help or leads is appreciated. Thanks, Mitch

Some of the Chev guys are on a mission to add every possible option and accessory known to their car. Me and the Rivs? I can see adding a few things that could add some enjoyment such as.... AM-FM, full tint, rear arm rest, tilt, power seat. Would I? If I had only one car or two, why not? Mitch

UPDATE....I have reduced the price to $5,000. Thanks, Mitch

Here's a black/white top burgundy interior 90 Reatta convert for sale. 94K, looks and runs good. Needs a little here and there. I'm asking 6K or best offer. I would consider a trade for a 60 Buick, a 66 Wildcat or Le Sabre or a First-Gen Riviera. Location is Castro Valley, CA in the San Francisco Bay Area. Hit me up and let me know what you think. THIS VEHICLE IS FOR SALE !!!!! Thanks, Mitch

Will: I have purchased several of the Clark's cardboard door card backings. They are fantastic, reasonably priced and pretty much flexible as far as standard, custom, crank or power windows and the pins vs clips which many upholstery shops use. I have your front fender moldings (haven't forgot!!). Mitch

Tom: Could be. Up/down, `12 volts. Check the factory part number to know for sure. Mitch

Tom: No gott but....it may be the same as a wagon switch. Mitch

Alight: Looking at the cap the valve stem hole is at 3:00. The R is level, the spinner bars are horizontal facing 9 and 3:00. . Don't worry about stripping the threads as I have rarely done it. Get the 12:00 and 6:00 screws in and finger tight. Look in the center cap back to make sure the holes are lined up then sinch 'em down, just not with all your might. When they're snug, not tight give the spinner ring a couple of good shots with the rubber mallet, then sinch 'em down. WA-LA/ I use a wire wheel acid to clean everything. Spray on, let soak for a few minutes and use a detail brush to agitate, then rinse. Befre putting everything together spray the cap with a ceramic detail spray, agitate with #0000 steel wool and wipe off. This gives more protection than a paste like Flitz or Wenol. The spokes? Just steel wool and rinse, they'll sparkle. The chrome center cap and spinner, the same. I can do these in my sleep. I listen to my favorite daily podcast while I'm working on them and the time flies buy. Mitch

Ron: I have done at least 200 of these hubcaps. Tools needed are a 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 4" extension and 1/4" socket and a rubber mallet. 1. The short spokes go in first. Start by putting them in so the first spoke is on each side of the valve stem hole. The center area should be caught in the lip of the ring. If they are too long use a rubber mallet to tap them more securely into the holes. 2. The center cap is indexed. The tall nub needs to be at almost 11:58 of the valve stem hole (at 12:00). Place the center cap on. Start the baby screws a few at a time and tighten gradually. Give the center cap a couple of love taps with the rubber mallet and finish tightening the 8 screws. When they are all tight and you've tapped it with the hammer it should be secure and ready for the long spokes. 3. Start with the valve stem hole at 6:00. Start the spoke going in the middle of the valve stem hole and the "V" part should be resting in the center cap over the hole. Repeat all 12. if they protrude give them a tap with the rubber mallet and use pressure to get them to rest in the center piece 4 The "R" spinner bar faces 3:00 with the valve stem hole at 3:00. It has 4 longer screws. I start with the top one and try to get it started with the spinner in place. You'll have to look to make sure the hole is in alignment. Next, do 6:00 (bottom spinner female). When they're secure then do the other two. You may need to use the rubber mallet if there is no contact between the screw and the hole. Button 'em down and y'all are good to go. Remember if you mess up one step it will make for problems further down the assembly process. Hope this helps, Mitch

I like the gas tank. If it were electrical ...no. It's a fuel delivery problem. Blow air through the hose that goes into the fuel pump to the back of the car with the cap off. I guessin' it's the problem (restriction in the sending unit). You mentioned the choke so that's out. While you're there make sure all fuel hoses are new with fresh clamps. Mitch

Dean: If having the correct bolts is that critical you may consider sourcing a klunked out 401/425. They are usually pretty cheap and you'll have almost everything you'll need. Mitch

Sonny: I have a beautiful one. NOT perfect, just extra nice! $250. I'm in Northern California and do NOT ship so if you had a pal who could get it here or close It's all yours. Mitch

Brian: I'll give you a hundred million dollars for that car! Mitch

Gene: if they're not too pitted I'll take 'em. Would you have the clips too? Mitch I'm in 94552

Paul: 64-66 have an R. Interchange? The 63 has 3 1/4" end screws on the spinner and the silver Tri-Shield. The chrome center piece has 6 screws. 64 and newer have 4 spinner and 8 centerpiece and they do NOT interchange. I've put 100 of these together and that's how I know. The silver Tri-Shield medallion can have a rubber backing piece although most don't. Mitch