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sndtubes

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Everything posted by sndtubes

  1. Ken, No, it does not boil over. However after pulling some long hills it was getting close, like 200 degrees or so. It will happen especially after driving a few miles on the interstate at 45 or so and then getting off the interstate, it will reach near boiling. I was overfilling the radiator because of the overheating problem and it was overflowing but not boiling. After letting it seek it's happy level, it has not overflowed. I am using SAE HD 30 oil. Should I use something thinner while the engine is "tight"? I asked the rebuilder this and he said no, I should use 30 weight. I am usin
  2. Ken, Thanks for the info. Actually I figured out the overfilling problem. The overflowing situation happened exactly as you described. I just let the radiator overflow until it "seeked it's level". Now it does not overflow. A few months before I rebuilt the engine, I had a new radiator core installed . The old honeycomb radiator was just too plugged up to work anymore. I used a modern core as I don't show the car and I really didn't care there was a slight difference in the look. It was supposed to be much better at cooling and quite a bit cheaper. Only an expert would know it wasn't "
  3. Oops, sorry about asking about how to get rid of the air pocket. I re-read Straight8's post. However, I'm not sure that this applies since this is a non-pressurized system. Incidentally, we have drained the radiator once an tried to flush out the system in case it was blocked from crap from the rebuild (didn't see anything). I don't think we would have had an air pocket twice.??
  4. Hi Guys, Well I'm going back to the rebuilder on Tuesday. I just took the car on a 100 mile trip Friday (I didn't actually intend to drive that far, something unrelated came up). The car just doesn't run like it used to. It didn't overheat but it did get hot when I was pulling hills on the interstate (195 deg F). It would cool back down when going down the hill. It used to run 55 to 60 with ease and would pull hills at 45 or better (high speed rear end). Now it slows down to 30 to 35 on hills. I'm becoming very suspect of the valve timing. I'm wondering if the rebuilder got the timing
  5. Thanks for the additional tip. I think there is something much more serious going on. There may be some sort of blockage in the water flow. The water will sometimes "back up" into the upper radiator tank and start running out the overflow without the engine even being in a "hot" state. Also, when I was driving it yesterday, the valves started hammering all of a sudden. After pulling over, the water was running out of the overflow big time. The car was showing about 180 degrees, nowhere near overheating. After waiting a few minutes, the car was fine again. So long as I drove it real easy
  6. Thanks for the info., Bill. Yes I am starting to think it is just that the engine is tight, although tmain and rod bearings were "fitted" after align boring. It already seems to be running a little cooler. It is mainly pulling long hills at highway speeds that causes the "hot" condition. It isn't overheating anymore, just getting hotter than I would like. Another contributing factor is that I was going faster than I realized. The car has a high speed rear end in it which causes the speedo to read incorrectly. I had a "ratio box" made for it which I thought corrected the speedo. I was w
  7. I just finsihed a complete rebuild of my 1930 Buick model 46. I'm having a problem with it tending to run hot and eventually overheat. I've flushed the block and radiator. (The radiator is new). I've made sure the timing is correct. I've cleaned the radiator fins. Is this because the engine is fairly tight or does anyone else have any ideas of what might be causing this?
  8. I have a 1930 Buick and I drive it quite a bit. I just rebuilt the engine and I'm very uncomfortable with the stock air cleaner. Has anyone used any other kind of air cleaner with success? Has anyone tried filling the original canister with something like scotch brite pads or something similar? Or, should I just leave it alone?
  9. Hey all, I am in need of a couple of parts for my 1930 Buick Model 46 Bus. Coupe: 1) A good brake drum that isn't warped. I have one that I that I can't get to stop pulsating. 2) A couple of good, straight wheel rims 3) The exhaust diverter valve and the crossover pipe to divert the exhaust gas to the carb. This is the valve at the front mounted between the manifold and the exhaust pipe. Thanks in advance for any help any of you can give. My email address is sndtubes@vacuumtubes.com
  10. Hey all, I am in need of a couple of parts for my 1930 Buick Model 46 Bus. Coupe: 1) A good brake drum that isn't warped. I have one that I that I can't get to stop pulsating. 2) A couple of good, straight wheel rims 3) The exhaust diverter valve and the crossover pipe to divert the exhaust gas to the carb. This is the valve at the front mounted between the manifold and the exhaust pipe. Thanks in advance for any help any of you can give. My email address is sndtubes@vacuumtubes.com
  11. I have a 1930 model 46 Business Coupe. It is a "driver", not a show car. I have kept it pretty much stock except I have installed 3.55 gears in the rear (Joe Krepps). I drive it A LOT. However, my baby needs an engine rebuild which I will do this winter. Too bad, it runs great and doesn't knock. The oil pressure goes way down after it warms up as the bearing clearance is in excess of .004". I'm sure I'll be begging for advice when I start tearing it down..... thanks all. Mike
  12. Hi Everyone. I have listed on Ebay a 1936 Buick Radio which is totally original and totally complete. The item number is: 2495463247 (Links don't apparently post well here). I'd be keepin' it if it would fit my 1930 Model 46 Coupe! thanks, Mike
  13. I have a 1930 Buick model 46 bus. coupe. I have some problems with the front end vibrating at 50 mph or so. I'm sure the rims aren't running true. One of the back wheels has an obvious wobble. Does anyone have any suggestions to get these wheels running true? Oh, the wooden spokes are tight. thanks, Mike my direct email address is sndtubes@vacuumtubes.com
  14. Try Joe Krepps. You should be able to find his contact info in the past few Bugle issues. I bought a set of high speed rear end gears from him for my 1930 Model 46 and they work just great. I get about 10 mph more given the same engine RPM which allows the car to travel 50 to 55 mph very comfortably. Which model 1930 do you have? Mike St. Louis, MO
  15. Hey thanks everyone for your input. Yes I have considered that the car is not really safe over 55 mph on anything but straight, smooth roads. The brakes are now quite good after a complete overhaul of them, and the steering is up to 1930 standards which isn't saying much! The car does seem pretty comfortable at 50 to 55 mph which I would guess is probably just fine, so I'm giving up on the overdrive for this car for now. I am now thinking that since I've changed the rear end ratio, that in order to not lug the engine, I'd have to drive 60 or more in overdrive which just wouldn't be safe. I
  16. Hey thanks for the tips. In theory I would agree with you. However, in practice, I think the car could handle an overdrive still. It seems that when I get to 50MPH or so, I'm ready to shift gears again. The engine is racing pretty good at that point. I'm sure, of course, I'll be shifting out of overdrive to go up hills, but on relatively flat surface and down hills I think an overdrive would be great. I did find that Gear Vendors can do the job, but it's about 4 grand and I'm not sure it will be worth that much to do it.
  17. Hey everyone, I have a 1930 Buick Model 46. I have installed 3.5 rear end gears, but I think the car still could benefit from having an overdrive installed. Does anyone know if this can be done on torque tube car such as this, or anyone who could do it? thanks Mike
  18. Does anyone know if Buick had a radio or heater available for 1930 (factory option, not aftermarket)? I have a 1930 Model 46.
  19. Hi Everybody. I have a 1930 model 46 Business Coupe which I am doing a mechanical restoration on. The carb. heat valve is missing and even though I don't plan on using the carb heat, I do want the original parts there. I also need good, straight tire rims for 19 X 550 tires. thanks in advance for any help. Mike
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