Jump to content

sndtubes

Members
  • Content Count

    94
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sndtubes

  1. I have a 1930 Buick. I've posted here before about overheating, etc. One of the problems I solved was that if I filled the radiator too much, it would foam and run out the overflow. The solution was to just not fill the radiator much over the coils. I was talking to a friend of mine and he mentioned he had exactly the same problem with his 1929 Buick. His solution was quite interesting and I wanted to run it by you all before trying it. He put some Rug Doctor anti-foam agent into the radiator and can now fill it nearly completely without it foaming and overflowing. This stuff is used to k
  2. I have a 1930 40 series (46 coupe) and all of a sudden my headlights don't work. The car has been re-wired and they had been working fine. I can't seem to find the problem. The relay doesn't actuate at all. However, the parking lights do work. Any ideas? Anyone have any ideas of where to get a new switch or relay? thanks Mike
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bruce (aka) brh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You may find the premium fuel does not help. I had trouble with this on my 65 never experienced vapor lock. I will spare ya the entire story but my problem was a partially plugged radiator. When the car started to overheat, it simply would not start, car would begin to run like crud in bumper to bumper then when she cooled off like majic it ran O.K. Took me forever to figure this one out. She burns premium. </div></div> Very intere
  4. Mark, Thanks for the info. I'll certainly look into all of those things. The tank has had the "tank re-nu" process, so shouldn't be a problem. The fuel pump has been rebuilt with a nitrile diaphram. I wonder if replacing the steel lines with rubber ones will help? The lines get pretty close to the engine down by the fuel pump, so I will try to re-route them some to get them as far away from the engine as possible. Also, another thing I tried is switching to premium fuel. In some states (and I'm not sure about here) all grades have 10 percent ethanol except for premium. Maybe it's the a
  5. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mrpushbutton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A friend who works as a fuel compatibility engineer for Ford, who is also into old cars swears by it, with some scientific reasoning (you'll have to ask him). My cars are form the 50's -60's I don't have this problem. I worked with a very experienced antique car mechanic who insisted that vapor lock was a myth, an old wives tale. He insisted that what people were experiencing was (OE mechanical) fuel pump heat distortion that was breaking the prime
  6. Well, I just went on my first tour with the 1930 coupe. (Tour with the BDE). We went to French Lick, IN. It is about a 270 mile drive each way. All in all I put about 1200 miles on the old jalopy. It really ran well with the exception of a couple of instances of vapor lock. I've never experienced this before. Are they any "tricks" that anyone knows of to prevent this problem? Of course, it was pretty hot out; about 92-94 degrees. For those of you who have followed a different thread of my overheating problems, I am happy to report that problem is now very minor. Only a couple of times
  7. Fred, I've gotten my fluid at Bob's twice. Both times it went clear on me within a few weeks. I talked to another company that repairs gauges and they claim their dye won't turn, so I'll buy some from them (much more expensive, though). I'm going to replace the line and make sure the cap vents and the vent is open at the sending unit on the tank. thanks, Mike
  8. Has anyone actually gotten their KS fluid gas gauge to work properly? Mine will register some, but usually falls as soon as I come to a stop. Leak in the line somewhere? I will install a new line soon (I have one) but I don't think that will change the fact it seems to read backwards. It seems to read higher when the tank is near empty than when full. Also, I've had bad luck with the fluid they sell at Bob's Automobilia. The stuff won't stay red. It turns clear after a very short time. I'm not sure where he gets the stuff, so I'm not sure what the other suppliers are selling.
  9. Has anyone actually gotten their KS fluid gas gauge to work properly? Mine will register some, but usually falls as soon as I come to a stop. Leak in the line somewhere? Also, it almost seems as if mine works backwards. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> It seems to read higher when the tank is near empty than when full. Also, I've had bad luck with the fluid they sell at Bob's. The stuff won't stay red. It turns clear after a very short time. Does anyone know of a different source for the fluid that doesn't turn?
  10. Fred, Well, it wasn't the 5.50 X 19's that were too big. It was 5.50 - 6.00 X 19's that were too big. A mechanic friend of mine who was mounting them told me they were bulging out too much at the rim. They really didn't even look right mounted on the car. They were waaaaayyy taller than the tires I was replacing. I thought that they should fit as the car calls for 5.50 X 19. I have found some Lester 5.50 X 19 and also some BF Goodrich 5.50 X 19's. I'm going to try to get the Goodrichs if I can. It will depend upon what Universal will do. Interestingly enough, I was at a friend's pl
  11. Mark, You know I was wondering about that. My car may have been sitting for a long time before I got it, but in the last 5 years it has not sat in one place for more than a few weeks at a time. How in the world can I fix out of round wheels? Do I need a whole new wheel, felloe and spokes, too? How do I determine if it is out of round? thanks Mike
  12. All I can say is I just spent nearly 7 grand on overhauling my 30 Buick engine. I'm gonna spend the few extra bucks for the additive.
  13. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know how much the 30 model 40 business coupe is supposed to weigh? The guys at Universal told me these were rated at a maximum of 3600 pounds. </div></div> According to <span style="font-style: italic">The Standard Catalog of Buick</span>, 3600 lbs is the weight of the car. </div></div> Woah. Gee, thanks. These
  14. Does anyone know if there is something available for the early 6 (1930 standard)? It isn't listed in their catalog.
  15. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Michael, I have the same tires on my 31 Buick for over five years (except they are 18"), and they all look OK. I also have two older spares in the shop that have a different tread pattern and they look OK too. I'd say you found a defect. What tire pressure have you been running? Maybe too much or too little pressure could cause the separation? </div></div> Mark, well, I run the recommended pressure which, I think, is about 32 pounds. They've always held ai
  16. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Michael, I would be real worried about a tread separation if you are driving at 50 mph. A tread separation could really mess up a fender. </div></div> Fred, Well, I'm not driving on the bad tire and I'm not gonna drive much until I get them all replaced. Have you seen this before?
  17. I have a 30 Buick Business coupe with the same carb. My car would hardly run with the carb as it was. I sent it to a guy called "The Old Carb Doc" in North Carolina (Jeff Dreibus). He was reasonable and did a great job. Having the carb rebuilt made all the difference in the world. He made a slight modification to the carb which may be recommended if you drive the car a lot like I do. He refitted the carb to use Quadra Jet needle valve and seat which is a rubber tipped needle valve. He says that the carb works much better with this mod which no one will know about except you. The brass
  18. I have a 30 Buick with the same wheels. I feel for ya, man. They're pretty, but a pain in the butt. I recommend you visit Calimer's Wheel Shop website http://www.calimerswheelshop.com/ He is very knowledgable about these types of wheels and can even make you new spokes if needed. I am having a hard time with rims. Mine are bent and I cannot seem to find any really straight rims. Calimer's gave me the name of a guy in Dayton that might be able to make new ones, but it's expensive. If you are going to drive your car, it's important to make sure the spokes are tight and the rims are strai
  19. A little postscript to my original post. I changed out the tire with the spare. No more wheel squeak. However the spare rim is a bit bent so I have some vibration at 50 mph. There's a guy in Dayton that makes new rims (300 bucks AAaaaahhhh!), but it seems that making new ones is the only way to have STRAIGHT rims. I'm wondering if ALL of my problems are stemming from crummy, bent, rims?
  20. Hi Folks Well, yet another problem with my bomb. In 2005 I bought new tires which were Firestone 475/500 X 19's. I just noticed that around ther perimeter of the sidewall above the white wall (mostly) some horizontal cracks. At least 3 or the 4 tires are doing this. I have called the dealer and sent them pictures, but I was wondering if any of you have experienced this or known of this to happen. Coincidentally (or maybe not so), the worst tire is on the wheel that I suspect is squeaking. I have not determined the cause, although the spokes seem tight to me. I have not observed any "shi
  21. Ok, thanks all. I'll try all of these suggestions soon and post the results.
  22. I'm sorry guys, but I'm an idiot. I don't know what a "felloe" is. I have had problems with some of the rims being a bit bent and not running exactly true. So, please tell me what a felloe is. Thanks for all of your help.
  23. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am surprised. Yours is the first Jaxon wheel that I have heard of with a loose spoke. If the spoke is unfinished you could coat it over and over with boiled linseed oil, or soak it. Once it absorbed the oil it might be tight again. The real problem is if it has been loose long enough it may have worn. The solution then is to have a new hickory spoke made. I have never had a problem with my wheels but that may be because it has always been on the road (my daily driver sinc
  24. My 1930 coupe has developed a squeak at low speeds. It is probably there at higher speeds but I just can't hear it over the other noise. A couple of people have suggested that the squeak is probably a loose spoke on one of the wooden artillery wheels. They have told me to jack the car up and tap on the spokes to find the loose one. But they really didn't have any suggestions about what to do after I've found the loose one. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do about it? I've tried soaking the wheels with water but it doesn't seem to help. I'm really stumped. Those wood whee
  25. Is there a problem with the halogen lights getting too hot?
×
×
  • Create New...