sndtubes

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Everything posted by sndtubes

  1. With the exception of the heat tube guy, all of my work was done by the exact same people and I totally agree. Expensive, but great work and worth it. If you go cheap on the manifold you'll be doing it over and over again which will end up being more expensive yet. Good luck on your maiden voyage!
  2. Quick update: I squirted WD40 all around the intake while the car was running. No change in engine speed, so I dont' think the problem is a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets I put my hand over the heat tube inlet. I could feel no vacuum there, so I dont' think the heat tube is leaking I can put my hand on carb air intake while running. The car immediately dies. So, I'm not so sure there is a vacuum leak. I'm going to try to find a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum at the wiper inlet port. At present that port is closed off with a small hose (not leaking) I'm becoming suspect of the air valve. I'm wondering if it is working properly. When the carb was rebuilt a few years ago, the spring was replaced with the correct one. More updates soon. Thanks for all of the great suggestions.
  3. Quick update: I squirted WD40 all around the intake while the car was running. No change in engine speed, so I dont' think the problem is a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets I put my hand over the heat tube inlet. I could feel no vacuum there, so I dont' think the heat tube is leaking I can put my hand on carb air intake while running. The car immediately dies. So, I'm not so sure there is a vacuum leak. I'm going to try to find a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum at the wiper inlet port. At present that port is closed off with a small hose (not leaking) I'm becoming suspect of the air valve. I'm wondering if it is working properly. When the carb was rebuilt a few years ago, the spring was replaced with the correct one. More updates soon. Thanks for all of the great suggestions.
  4. I haven't cheked the cylinders yet, but it is an unlikely cause of the problem since the engine has only about 15,000 miles on it since rebuild. I just checked the valve clearances and they were all correct so I don't think that is the problem either. I really think at this point the problem is likely that the jets are partially clogged in the carb. I'm gonna try cleaning them next...... They also might be too small and need opening up a bit since this has been an issue with this car from day one.
  5. Oooo, I'd love to own a 32! My vacuum wiper port is currently disabled with a plug. It doesn't leak at all. But a vacuum leak somewhere could cause problems. Unfortuantely I don't think my problem is a vacuum leak.
  6. I'll try looking for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. It's the only likely place there could be one. I'm thinking that the jets may need to be opened up as Bob suggests. Since the car has ALWAYS run like this, I think its more of a problem like that rather than a transient problem like a leaky manifold gasket. I'll try the WD40 thing tomorrow and report back.
  7. Well, the heat riser tube was replaced by a machine shop who specializes in working on manifolds. There shouldn't be any vacuum leak there or really anywhere else I can think of......... The windshield wiper motor is diasbled and there is a tight fitting plug on the wiper vacuum tube. No leaks there.
  8. I did. None of them matched my problem. Not a very helpful response.
  9. have a 1930 Series 40 Buick with the dreaded Marvel Carburetor. A little background first: The carb was rebuilt completely about 5 years ago by "The Old Carb Doc". The manifolds have all been refurbed and the heat tube replaced. The heat system is totally disabled. The opening to the exhaust manifold has been completely sealed. The fuel pump is working fine and was rebuilt when the carb was. I have added a 6 volt "helper" fuel pump for when the car wants to vapor lock. The engine was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago. Ok, here's the problem. I cannot get the car to run right at high speeds without running the choke at least halfway out. When it is really hot (like yesterday), the choke has to be nearly all the way out for the car to run. If I push the choke in, the car starts popping and backfiring through the carb as if it's running too lean. I have tried and tried adjusting the air valve spring and I just can't seem to the the car to run rich enough at higher speeds. If the air temp is reasonable (mid 80s or so) the car runs fine with the choke all the way in, but still runs better on the highway with the choke partially out. It's easy to find the "sweet spot". My question is this: Is there something wrong, or is this just normal for this kind of carburetor? Maybe it just isn't possible for this Marvel carb to deliver enough fuel for this engine at high speeds? Or could there be something else going on? Would I be just better off by changing to a downdraft like a Rochester or Carter BB-1? I'd like to keep it as stock as possible, but it's a driver and that's most important to me. Thanks!!
  10. I have a 1930 Series 40 Buick with the dreaded Marvel Carburetor. A little background first: The carb was rebuilt completely about 5 years ago by "The Old Carb Doc". The manifolds have all been refurbed and the heat tube replaced. The heat system is totally disabled. The opening to the exhaust manifold has been completely sealed. The fuel pump is working fine and was rebuilt when the carb was. I have added a 6 volt "helper" fuel pump for when the car wants to vapor lock. The engine was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago. Ok, here's the problem. I cannot get the car to run right at high speeds without running the choke at least halfway out. When it is really hot (like yesterday), the choke has to be nearly all the way out for the car to run. If I push the choke in, the car starts popping and backfiring through the carb as if it's running too lean. I have tried and tried adjusting the air valve spring and I just can't seem to the the car to run rich enough at higher speeds. If the air temp is reasonable (mid 80s or so) the car runs fine with the choke all the way in, but still runs better on the highway with the choke partially out. It's easy to find the "sweet spot". My question is this: Is there something wrong, or is this just normal for this kind of carburetor? Maybe it just isn't possible for this Marvel carb to deliver enough fuel for this engine at high speeds? Or could there be something else going on? Would I be just better off by changing to a downdraft like a Rochester or Carter BB-1? I'd like to keep it as stock as possible, but it's a driver and that's most important to me. Thanks!!
  11. Has anyone ever gotten one of these KS Fluid gauges to work? I have replaced everything (except for the line) and still no soap. The reason I didn't replace the line is because the replacement line I bought from Bob's doesn't fit. If any of you know where I could get a line that fits and fluid that doesn't turn clear after a month, I'd appreciate it! Any ideas of how to get it to work are welcomed! I wish they never used this type of gauge.........ugh.
  12. Cracked manifolds are a real problem. Mine actually cracked into 3 pieces. They cannot be brazed. They need to be welded with cast iron with someone who knows what they are doing. In order to weld cast iron, the entire manifold has to be heated. I recommend you contact Tom Sparrow at Prairie Auto Porcelain. He can get the job done right. Otherwise you'll be shopping for a new manifold like I did.
  13. My torque tube seal apparently leaks like crazy. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? The oil from the transmission runs down the tube into the differential at a pretty quick rate. It's a real pain to have to keep filling the transmission and draining the differential. I'm worried about this one......
  14. Hi All, Well, crazy me, I drove my 1930 coupe from St. Louis to Colo. Spgs. Well, the car wasn't entirely happy about it and decided to crack it's exhaust manifold on the trip, so I'm in search for one. I'm attempting to have it welded, but not so sure it's gonna work. The manifold is 28 3/4 inches from frontmost to rearmost bolt center. It's the standard engine (not master) and I think a 29 manfold will fit. Please email me directly at sndtubes@vacuumtubes.com if you have one or might know of one. Thanks all! Mike
  15. Hey Paul, I'll trade ya! Remember you're supposed to feel sorry for me!
  16. Thanks for the tips, Mark. I recently did some service to the brakes by making the adjustment at the brake drum and lubricating all of the points. It's a bit better, but not great. I'm going to try to get the guy who did my brakes a couple of years ago to check them out. He's an antique car mechanic who has a lot of experience with mechanical brakes so I have to assume he used the correct material and performed the adjustments correctly at the time. I read the major adjustment procedure in the manual and it looks a bit complicated to me. I will take a look at the linings and drums. Perhaps there is too much grease an debris there. They are internal expanding type of drum brake. The problem is just that I run out of pedal. If the pedal didn't go all the way to the floor, I'm sure I'd be able to apply more pressure to stop more effectively..... I guess I am maybe expecting a bit too much from mechanical brakes, but I just want to make sure they are working the best they possbly can. It seems to me they used to be better......
  17. Well, since every search I've tried returns 500 results, I figured I'd just start a new thread...... I have a 30 coupe with, obviously, mechanical brakes. I am having problems with severe fading. The brakes were totally overhauled a couple of years ago. I don't recall having this much trouble with them. When going 30 or so they seem to stop pretty well, but still fade almost completely to the floor. When going 50 plus, I
  18. Well, emergency is over. I took the switch apart and drilled out the bad contact and replaced it with a #8 flathead brass screw (I think it was #8). It now works perfectly. I repaired the broken phenolic wafer with JB Weld. I just bought another switch on Ebay, so I should be covered now. See you all in Flint. I'm driving it there from St. Louis. Yes I said driving. I'm an idiot.
  19. Halp!!!! The headlight switch for my 1930 model 46 is toast. Literally. I disassembled it only to find that the headlight contacts were badly burnt and pitted. The phenolic wafer that the contacts were mounted to were burnt and brittle from the heat. I attempted to drill out the old contacts and replace them with a brass screw or something. When I tried to remove one of them, the brittle phenolic wafer disintigrated. So, if there are any of you out there that might be able to help, I'd appreciate it. (Bob's doesn't have any....). I guess in the mean time, I will rig up some toggle switches temporarily under the dash. Let me clarify by what I mean by help. I need to buy either an entire switch or at least the bottom half with the contacts on it. So if anyone has one laying around they'd sell, I'd sure be interested. Sorry for my absence from the board. I've had many personal disasters in the last several months. Hopefully I'm done with that for awhile.
  20. I have a high speed rear end in my 30 Buick and it's great. Having said that I wish I had known that there is a guy in Ohio (near Columbus) who will install a Borg Warner overdrive unit on a torque tube drive car. That's the way to go in my opinion. Bob's speedometer in Howell, MI makes little corrector boxes to correct the speedo readings just for this purpose. They're in Hemmings.
  21. Well, the water pump is rebuilt. The radiator core is new. And the engine has been rebuilt with the water jacket thoroughly cleaned and the block boiled out. I went ahead and tried the anti-foaming agent and it works great. Now if I fill the radiator most of the way, there is no burping out the overflow pipe. I will be having the water pump reworked this winter with the neoprene seal trick so I won't have to worry about that any more. The packing still leaks at the pump even though it has been recently repacked and I tighten the nut every time I see it leaking some.
  22. If ya need any tubes, that is my business, www.vacuumtubes.com Mike 1930 Model 46 Business Coupe
  23. Yes they've both been rebuilt with new bearings, bushings, etc. I take it the "yellow metal" is the bearing material? The diff has new gears (new mfg. high speed gears) and the trans just has new bushings. So you think I'm ok? thanks, Mike
  24. Uh Oh. That's probably what is in my diff & trans. I'd better change it. I don't know for sure what they put in when they rebuilt it, but I'd bet it is the GL-5 stuff.
  25. I have a 30 standard. You mean plain ol' gear lube is bad for our diff's and trans's?