sndtubes

Members
  • Content Count

    94
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About sndtubes

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/14/1960

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.vacuumtubes.com
  1. With the exception of the heat tube guy, all of my work was done by the exact same people and I totally agree. Expensive, but great work and worth it. If you go cheap on the manifold you'll be doing it over and over again which will end up being more expensive yet. Good luck on your maiden voyage!
  2. Quick update: I squirted WD40 all around the intake while the car was running. No change in engine speed, so I dont' think the problem is a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets I put my hand over the heat tube inlet. I could feel no vacuum there, so I dont' think the heat tube is leaking I can put my hand on carb air intake while running. The car immediately dies. So, I'm not so sure there is a vacuum leak. I'm going to try to find a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum at the wiper inlet port. At present that port is closed off with a small hose (not leaking) I'm becoming suspect of the air valve. I'm wondering if it is working properly. When the carb was rebuilt a few years ago, the spring was replaced with the correct one. More updates soon. Thanks for all of the great suggestions.
  3. Quick update: I squirted WD40 all around the intake while the car was running. No change in engine speed, so I dont' think the problem is a vacuum leak at the intake gaskets I put my hand over the heat tube inlet. I could feel no vacuum there, so I dont' think the heat tube is leaking I can put my hand on carb air intake while running. The car immediately dies. So, I'm not so sure there is a vacuum leak. I'm going to try to find a vacuum gauge and check the vacuum at the wiper inlet port. At present that port is closed off with a small hose (not leaking) I'm becoming suspect of the air valve. I'm wondering if it is working properly. When the carb was rebuilt a few years ago, the spring was replaced with the correct one. More updates soon. Thanks for all of the great suggestions.
  4. I haven't cheked the cylinders yet, but it is an unlikely cause of the problem since the engine has only about 15,000 miles on it since rebuild. I just checked the valve clearances and they were all correct so I don't think that is the problem either. I really think at this point the problem is likely that the jets are partially clogged in the carb. I'm gonna try cleaning them next...... They also might be too small and need opening up a bit since this has been an issue with this car from day one.
  5. Oooo, I'd love to own a 32! My vacuum wiper port is currently disabled with a plug. It doesn't leak at all. But a vacuum leak somewhere could cause problems. Unfortuantely I don't think my problem is a vacuum leak.
  6. I'll try looking for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold. It's the only likely place there could be one. I'm thinking that the jets may need to be opened up as Bob suggests. Since the car has ALWAYS run like this, I think its more of a problem like that rather than a transient problem like a leaky manifold gasket. I'll try the WD40 thing tomorrow and report back.
  7. Well, the heat riser tube was replaced by a machine shop who specializes in working on manifolds. There shouldn't be any vacuum leak there or really anywhere else I can think of......... The windshield wiper motor is diasbled and there is a tight fitting plug on the wiper vacuum tube. No leaks there.
  8. I did. None of them matched my problem. Not a very helpful response.
  9. have a 1930 Series 40 Buick with the dreaded Marvel Carburetor. A little background first: The carb was rebuilt completely about 5 years ago by "The Old Carb Doc". The manifolds have all been refurbed and the heat tube replaced. The heat system is totally disabled. The opening to the exhaust manifold has been completely sealed. The fuel pump is working fine and was rebuilt when the carb was. I have added a 6 volt "helper" fuel pump for when the car wants to vapor lock. The engine was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago. Ok, here's the problem. I cannot get the car to run right at high speeds without running the choke at least halfway out. When it is really hot (like yesterday), the choke has to be nearly all the way out for the car to run. If I push the choke in, the car starts popping and backfiring through the carb as if it's running too lean. I have tried and tried adjusting the air valve spring and I just can't seem to the the car to run rich enough at higher speeds. If the air temp is reasonable (mid 80s or so) the car runs fine with the choke all the way in, but still runs better on the highway with the choke partially out. It's easy to find the "sweet spot". My question is this: Is there something wrong, or is this just normal for this kind of carburetor? Maybe it just isn't possible for this Marvel carb to deliver enough fuel for this engine at high speeds? Or could there be something else going on? Would I be just better off by changing to a downdraft like a Rochester or Carter BB-1? I'd like to keep it as stock as possible, but it's a driver and that's most important to me. Thanks!!
  10. I have a 1930 Series 40 Buick with the dreaded Marvel Carburetor. A little background first: The carb was rebuilt completely about 5 years ago by "The Old Carb Doc". The manifolds have all been refurbed and the heat tube replaced. The heat system is totally disabled. The opening to the exhaust manifold has been completely sealed. The fuel pump is working fine and was rebuilt when the carb was. I have added a 6 volt "helper" fuel pump for when the car wants to vapor lock. The engine was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago. Ok, here's the problem. I cannot get the car to run right at high speeds without running the choke at least halfway out. When it is really hot (like yesterday), the choke has to be nearly all the way out for the car to run. If I push the choke in, the car starts popping and backfiring through the carb as if it's running too lean. I have tried and tried adjusting the air valve spring and I just can't seem to the the car to run rich enough at higher speeds. If the air temp is reasonable (mid 80s or so) the car runs fine with the choke all the way in, but still runs better on the highway with the choke partially out. It's easy to find the "sweet spot". My question is this: Is there something wrong, or is this just normal for this kind of carburetor? Maybe it just isn't possible for this Marvel carb to deliver enough fuel for this engine at high speeds? Or could there be something else going on? Would I be just better off by changing to a downdraft like a Rochester or Carter BB-1? I'd like to keep it as stock as possible, but it's a driver and that's most important to me. Thanks!!
  11. Has anyone ever gotten one of these KS Fluid gauges to work? I have replaced everything (except for the line) and still no soap. The reason I didn't replace the line is because the replacement line I bought from Bob's doesn't fit. If any of you know where I could get a line that fits and fluid that doesn't turn clear after a month, I'd appreciate it! Any ideas of how to get it to work are welcomed! I wish they never used this type of gauge.........ugh.
  12. Cracked manifolds are a real problem. Mine actually cracked into 3 pieces. They cannot be brazed. They need to be welded with cast iron with someone who knows what they are doing. In order to weld cast iron, the entire manifold has to be heated. I recommend you contact Tom Sparrow at Prairie Auto Porcelain. He can get the job done right. Otherwise you'll be shopping for a new manifold like I did.
  13. My torque tube seal apparently leaks like crazy. Any suggestions on how I should proceed? The oil from the transmission runs down the tube into the differential at a pretty quick rate. It's a real pain to have to keep filling the transmission and draining the differential. I'm worried about this one......
  14. Hi All, Well, crazy me, I drove my 1930 coupe from St. Louis to Colo. Spgs. Well, the car wasn't entirely happy about it and decided to crack it's exhaust manifold on the trip, so I'm in search for one. I'm attempting to have it welded, but not so sure it's gonna work. The manifold is 28 3/4 inches from frontmost to rearmost bolt center. It's the standard engine (not master) and I think a 29 manfold will fit. Please email me directly at sndtubes@vacuumtubes.com if you have one or might know of one. Thanks all! Mike
  15. Hey Paul, I'll trade ya! Remember you're supposed to feel sorry for me!