gr8scott

I took it real easy on the brakes for the first 100 miles to let them get seated, and stumped it for the first time today while doing @80 on an open stretch of road—got a nice, well controlled, even pull down to a complete stop. Feels good to have it just right again.

While having the front brakes done, the mechanic pointed out the oil seepage at the bottom of the oil pan, as well as transmission fluid leakage, and recommended I have them replaced. He also thought it would be a good time to replace the transmission filter. Any thoughts, or precautions on those items that I should be aware of?

Front brake job done. Mobile mechanic cam to the house, charged $70. The pads had lots of thickness left, as did the rotors (which were worn uneven), but parts are too cheap not to replace them. When done, we ran the brake test series as per the prescribed steps.

... and if you liked that shot, you'll love this one:

"you teach us how to lower the reatta like your pic" The body wasn't lowered.... the wheels were raised—in Photoshop :-)

I'm just having the front done. Does this: May need to unwind the e-brake screw in the back to get the piston to retract. Be careful not to let the screw retract into the body. refer to the front brake or just the rear?

After trying several online suppliers of Brembo rotors, none of whom had it, I went with the NAPA premium rotors and Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads, which I'd just received. A couple of months ago I had the brakes flushed by a shop who failed to follow the procedure I printed out for them, and grossly overfilled the fluid reservoir. Fortunately, I checked before leaving the shop and had it corrected. But after that experience I don't trust any shop with knowing that Reatta brakes are different, so I'm having a mobile brake guy come do the job at my house. What precautions should I pass on to the guy, or is there a set of step by step instructions available similar to the Brake-System check procedure? Any pointers appreciated.

Thanks for the pointers. 1. I checked online for rotors and found a wide variety of prices, from JCWhitney's $22.99 to upward of $100 for some super-duper brands. I don't want to be cheap on this, but neither do I intend to run at LeMans, so within reason is one as good as any other?

I'm about to have the brakes done, as the rotors appear to be spotty. 1. Is there a brand of pads recommended above others? 2. Anything special I should be aware of before embarking on the adventure?

The right front fog (or is it parking) light, not the wrap-around but the small square one below it had burned out. I removed it, and found it has one of those twist-out "bulbs". Are these "bulbs still commonly available, or will I have to replace the whole unit?

My '89's odometer had just turned 70,000.

I'd just had the system flushed by a shop. To ensure they understood the difference between a Teves and ordinary systems, I gave them a printout of the correct procedure as listed on reatta.net. Although I was not allowed in the shop area, the car was over the pit for over an hour, and they claimed to have used 4 cans of brake fluid, so I presumed the job was done right. The brakes felt fine on the way home, if anything, a bit better/more positive than before. Once at home I ran the brake test, and right off I found the fluid level way too high: right up to the cap. Using a syringe I lowered the level to the prescribed level and proceeded with the test. Here are my readings: Test 1 - 10 (average 10) Test 2 -14 (average 28) (Fluid level was correct at this point) Test 3 - 18 (average 32) Test 4 - 30 (average 45) At this point I stopped because I got a bit confused about the Turn on/start/off business. By this I mean, can I run Test 3 independently, or must they all be in sequence and in one stretch?

I checked GMpartsdirect.They listed the pressure switch at $110 but drew a blank on the pump assembly. It correctly identified by part number 25535686, but listed the price as $0.00, which I took to mean they do not have it.

Thanks for all the pointers. It'll be my weekend's wild adventure to explore this. If, as Rawja indicated, I'll need to get a new pump from GMPartsDirect, does anyone happen to have the part number?

Not being a mechanically experienced owner, I attempted to look at the pressure switch as suggested... but the shop manual's illustration is of an exploded view so I was unsure. I see three things that look like switches and didn't want to remove the connector from the wrong one. Speaking of which, to remove it, do I pull up on the white tab that looks like a retainer of sort, and then the thing will slide free, or what's the correct procedure? Here's a picture looking at it from the right front.

Thanks Jim. I'll look at the pressure switch.

The last time it was flushed was June 2008. It would probably be a good idea to do it again.

I had time to take it for a spin today. I only drove it for a couple of miles, bu I did get up to speed, and there was no indication of the original problem. Question to Padgett: Did you mean the brake problem was caused by engine over heating, and/or a main bearing failure?

I was lucky in that I was only three blocks from home and heading home. Slowing for a gentle curve, I heard a low rumble, something akin to a muffled raspberry, and I sensed the need for more pedal pressure. A block further I came to a stop sign. This time the pedal was even softer, the noise a bit louder, and the yellow ABS light came on. I nursed it slowly home in the right lane, and just before arriving the red brake light came on as well, and was immediately followed by the CRT lighting up with "Insufficient pressure..." and something else, but I was paying attention to the road, and didn't catch the rest before it went off. Easing into the driveway and the garage, I came to a controlled stop. This was late last night, so I waited till daylight to do a visual check. The reservoir fluid level is normal. I se no leaks. If I start the engine, system check claims everything to be OK, and the brake indicators both extinguish in a few seconds as usual. Pedal pressure is still spongy. I didn't drive it to see what the full text of the warning was, as I live on a hilly street and don't want to stretch my luck. What should I suspect?

Something I failed to mention in my summary: When installing the new battery, as I touched the negative cable to the ground pole I heard a muffled, metallic click from the vicinity of the relay box next to he windshield washer reservoir. Touch - click. I touched it again, same thing. Once the cable was firmly held in place by the bolt, it didn't occur any more. Just when it was first touched. Never heard that before when removing or installing the battery. By the way, when I exchanged the battery the guy at the sore told me that it was bulging on the ends......

I purchased a new battery. I've only driven the car once with the fresh battery, and it's been sitting in the garage since then. (It's a weekend car- 66K on the odo) I'm letting it sit a few extra days to see if there might be a slow drain somewhere due to a short, and then take it back to the store and have it checked -- without starting first.

>>I gave you a link earlier that explains it all. Did you bother to read about it?<< Yes, I read it, but reading it doesn't necessarily mean it soaked in, and I apparently misconcrewed the meaning. I did better upon second reading. Although I'm into my seventh year of Reatta ownership, other than a thermostat issue, a routine replacement of the accumulator, and a minor annoyance with the radio, this is the first time I encountered any problem of a mechanical nature, so technically I'm a rookie at this. Thanks to your assistance and others contributing to this thread, in the end I was able to resolve the problem.

Right back where I started from.... and more. After a 12 hour trickle charge and about 10 hours of standing unconnected, I took the battery to AutoZone where they checked it and it was found to be low, although I wasn't given a numerical value. They put it on a one-hour quick charge, and I was told to bring it in along with the car so they can check the alternator. I did, they ran he check, and the alternator is claimed to be OK. At first the on-board meter read 13.6-14V, but after several stops and restarts on the way home, the highest reading I got was 13.5. Just for chuckles I ran the entire gamut of checks- engine, vehicle, brake, computer system, etc, every one of them indicated a problem and recommended service. For example the engine was shown to be overheating, but the temp indicator showed 181 degrees, which is about average on cool days. Oil level low, fuel low, brake fluid low, doors open, you name it; if there is a warning to be given, I got it. Being that the battery has been disconnected a number of times, is there a way to reset this thing, because other than the charging system, there are no problems in spite of all those reported.

Which relays were they?

>>Sounds like the battery is not holding a charge<< I've just returned from having it checked at a parts store, where it read 201CCA -- should be 650 or so. I'm going to trickle charge it overnight and see whether it holds the charge.