gr8scott

I've had a stroke and the DMV suspended my license, so the Reatta stood unused in the garage for months. Over time the battery lost its charge and is completely flat. I have a home battery charger which I've used in the past but this time I'm having a problem with it: When set on slow charge the needle only advances to about where the 5V mark would be (about halfway to the ten). Set to the 50 mark which is usually enough to provide an instant charge, it buzzes loud but doesn't turn the engine over. Contacts are clean and tight and connections correct. When the keys are "on" (but not the start) interior lights come on, as does the security warning, but the CRT doesn't light up. (Not sure if it is supposed to light up at this stage, I never checked it.) I checked the charger, it's OK. Not being a mechanically inclined person, I'm out of ideas. I hope some of you understand what's going on and will help me get my baby back on the road. Thanks, as always.

I have a Catch22 problem with my AC. I turn it on and I get the below message on the CRT. I had this happen again about three weeks ago> i took it to a shop and they added 2 cans of the "new" Freon that brought it up to par. They checked for leaks and informed me there were no leaks. This morning the moment I turned the AC on, I got the message again. What causes this? PS: I had the whole thing replaced about three years ago, but prefer not going through the expense again.

Thanks, Dave. For the cost of freight I can't go wrong. Let me know what that cost is and I'll pay you in advance. Have a Paypal account?

The car's an '89 red-tan coupe. The door panel is tan. Anyone have one for sale?

The arm rest on the left door (where I rest my elbow) has developed a number of serious cracks. Although the area is less than palm size, it does look ugly and I'm looking for a remedy. I tried one of those leather repair kits, but it just made it look worse. I talked to an upholstery repair shop, but they said they'd have to remove the entire door panel to fix the problem, and the cost would be @$350. Obviously I'd want something less. Any suggestions?

Had this car for 14 years, had brakes worked on, air conditioner replaced, and a few gaskets here and here. I'm 82, so I expect it to outlast me.

My 89 coupe is seldom used. (81K miles on odo) Lately I hear a low pitch humming/tooting sound at start up and it stays that way for minutes even if I wait for a warm up before driving. Brakes are soft and there's no such thing as doing a heavy nose dip when pressing hard on the brake pedal. Am I right in suspecting a need to change the accumulator. It was replaced about 10 years and 30K miles ago, but Father Time kills things whether we use them or not. What think Ye?

Thanks to repeated, patient advice the radio module is out, the new one in, and the sound is excellent. It was, however, a miserable, knuckle-busting experience over several days in ten minute increments. Getting the connectors off was like trying to take a pork chop from a pit bull, and I have the scratches and bruises to prove it. All that's left is replacing the seat. Glad to have it behind me as ten days from today I'll be having my third back surgery in as many years, and here's no way i could do this for quite a while. Again, thanks.

This has been on various threads. Long story short (probably too late for that) I've managed to wrestle out the divers seat and am looking at the module under the console but it's too tight to reach in to unplug the connectors, so I'm stuck on how to remove it. Not to dwell on "woe be me", but my task is further complicated by being severely limited in mobility and due to the contortions necessary to get in at floor level I can only dedicate ten minutes or so to the project before having to take an extended rest. Thus the thread lasting several days. In any case here is what I'm looking at. Question: What and how do I remove next to get on with the job without damaging something?

Trying to replace the radio module and am stuck after removing the driver's seat. It got dark on me and will start fresh tomorrow, but I could use a few friendly pointers. TIA.

I'm still looking for one. Tried searching for one out of early 90s Chevy C10, which is supposedly the same, but no luck. Also in the market for a saddle console lid. Anyone, anyone...Buehler?

Let me know what you're asking for the radio module.

I've once again done an extensive search, naming not only Reatta but all the other models this module works o: 88-94 GM and GMC pickups,, Suburbans, Yukons, etc, but came up with nothing. Does anyone have the correct Part Number for this item?

It's done. I found a flexible wrench extension at Harbor Freight, and after removing the stabilizer and wrestling the jungle of cables out of he way the last remaining screw became accessible. The module lifted right out and reassembly was a breeze. The air now comes on and turns off when ordered. And then...just to see what Gee-Whiz circuitry I'd find inside I decided to perform an autopsy on the bad module. Removing four screws holding the two parts together, I may have stumbled onto the reason for its failure: The thermal paste between the two aluminum surfaces was dry and spotty at best, reducing conductivity and possibly causing the unit to fail...... an uneducated and unsophisticated guess. And because I had nothing better to do, I cleaned it up and applied a good coat of thermal paste I had left over from the last time I installed a new CPU in my PC. I didn't want to test my theory right then, but after reassembly I put it into a ziplock bag, and if I ever have an issue with the new one, I'll try it. Again, thanks for all the input and helpful suggestions, and thanks to Harry for supplying the needed part.

After four days of intermittent struggles I managed to remove the term connectors and then the two screws holding the module down. I then spent the last two days trying to get a box or open end wrench onto that third &*$@#^%^ screw in the back. Holding a tiny wrench blocks the view , so it's blind work. Even if I manage to somehow get the wrench onto it, there isn't enough room to make a 1/6 turn. How does one get to that rascal and with what tool?

I found a way to reach the screws, but first want to move the power connectors out of the way so when the screws are out I can lift he module out. The white release tabs move a little but not enough to release the clip holding onto the top edge of the connectors..... so close yet so far.

Thanks, that's a relief.

Progress report: I've recharged the battery, reconnected it and the blower didn't come back on. That was a relief... until I found that it won't come on at all, confirming everyone's diagnosis. I've located the ECC power module but I'm unable to do the contortions necessary to access the mounting screws in order to remove it. I'll find someone to do it. Question: Does the ECC module lift out after the screws are removed, or is it necessary to remove the blower motor itself (as suggested by the service manual illustration in my earlier post?

Harry Yarnell was kind enough to sell me an ECC module, which arrived yesterday. However, it doesn't look anything like the graphic I posted from the service manual, and I'm having a hard time identifying it under the hood . I'm barely semi-ambulatory, so I can only stay on my feet a few minutes at a time, and it would help tremendously if someone could point out the location on the attached picture.... and while I'm at it, which one of the three relays seen on the right controls the ABS? I need to replace it because the light (yellow) stays on.

Is this the item? (from the service manual)

Shut down after a 10 mile or so drive, but I heard a fan noise. It was a hot day and traffic was slow, so I thought it was the radiator fan continuing the cool down. But when I went out to the garage an hour later, the noise was still on. There was no air flow to the inside, and the radiator fan was off too. The fan or motor-like noise seems to have come from the cowl just in front of the windshield. Again, I sensed no air movement. No trouble was indicated in the diagnostics. Battery was down to 8.6V. Not knowing what else to do to stop it, I disconnected the battery, and that stopped it. It's not a daily driver, so I can wait for pointers of what I should be looking for. ... appreciate any pointers.

The snap-crackle-n-pop and other assorted squeaky noises emanating from all the speakers ( and overwhelming any possibly pleasant sounds) leads me to believe I need to replace the radio module. I've done this once about ten years ago and remember it being a pain. In any case I need another one. Anyone have one for sale, or know the precise part number of the one I need? Please let me know. Thanks.

Having received multiple responses of sound advice, (some of which conflict based on the individual experiences of the posters) and not being a mechanically competent person, I'm in need of suggestions on how to present my work order to a technician without indicating my incompetency. I have no previous experience with transmission shops, so as far as "trust" is concerned it's a shot in the dark, and I want to avoid being overcharged.

Thanks for the suggestion about the transmission service. I'll do that..... As far as parking it in the neighbor's garage, he declined, saying "No thanks, I've seen your floor."🙂

My bad, I just presumed the only car we talk about here is the Reatta. In any case I got the job done last month for $280. And thanks for the tip, " Never tell a mechanic 'Replace the oil pan gasket' say 'Fix the oil leak". There is a big difference.