AVS619

I am in process of removing the rear wheels of a 1912 Oakland and a 1910 IHC J-30 but find that none will cooperate. If anyone has some ideas on the removal of rear wheels I would be open to any suggestions but what I need are some of the old wheel pullers, the ones that screw on the hub cap threads (which are rather fine treads) with a large center bolt that tightens on the axle. It appears the width is much wider than the typical Model T wheel puller and be about 2.7 or 2.75 inch. Anyone have some wheel pullers they would sell me? I would like to get both cars on the road by late May if at all possible. Please contact me at edfors@charter.net. Thank you indeed! Thomas Edfors.

Seeking a Model 14 Buick. Good original car or older restoration preferred but any and all considered. Please contact Tom Edfors via email at edfors@charter.net. If you can email photos that would help and do please let me know your asking price. Thank you!

The Schebler Model R on my 1909 Regal will not stop leaking no matter what I try. I thank those who offered help but it appears the problem may be fatal to this carburetor. I have spoken to many over the past week and have been given the advice to get a 'modern' updraft carburetor for the car so I can tour but, so far no one can tell me what kind and make carburetor to get and where I should get one. Has anyone replaced their original carburetor with a modern one? If so, what did you use and where did you get it? The Regal has a four-cylinder 30hp engine but at the moment I do not know the displacement. Would a tractor or a fork lift carburetor work? I am missing a tour this week because of the leaking Schebler but may have one more before the end of the car season. Can anyone help? If so, please provide details. For direct contact email me at edfors@charter.net. Tom

Hello Nickelroadster! The carburetor is an early Model R mounted on a 1909 Regal and appears to be the original to the car. There is no vacuum tank, just gravity feed from the tank under the front seat. There have been four attempts to stop this problem, so far, with the bowl removed and float adjusted. Each time the bowl is put back on it does not leak when the fuel valve is opened. The cars is strated and I let it run for while and then shut off the motor. In about two to three seconds fuel runs out of the bottom first as a drip then a stream and it will not stop until the fuel valve is shut off. After trying some original cork floats from some parts carburetor I replaced the cork with one of the 'new' material floats being sold for model T's and perhaps it is not floating good enough to close the needle. So, late last night I carved out a new, larger float from my last block of cork and will try that. All I can come up with is that the needle is not shutting off the gas either due to the float or my adjustment of same. After I catch up with work tomorrow I'll put in the new cork float (do I need to coat the cork?) and see what happens. I may have to do some trial and error as to the adjusting the foat. I am not sure at what level of gasloine the needle should be closed by the float. I'll let you know what happens. Thank you again for your help. Tom

Hello Nickelroadster and/or anyone who can help me with this. I put the carburetor back together and adjusted it as found in Dykes. Tha car started right up after installation and on one crank. Now a new problem. As soon as I shut the car off gasoline leaks out the bottom in a stream. I had cleaned the vent, made new gaskets and a new fiber washer where the bowl mounts. I have taken the bowl off five or six times now and readjusted the float but no matter what I do, the gasoline stream appears as soon as the motor is shut off. This never happened before even if the gas sht off valve was left on all day. Any suggestions? I am supposed to take this car on a three day tour next week so I do need help! Tom

Hello Nickelroadster. Thank you for your resonse! I have found a copy of a 1915 Dykes and while it helps with the air valve cap it does not help much with the bottom adjusting screw. I was hoping to hear from others with a Model R to see how they have adjusted their's in 'real life' situations. I guess I will just do some trail and error and see what happnes. I will have to master the Schebler somehow as I have three other cars with Scheblers on them that have not seen gasloline for decades. This time I'll clean them! Thank you again for your reply. Tom

Well, I had my Schebler Model R carburetor sent out for cleaning (to a 'friend') and it came back nice and clean but quite apart. I have put it together but, how do you adjust a Model R? Does anyone have one of these on their car and if so, do you know how to adjust it for running? I am most interested in knowing how to adjust the air valve cap (known as A on the standard Model R diagram seen on the internet) and the adjusting screw on the bottom (known as F on the diagram). In any event, if you know how to set up this carburetor for running I have a tour in a few weeks. Assume I am a novice (I am) and that the carburetor is way out of adjustment (it is) and please let me know how to make proper adjustments. You can email me directly at edfors@charter.net. Thank you indeed! Tom

There is a good chance I will need to sell my 1917 Briscoe 4-24 touring soon (at least prior to winter). I want it to go to a good home, to those who will take good care of her as she has been in our family for 45 years now. If you have an interest, email me (edfors@charter.net) for information and photos. Price yet to be set. I hate to have to sell it but it needs a new loving home. Tom

Thank you both for the information! Tom

I am soon to restart two brass-era cars that have been stored for the past thirty-five or forty years or so. One is a 1910 IHC J-30 and the other a 1912 Buick Model 28, both four cylinder and about 30 hp or so (by the way, thank you to all who have responded to my previous questions). I have cleaned the 'sludge' out of the oil pan, the tranmission and rear end of each car, cleaned everything up with my favorite cleaner, Marvel Mystery Oil, and need to refill each to get them ready for the road. My questions are for those of you who tour in your brass-era car. I am curious about what viscosity oils, and brands too, that you use in the engine, the transmisson and the differential. Please let me know what you use and if you also know, what not to use. Thank you indeed. Thomas Edfors Lake Mills, WI edfors@charter.net

My 1912 Model 28 Buick has a Bosch A Dual-Coil on it, which appears to have been installed early on. While I have heard of them I never had one on any of my brass era cars. After years of storage, it is time to bring the Buick back to life but, I do not know how a Bosch A Dual-Coil functions. I see that the larger lever on top switches from Battery ( to Magneto (M) but the smaller center 'lever' switches from Start to Run. Is anyone familiar with this coil and how it should work? I would greatly appreciate any and all information anyone may provide me regarding the use of this coil. While the engine is now freed up and appears ready to start I do not want to try until I have this coil fully understood so as not to do any damage to anything. I do have photos of the coil if anyone would like me to email them (my email is edfors@charter.net). Thank you all in advance. Tom Edfors

Well, it is time to get my 1909 Sears Model H running and driving for 2012 after a 30 year slumber and prior to that, another fifty years of museum display. My questions are, what carburetor is on your Sears (there is a Kingston Five Ball on mine now), what do you use for the fiction material on the friction wheel (what is on now is leather that just does not work) and what is the material is within the 'clutches' on the end of the jackshaft (it appears someone put brake lining on in the 1920's and it also no longer works)? Follow up question would be for those you drive their Sears. Is it a good car, or can it be made to be a good car, for touring? Anyone do one a one and two-cylinder tour in their Sears or even the New London to New Brighton? Please email me directly at edfors@charter.net. I will greatly appreciate any help. Thank you indeed! Tom Edfors

I acquired a 1912 Buick Model 28 with a Bosch Dual Coil coil/ignition swith on it that appears to have been installed when the car was originally used (although the wood, empty, coil box is still in place but not connected). The key for the Bosch went misisng a long time ago. First, is anyone familiar with this type of coild and how it works. Then, has anyone had a key made or replaced? The Buick was unused for many years but I am now getting close to getting it ready to run again. Making the coil work is the next hurdle. Any information/help on this coil will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Tom Edfors at edfors@charter.net.

Seeking a two-cylinder Buick, any model considered. Prefer a good unrestored original (if that still exists) or an older restoration but any and all considered. A four-cylinder brass era Buick roadster also desired. Please contact Thomas Edfors at edfors@charter.net (best) or call 920-648-3067. I am hard to reach by phone but you can leave a message. Thank you indeed.

While I am always interested in adding brass era cars to my collection I am currently seeking a two-cylinder Buick, any model. A good original (if that is still possible) or older restoration preferred but any and all considered. Would also consider a two-cylinder REO or Maxwell. Please contact Thomas Edfors at edfors@charter.net or call 920-648-3067. I am hard to reach by phone but you can leave a message. Thank you indeed!

Seeking a 1930 or '31 Model A Sport Coupe. Prefer a good original, if possible, or an older restoration but any and all considered. Midwest location would be best. Please email Thomas Edfors at edfors@charter.net (or call 920-648-3067). Sending a photo would help and, of course, please let me know your asking price. Thank you indeed.

Seeking a brass era Chalmers, especially intetested in a roadster or toy tonneau. Unrestored or older restoration preferred but any and all considered. Please contact Tom at edfors@charter.net. I am hard to reach by phone but do have an answering machine and fax at 920-648-3067. Thank you!

Oldmitchell. Dave has been in and out of the hospital over the last two to three weeks. You are not forgotten but you must have patience. I am working on it as are others but I am over three hours away. His poor health is not an excuse but it is not to be taken lightly either, it is serious.

Seeking a brass-era Oakland roadster. Old restoration or an original car preferred but any and all would be considered. Please send details, photo and, of course, your asking price to edfors@charter.net. Thank you!

Jason, You are absolutely right. I am self-employed and understand that the most important thing is to communicate with your clients. You have hit the nerve with Dave. After 15 plus plus years of knowing him, this indeed is the main problem he has despite the great restoration work he has done over the past. I have spoken to him many times about this over the years. But, I have not yet met a restorer of antique cars who have done much more in terms of communication. I have worked with restorers who have done must less in quality of work. So which do you want, talk or good work? I favor the later. That said, when one has major medical problems things do break down. I know from experience. The important thing is, has the distributor been provided in time for touring? You have to give some compassion to someone with medical problems. Sooner or later we will all have them and sometimes, we do not recover. As you say, I hope all is removed from this site once this is resolved. Somehow I doubt oldmitchell will say much once he has what he wanted, his distributor.

Oldmitchell, I was at Dave's shop last week and he was testing your distributor. My wife spoke with him yesterday and he said that it had been sent out. Did you get it? If not, it should be there soon. You said some things about Dave that were not nice and threatened legal action for all to see by posting it. You might want to let everyone know when you get the distributor. You left us hanging and should finish the story. By the way, Dave indeed has some difficult medical problems which I have seen myself. His hip replacement has 'healed' but that has opened up a whole host of other health issues. I have had my parts there over two years but know of his condition and understand and we agreed that I should take them home and work on them later. The way you spoke of Dave without knowing all the facts can destroy his reputation and affect his future source of income. My only hope now is that you let us know that you got the distributor (I have one of his) and that you enjoy it in many years of touring. You might want to wish Dave good luck in getting better.

Hello Steve! I hope this is indeed just a joke but searching the internet I found information that seems to make it true. As a joke, it is a REALLY a bad one. I am taxed enough already and as I stated, the government has actually killed my buisness. Thus, something like this has a ring of truth to it. And, if it is a joke, I hope no one in Washington is looking as they may find it to be a good idea!

I have just heard that Senator Chuck Schumer is drafting a bill that will tax antque, historic, collector and race cars (well, actually all of the cars we love) as personal property and at a 10% (starting) yearly rate! This will be over and above what any state may do. The intent, I am led to believe, is to set up a branch of the IRS to go over all club rosters (in case you try to 'hide' your car and not report it on the 1040 form as he wants), find out who owns what, use auctions and the like to establish value and then tax us. Cars in museums, not regsitered and/or nonfunctional will still be taxed. The result will be the end of the car hobby, the closing of restoration shops and services (who will put money in a car if they face a 10% tax?) and plummeting car values. Let's not forget the hotels, gas stations, restaurants, and the like that make income from our tours and meets. The government generates tax revenue from all of these sources. By the way, Chuck says we are all rich and we play with our cars on the 'backs of the poor'. Give me a break. Is this true? Does anyone else know about this? Most important is, how do we stop this? I have spent forty-five years building my collection, mostly brass era, from already taxed dollars doing it piecemeal as funds allow and I could not afford to pay this yearly tax. I too am 'poor' now due to the direct result of Chuck Schumer and Barney Frank who destroyed the real estate lending industry putting me out of work (who needs a real estate appraisal?). Now he wants to take away my hobby and passion. We must stop this! But how?

Every spring it is time to start polishing all the brass on my brass cars (9 so far and I am still looking for that 2-cylinder brass era car for touring) and I have finally come to the conclusion that there has to be a better way. I used to use Brasso but switched to Tarnite and then to Maas. Is there anything better? After polishing it would be nice to coat the brass with something that will keep it shinned for a lengthened period of time. I don't want to use the industrial strength music instrument coating but rather something I could apply and that could be easily removed once it is time to polish again. I have heard of Shark Skin but can not locate anyone who sells it. Anyone have any experiance with coating brass themselves and, if so, could they could recommend a product? By the way, I tried Eastwoods coating but I am not too happy with it so far on larger pieces such as gear shift and brake levers and the like. Anyway, I would appreciate knowing what others use and do. Thank you. Thomas Lake Mills, WI