AVS619

For those of you living in Wisconsin, have any of you had experience getting a title for a car that you have owned for some time (even decades) but never titled. The car is a 1912 Oakland and I bought it in pieces in about 1980. It has taken this long to find parts and get time from my business and get to work on it. It now runs (engine rebuilt finally) but a long way to go. I have heard that not getting a title or license straight away may mean there could be back penalties and such. Oh, it was bought under a bill of sale, they did not title a car as old as this in the state I bought it from. It was assumed this was a Barney Pollard car once. Anyone have an experience, information or other advise. Thank you indeed! Tom

For those of you who looked at my previous post (and there have been over 200 who did) regarding the passing of Dave Hentschel I have additional information. Dave was cremated so there was no funeral. However, I have been informed that the family wishes to have a visitation (I am now not sure if there will be any formal memorial service at this time) on Saturday, May 31st at the Hack Funeral Home (www.hackfuneralhome.com) in Beecher, Illinois from 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM. Tom Edfors

For those of you who knew Dave, you may not know that Dave passed away early Friday morning. Dave was the restorer of many Miller racing cars and sold his own invention, a distributor that replaces the mag on early cars. He restored many cars over the years, some of them mine. More importantly for me, he was a good friend. Services are not yet decided. Hack Funeral Home (www.hackfuneralhome.com) in Beecher, Illinois will post information once plans are finalized. I thought some of you might want to know this. Tom Edfors

For those of you who tour with you brass era car I have a question. Although I have collected these cars for forty-five years, starting in high school, I have only 'recently' started driving and touring them. Currently I am using my 1909 Regal (with a Schebler R on it) and soon a 1912 Buick Model 28 (with a Schebler L I believe). Now I know that brass era cars are notorious for oil leaks, and these two leak also but not too bad. My question and concern is that after running the car, either standing still or after a drive, when I shut off the car gas leaks from the carburetor. I get a small pool under the car and then it usually stops. Both of these are updraft carburetors. I will also soon have an IHC J-30 ready to run and it too has an updraft Schebler. I have been told by a few Model T friends, and a professional restorer, that some gas leakage upon shut off is more or less normal. Do you who drive brass era cars have the same situation if you have an updraft carburetor? Is this something to have a serious concern about and, if so, how does one fix it or, is this just a normal situation with an updraft and I should just 'go with the flow' so to speak? Just curious but, are there any modern replacement carburetors to mount for touring purposes? Any suggestions on that? Thank you indeed! Thomas Edfors at brasscars@charter.net

I am starting the restoration of the wood wheels on my 1912 Oakland and am in need of felloe plates. Does anyone now where one can obtain these? Model T plates seem too small and it would be great to find them in brass. Please let me know if you have a source. Thanks! Tom (brasscars@charter.net).

I am looking for some no-name brass step plates. I remember these being sold by Sheldon Greenland in the 1960's and 70's and I have seen them (back when I did not need them) at antique shops from time to time. These would be similar to the brass step plates sold by Model T parts suppliers but without any script. I need one to four. These are for a 1910 IHC J 30 touring that hopefully may be on the road later this year. If you have any please contact me at edfors@charter.net. (I am very hard to reach by phone) and let me know what you have and price. Thank you indeed! Tom

I am looking for a 1909/1910 Regal Model 30 (touring car) belly pan or pattern to make same. Also could use an original carburetor (current carburetor is a later aftermarket). If you can help, please email me at edfors@charter.net.

Can you post some photos please?

Once again I am faced with a non-functional Schebler carburetor and I am at the point of not wanting to run the two cars with the problems with a Schebler anymore. I am tired of being stranded by the road waiting for help. My wife, Joyce, says she will never again ride in the 1909 Regal unless the carburetor is replaced and the 1912 Buick Model 28 leaks gas also. I have been to the forum before seeking help but now I need a straightforward answer as to what type of a 'modern' updraft carburetor can be purchased to replace the old one that will work and will not leak. Both cars are 30hp four cylinders of 201 and about 221 cubic inches. I know many of you have replaced your carburetors. Please tell me specifically what make and model carburetor you used and where to get one. I must solve this over the winter, I am planning on doing tours with both the Buick and the Regal next year. Please help or at least sell me a steam car so I can forget about carburetors. Thank you indeed. Best to email me directly at edfors@charter.net. Tom.

Selling 1917 Briscoe B-4-24. has been in my family since 1967. The car was a good original car with only an early 1960's repaint. The upholstery is original and quite useable. Top is from the mid-60's and should be cleaned or replaced. The Briscoe has the unusual crown shaped radiator, gas, and crank hole caps as well as the hubcaps. It needs just a little TLC to get back on the road but a very rare and worthy car. With so many memories of the car I want it to go to a good loving home. Asking only $9800. Located in Lake Mills, WI USA. Please email me, Thomas Edfors, for additional information and numerous photos at edfors@charter.net.

Hello Ben. The carburetor on the Regal is a Schebler Model R. I do not believe it is original but probably put on before WW1. It worked very well until the original float broke. It did leak gas from time to time when the engine was shut off but not too bad. A new copy of the original float was installed and then all went wrong. Now the car is hard to start where before it started on second pull of the crank. Once running it seems to work well until one has driven for a few miles. Suddenly the engine will back-fire and start stalling. If it keeps running it runs rough. Most of the time the car just shuts off and gas leaks out the bottom of the carb, a lot of it. It may or may not start again. If it does start, it will do this again. This has happened on three tours and I am tired of being left behind. On tour, others stop to look at it but no real help. It has been adjusted per original instructions. Someone said it is haunted. I tried a modern Zenith carb, a tractor one. I like the way the car runs on this carburetor but it actually leaks more gas then the Schebler and the instructions that came with it say it will leak up to 1/4 cup of gasoline. Not a good thing. I do not know if the Schebler can be made right again. I would like to find a more modern replacement so I can get on the road with confidence but I need one that will not leak gasoline. Hotels and other parking lots frown on this. I want to go touring again in this Regal and sure could use some help. My wife loves touring with me but now does not want to go unless this problem is solved, or we get another brass era car for touring purposes. Any thoughts? Thanks. Tom

Hello Mike and David. Over the weekend I was able to remove the circa 1960's tires on the 1910 IHC J-30 with much sweat and toil. The new 36 x 4 1/4 Silverton Cords have the inner tubes and flaps properly in place and one tire was put on a wheel. But I just can not compress the new tire enough to get the lock ring on as the lock ring had an extra 'lip' that slides under the outer metal ring. Frustrating to say the least. Mike, did you by any chance find the Ken-Tool Bead Breaker? The 1911 IHC J-30 still has the original tires on it, which are rock hard, so they will have to be cut off but the same problem will exist when it is time to mount the new ones. Before that however, I have to mount four 36 x 4 1/2 tires on a 1912 Oakland with a different type of lock ring and again a bead breaker would help squeeze the new tire. I have tried C-clamps on the old tires but no matter how I tried to protect the tires, the clamps left a 'dimple'. No problem on the old tires but not good for the new ones. Any help would be appreciated. Please stay tuned for a thread from me asking for information on what new updraft carburetor would be best for replacing an original so that I may tour with my 1909 Regal next year. I really need help on this one! Tom.

With my business dead due to increased interest rates I find I have the time to get to work on my brass-era cars. I have to change tires on four cars (3 with 36 x 4 1/2 tires and one with 34 x 4). All have rims with lock rings. This appears to be a daunting task. Yesterday, while looking through a 1915 Dykes book, I found that there were tools known as tire bead breakers. I went to eBay and lo and behold there was a Ken-Tool T-200 Tire Bead Breaker. Just what I needed but with only 30 seconds to go. Needless to say, I lost it as I did not even have time to log in. So, does anyone have a such a tool they would sell me? I really need one as I do not quite have the strength I used to have and this many tires to change will be a feat no doubt. Please contact me at edfors@charter.net. Thank you indeed! Thomas.

I am seeking a good drivable brass-era Franklin. Please contact Thomas at edfors@charter.net and please include a photo, if possible, and your asking price. Thank you indeed!

I am in need of some information and help. My 1909 Regal has a Schebler Model R that was added sometime in the teens replacing an apparent Model D. A few years ago the float broke up and I cut a new one out of cork, sealed it and installed it. That proved to be trouble. After that, the car would start and run fine but leak terribly when shut off. After numerous (seems like hundreds) times of removing the bowl and adjusting the float I have solved the leak problem (I think) but now the car simply will not start. I have all the literature from the era that instructs how to set up an R but the car will not start (good spark so that is not the problem). This is a crank start car so I am getting a very sore right arm. Does anyone run their car with a Model R and if so, can you help me set up this one so I may drive the Regal. We are supposed to be on a tour a week from Wednesday but I now doubt we shall make it. The other question, and I have asked this to many brass-era car friends with no definitive answer, is there a modern carburetor (or even a different antique one) that one can purchase to replace the R? I did try a Zenith Universal but it leaks gas every time the engine is shut off and apparently is supposed to (instruction sheet said it can leak up to 1/4 cup of gasoline-no good). I am hoping I just do not have the Model R adjusted right. If you can help, I will greatly appreciate it. Thank you. Thomas Edfors. edfors@charter.net

I am getting ready to paint my wife's 1936 Cord Westchester and need to know where one can purchase the correct Rich Maroon paint. I will be doing the painting myself (something I have not done for a decade or so) and would also like to know what paint may now be available for a 'do it yourselfer'. Please contact me at edfors@charter.net. Thank you indeed! Thomas Edfors

Hello Carbking. I would prefer to have a better Zenith carb on the Regal but where do I find one? The 12566 was all I could find and it too leaks. The instructions warn that it can leak up to 1/4 cup of gas, and it does! If there is another Zenith available that will not leak (a few drips may be typical) I would like to know where to get one. The tour is less than four weeks away and I have yet o find a solution to this problem. I am also a bit nervous that you say you would not use a Model R or an L as the other three brass ears cars I am getting back to life all have Model L's. I have been 'collecting' these early cars since high school back in 1967, when they were 'cheap' but with the economy we are in now, I doubt I could afford to buy three more carbs. I will have to make the L's work but they seem to be a better carburetor than the R. Quick note, the R on the Regal was fine, many miles of touring, and it did not leak until a new cork float was installed. It is much more buoyant then the original cork so it has upset the settings. The seat is indeed machined in, no adjustment there, so it has to be the float adjustment. Alas, where I live I am the only brass era car 'nut' so I am on my own. Thank you for help though, I do appreciate it.

This has been a very interesting discussion but I am left with the same problem. I have taken the new Zenith off and put it on the shelf for a future project. Back to the Schebler, I'll have to make it work. I know not if it is original but it was on the Regal when I got it and the car was unrestored. The question I now have is, how does one adjust the float. Is there a technique? It may be the leaking after the engine is shut off simply may be a wrong adjustment of the new float allowing fuel to leak out the nozzle but it is hard to tell where the nozzle tip is within the brass body of the carb. I have adjusted many floats over the years but never on a Schebler R which seems different than the others. Any recommendations? Tom

Greetings Layden. The carb catalog shows one of each Schebler I have, the D is on a highwheel IHC and I have the L's on a '10 IHC J-30 and '12 Buick. The Model R on the Regal had worked fine until the original cork float broke to pieces on a tour. A new modern material float was made and installed and that is when the trouble began. While the carburetor would not leak when the gas was turned one (gravity feed) after the engine was run it would leak, no pour, gasoline out. This would happen every time with no leak upon opening the fuel valve, a good run of the engine and than gas pouring out the bottom. I have tried new floats, new needles, a new seat, etc to no avail. Other car people from the area (few for brass cars) have looked at it and said 'no idea'. I even contacted various carb rebuilders who said they wanted nothing to do with a Schebler Model R. Thus the purchase of the Zenith. I have found another Model R for sale (more than I would like to pay) but I am thinking I am just buying another old carb that eventually will have to be rebuilt. I'll try hooking up the Schebler's hot air tube (or make one) and see if that works. Thank you for your help. Tom

Hello Layden. Thank you for continued input. I must admit this is a bit frustrating as I need to get the Regal on the road. I know I have a tractor carburetor, which was recommended by a few other car friends, but no one told me the amount of fuel it would leak. I found out after its installation. It does make the car run better however and it likes hills better. But the problem still remains. If I retain this Zenith, can I minimize or somehow stop the leakage? Otherwise, I have to find another replacement carburetor or find an original Schebler Model R (which I will advertise for). I understand the technical issues with carburetors but what I need now is a concrete solution that will get the Regal back on the road. By the way, the original Schbeler began to pour gasoline (not a float problem) and the usual carburetor rebuilders do not want, for some reason, to touch the Model R. After 103 years (it began it's problems last year) it appears to have broken somehow.

The Schebler Model R carburetor original to my 1909 Regal has given up. Thus, I want to buy a functional Schebler Model R and as soon as possible as I need to run the Regal on a tour late may. Please contact me at edfors@charter.net. Other Scheblers may work, perhaps even other makes of brass carburetors (although I would prefer the Model R). Please let me know what you have available. Thank you. Thomas Edfors

The original Schebler has am original flexible tube that took hot air from around the exhaust pipe for heat but, what I now have a brand new Zenith 12566 Universal Updraft and that is now what is on the car. I do not think a modern carburetor requires the heat the old one did. I think some of the problem may be the additional 4 inches of manifold. In any event, the amount of fuel that dips out is more than I am comfortable with even though the instruction sheet with that came with it states that up to 1/4 cup of fluid is to be expected. Anyone have a suggestion as to another brand and model of a replacement carburetor. Someone must have replaced there original carburetor and is touring with a more modern replacement. Tom

Thank you Layden B and Motoringicons for your input. Layden, how would I increase the carburetor heat? This new replacement Zenith sits an additional 4" under the original manifold as a manifold adaptor had to be used to get it away from the magneto. The bottom of this carburetor now is about at the bottom of the crankcase. That is why I considered a way to 'catch' the drips as anything and for that would be low and away from the engine and exhaust pipe and would even be cooled by fan air when the engine was restarted. I saw something like this back in the late 60's on a 1911 Maxwell but I did not take a photo and am relying on memory which is not always as clear as it should be. Anyway, it appears that a Zenith 12566 is deigned to leak up to 1/4 cup of gas (says so on the instruction sheet) which to me seems way too much and I am sure hotel parking lots and gas stations will not be happy with that much on their asphalt. I get a quick stream and then 10 drips every time the engine is turned off. If I could find a way to fix the original Schebler Model R I would put is back one but no one seems to want to touch this model Schebler. So assuming the Zenith will always drip gas, is there a way to minimize the amount that drips out? Other than that, anyone have a carburetor that will work on a four cylinder 201 cubic inch engine? Tom.

Perhaps some more information would be of help. My original Schebler Model R is not working (anyone have a functional Model R for sale?) so after some advice I purchased a Universal Zenith (Model 12566) and mounted it using a four inch manifold adaptor. The carburetor sits low almost to the bottom of the engine. Fuel feed is gravity. After installing it, and seeing the fine print of the instructions, it is designed to leak out fuel that condenses on the manifold walls. There is a drain at the bottom. It makes the motor run well, better than the Schebler did, but when I shut off the engine, there is quite a lot of gas that leaks out. I guess this answers my question about leaking, it is normal for the Zenith. Now the question is, can an adaptor or reservoir be made to capture this fuel safely so that it does not leak upon the ground. If so, can someone tell me (provide directions) and how to make one? I need to solve this somehow soon as I have promised to be on a tour in later May with this car. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thomas Edfors. edfors@charter.net

For those of you with brass era cars with updraft carburetors, when shutting off after running either for a short time or a long drive, is it typical/normal for there to be eight to ten (maybe more) drips of gas to leak out? I find that occurs on my 1909 Regal with the original Schebler Model R and even with a new universal Zenith I put on. Is this something to be concerned about and is it a safety issue? I hope to take the Regal on some tours this year. Please let me know of your experiences driving your brass era car with an updraft carburetor. Thanks. Tom Edfors. edfors@charter.net