AVS619

Sad news indeed. I bought our 1902 CDO over twenty-five years ago and joined the CDO club straight away. Always wanted one but knew not how to run or drive it. Gary was so helpful in teaching me, via the phone, how to care and feed a CDO. I have always looked forward to the next newsletter he edited. He will be missed indeed by me and the hobby. He and his family will be in my prayers. Tom Edfors

Seeking brass-era cars for the 2016 Milwaukee Concours d'Elegance (formerly the Milwaukee Masterpiece but under new management). See Horseless Carriage (Pre-1916) under Other Vehicles below for more information.

Hello, I am seeking brass-era automobiles for the new Milwaukee Concours d'Elegance (formerly known as the Milwaukee Masterpiece but now under new management). The show date is August 28th but other activities start earlier. Looking for all types of brass-era cars such as high wheelers, unusual examples, large horsepower cars, restored and unrestored cars and anything else with brass. Contact me at brasscars@charter.net. Deadline for registration is April 30th and there is some limitations to the number of brass-ear cars to be selected so please contact me soon. I plan on showing an unrestored, original 1912 Buick Model 28. Hope to hear from you soon! Thomas Edfors

Seeking a 1914 or '15 Briscoe Motorcar (single headlight model). Prefer roadster and a good original, unrestored car but any and all will be considered. Please send email with photo and price to brasscars@charter.net.

After hearing a lot of discussion about oil in antique cars I was wondering if anyone can suggest the best type (brand and viscosity) for a 1923 Rolls-Royce Twenty (20). It is time to put it away for winter and I need to make sure I use proper oil for not only winter storage (in a heated building) but also for use. This is actually my wife's car but I am supposed to take care of it. I will appreciation any information. Thank you very much indeed. Tom

My Remy Type L magneto no longer functions properly. Fires on only number two and three cylinders but no spark on one and four. First, is anyone familiar with a Remy Type L magneto that would talk with me about them? I am sure someone has worked on a Type L and could save me from trying to 'reinvent the wheel' as it were. Is there anyone who knows magnetos who would repair work on this one? I know there are magneto repair people out there, just do not know them at present. This Remy is one of the older models (is original on my 1909 Regal) and is made of brass and bronze, no pot metal. Finally, I am looking for a complete Type L magneto and/or a parts Remy L (the main problem on mine seems to be within the points 'house', as Remy calls it) or at least I would be interested in the points parts. A magneto is not something I have any experience with so I do need help on this one. Please contact me at brasscars@charter.net or call me at 920-648-3067. Thank you indeed! Thomas.

Hello bugged. Thank you indeed for the information, I appreciate it. Yes John at ATS and Mike at Zenith are great and very helpful. They spent quite a bit of time with me on the phone teaching me and helping me select a possible carburetor. But they left it up to me to pick which throat size to use and which mm venture to select. I am not sure if a 1/8th total or 1/4 total drop in throat diameter will make much difference as the modern carbs are more efficient than the original but the venture size make me unsure. Am I wrong in thinking that if the venture is 'big' (say the 24mm but even the 21mm) that this could be 'corrected' by adjusting the needle valve to lean it out a bit to compensate for the little more fuel? That is what I think is correct but I could be wrong. Any advice?

I am still learning to adjust the Schebler Model L on the 1910 IHC -30. The tour is two weeks from today. It has been recommended to me to get a modern Zenith universal carburetor either to replace the Schebler or as a back-up. So, I talked with John at Auto Test Systems and Mike Framer at Zenith but I am left a bit confused. It appears that one of two models should work, a 14998 267 -10 or a model 14996 267 - X9. Both will fit my bolt hole pattern although both have a throttle bore a bit less than the bore of the intake manifold. The 144998 is about 1/8th smaller and the the other about 1/4 smaller. What I do not understand is the venturi sizes. the 14998 has a 24mm size and the 14996 is 21 mm. Both they say are bigger than what they say would be best for a four cylinder 4 in bore and 4 inch stroke running at about 1500 to 1800 RPM max(?) which would be about 18mm. OK, that left me in the dark. Can anyone shed light on what they are talking about and can anyone recommend which model to order, the 14998 267-10 or the 14996 267-X9? I really want to tour with this car in the next few weeks and many time in the future. Thank you in advance.

Hello Again. Once more, thank you for the information. I am up here in Wisconsin and Bob Knaack (did I spell that right?) put the new leather on. The car is running on the mag and from all I can tell there is good spark. I think it boils sown to a carburetor issue. It has a Schebler Model L. The car runs good at idle and runs well when adjusting as per the instructions. As I put it in gear an engage the clutch, it looses power and does not want to proceed. twice I have had it backfire in first which tends to give it a moment of power and then back to loss of power. I do have more to test over the weekend. Please see my new post regarding a possible replacement carburetor. Thank you all again for your help.

Thank you both for your replies. I have been at a thresheree but was able to get a 1915 Dykes and adjusted the carburetor as indicated. It seems to run fine at idle and will speed up without backfires or the like when using the hand throttle but, when I get in the seat, put it in first gear and use either the foot or hand throttle it looses power when the clutch engages. It will not proceed. Once it did backfire and for a brief moment there was some power after but as I tried to shift into second it again lost power as the clutch engaged. Am I looking at something more serious than just a carburetor not adjusted correctly? I must solve this as in two weeks we will be hosting the tour and I hate to be the host and then have to use a modern car.

I now have the 1910 IHC J-30 running, although the Schebler Model L carburetor is giving me grief as I can not seem to get it adjusted correctly, but sadly the car does not seem to have power and the clutch seems to be weak. I had the cone relined in leather but what I appear to need is a crash course in adjusting a cone clutch. I know there are little adjustments around the cone to adjust the leather but also three large springs that hold the cone in place. How can I adjust the clutch? Right now the car would not climb a little hill and the tour coming up (and I am the host) has great big hills. Please, a quick run through on cone clutches and if you know anything about Schebler carburetors, or what a good modern replacement would be, please let me know. You can also reach me at brasscars@charter.net. Help me get this car to get through a three day tour. Thanks.

I need some advice (and rather soon as I have a tour coming up). I have a 1910 J-30 IHC touring that has finally come back to life after a lot of work. It has a more or less standard (for the era) four cylinder 30 hp engine. The engine may have been restored in the 1960's. It has a few rattles I do not like but my main question is what type and grade oil is best for a brass-era car of this type. Also, the front gear case (timing gears, etc) appears separate from the engine lubrication. I assume this should be a thicker oil if not a pourable grease. Any suggestions? I hope to put about five-hundred miles on it this September and I do not want to do it any harm. So, I would love to hear from those of you who also tour in brass-era cars and let me know what you use. Thank you very much indeed!

Hello Again. Were we out of town and yesterday got to see the Brewers loose. First time I have been to the ballpark and they loose! The T is getting a taillight but should be ready to drive soon, Unless I get some more responses, I shall stick with the12v battery for starting. Our tour will hub in Lodi with runs to sites in Baraboo, Mt Horeb and near the Dells. Interesting places to see. If you, or anyone else is interested let me know. This is a joint HCCA region and AACA region tour open to pre-1916 cars as it is a brass-era car tour. Oh, I do not know a Mr. Paul Kohlwey. He must live in a different area.

Hello Cahartley. Yes, the magneto appears to work. We had the car running once but did not try to start it on the mag as some said I could. I am asking as I was told that a 12v could damage the coils. I plan on only using the battery to start the car and than switch to mag as I do my other brass era cars, although the T appears to be a different animal from other brass era cars (this is my first T). Oh, where are you located? I am not too far east from Madison off I-94. Interested in joining our tour here in Wisconsin (late September) near Lodi? Any other brass era car owners are quite welcome. This will be a three day tour with many interesting sites to see.

I have my 1915 Runabout ready to try with new coils. The car came with a used 12 volt car battery. Is it OK to run a T on a 12 volt car battery (to start and then switch to mag) or would a 6 volt be better/safer? I don't want to damage the new coils by using the wrong voltage.

I am looking for a series 80 carburetor for my wife's 1925 Runabout. I would prefer one that is working and can just be put on for running but parts carburetors may help if the entire float and needle valve mechanism is intact. I am also interested in knowing if anyone has put a modern carburetor on their Series 80. A replacement carburetor may be the best way to go. So if you put on a modern replacement, would you please let me know what kind of carburetor you used and where to get one? We have promised her car for a benefit in early August and I need to get it running before July runs out Thank you indeed! Well, it seems my first attempt a this post actually got posted. When I went to send it I got error messages (my computer is getting a bit old) and assumed that it did not post. So I wrote another one. Sorry, that is why it is here twice. I also did not put in my direct email address which is brasscars@charter.net.

I am looking for a Series 80 Pierce-Arrow carburetor for my wife's 1925 Runabout. I would prefer a working one but parts carburetors may help if the entire float and needle valve mechanism is intact. I would also like to know if anyone has replaced their original Series 80 carburetor with a modern replacement. If so, please let me know what carburetor it is and where you purchased it. We have volunteered her car for a benefit in early August and I have to solve this problem (getting the car running) before July runs out. Thank you indeed!

This is an easy one. Both cars are Ramblers. The top right one is a 1905 or 1906 Type I and the bottom left is a 1904 rear entrance tonneau. I have been looking for a 1905 or '06 for years now. If anyone has one they are no longer interested in let me know.

Those headlights are great but I would think earlier than 1909 (any experts out there that know more about these lamps?). I have seen these type of lamps on original photos from 1907 and 1908 on some Buicks so maybe not too much earlier than 1909. They most likely gave out more light than the original 1909 Regal lamps. The headlamps on my Regal have no name but the side and tail lights are E & J's. The side lights on the Regal in the photo look like the E & J's on my car.

My 1909 has the name Regal in script stamped into the radiator and I also have the brass script that I have yet to put on the front of the radiator as I can not seem to find brass screws long and/or thin enough to go through the radiator. The car in the picture has both. I now believe that the car in the picture is a 1909 Model 30. My Regal is stored at my mother's house (she is 92 and in a rehabilitation center due to a broken leg so I get to use her garage as I try to get three other brass cars worked on and maybe even running). However, the next time I get over there I will take a photo of the stamped script and try to post it.

The first car is a Regal. It says so on the radiator. It appears to be a 1909 or perhaps an early 1910 Model 30. I have a 1909 Regal and except for the headlights (those on the car in the photo appear earlier and not Regal) the car looks the same as mine.

Well, I finally have my 1915 Model T Runabout running after it had slept for many decades. Now that it actually runs my question is, what is the best oil type and grade to use in it. I am not up on oils but I am aware that zinc is gone from most oils. Where can one get oil that would have a zinc content for early cars? Any suggestions? Oh, what type of spark plugs is good for a driver? Thank you!

I am interested in acquiring a 1930 or maybe '31 Model A Sport Coupe. Prefer Midwest location (Illinois, Wisconsin or Iowa). Need a good driver that looks good but does not have to be a show car by any means, an old restoration would most likely be fine. I am also past restoring another car so it needs to be ready to drive more or less 'as is'. Please reply by email to brasscars@charter.net. I would appreciate it if you would email a photo or two and let me know your asking price. Thank you indeed.

My first thought is that you I have set your sights a bit too high. If you are going that route why not desire a Mercer Raceabout (I do). I am with Wayne Sheldon. I have a brass era collection but started in the mid-1960's with a Model T and then Model A. They were restored and sold and I moved on to brass. Every car was in poor shape and with sweat and tears I restored it and used the money to move up. This still can be done. The question is, what do you want a brass-era car for? Do you want to tour in it or use it for shows and gathering trophies? There is a big difference in price and cost. If you are serious about a brass-era car, I would suggest joining the Horseless Carriage Club of America (HCCA) and start learning all you can about these cars. You may be surprised to find out that the 'upper' end cars may not be the best to drive (my thing is touring). Where do you live? Find out of there are any brass-era tours in your area (if you are near Wisconsin I'll tell you one that will happen here next fall) and come see the cars and talk to their owners. You will find that a good number of them area not rich (some not by a long shot), but almost all are friendly and many wives are part of it, including mine who is out in the garage with me polishing brass and making gaskets. My other suggestion is get a brass Model T. Good starter car with parts available. See if you like the hobby before setting your sites higher. Like Wayne I have seen my income decline significantly in this economy. I have not sold my best cars (yet) but may have to. Nothing is easy in life. By the way, I get this from the other side. When I do drive or display a car I have people (typically younger people) come up and ask what they are worth (first question) and how did I get so rich to own them? This is not (for me) about money or how big of an income one has, it is about history and the people who love history, and in this hobby it is through the cars. Be patient, do you homework, save money and try a pre-1916 Model T. Who knows, you may get know some of us 'older' collectors well enough that some day one them will leave you one of their 'junk' when they pass.

I finally found the 1915 Model T Roadster I was looking for. I would very much like to have one of the running board mount double spare tire carrier that holds one 30 x 3 and one 30 x 3 1/2 tire. The car is quite original so cosmetic appearance not that important. If you have one you do not need please contact me at brasscars@charter.net and let me know what you have and price. A photo or two would help. Thank you! Tom