AVS619

Need a good, functional Series 80 or 81 carburetor but would also purchase any parts carburetors. Also need a Series 80 distributor.

I had issues with the friction drive on my 1909 Sears. I found they were originally made by Paper Pulleys, Inc. Looking them up on the Internet I found them to be still in business, so I bought a new friction wheel from them just like the original. In conversation they mentioned they also made a Metz friction wheel. You may want to look them up on the Internet or email them at info@paperpulleys.com. I think that email address is still correct.

I do not own a Metz anymore but had owned two in the past. What is the issue with your friction drive?

This may be a strange question but is there a way, or a company, that can tell if paint on a car is original. My wife's 1936 Cord has crazed, and cracking rich maroon paint and I planned on repainting it, but some who have seen the car have said that may be original paint. If it is original, I'll keep the car as is, but I would like to find out for sure. There are some chips that could be tested. Any ideas"

Has anyone replaced an original Series 80 carburetor with a modern one and, if so, what did you use?

I need a pair of two-tier E & J lamps for my IHC J-30. Would actually prefer a pair of new reproduction lamps (if any are still around) or excellent originals, ready to mount. I don't have the time for restoration work right now. Please send photos and let me know your price. Thanks.

Looking for a fully functional Series 80 carburetor for my wife's 1925. I would also be interested in Series 80 parts carburetors.

I've been asked if whitewall tires would have been available in 1911. I thought tires in 1911 would have been all-white or a light grey and that whitewalls were not 'invented' until 1914 or so. Does anyone know if whitewall tires could have been uses on a 1911 car in 1911?

My first brass-era car and my first restoration was a 1912 Metz. That was the late 1960's. I would like one again. If anyone, now or in the future, has a 1912-14 Metz Model 22 and is willing to give it a good home please contact me. I would prefer an unrestored car, if that is possible, or an old restoration. Thanks!

Thank you for all of you who replied and those who did so recently. My wife has given me plastic wrap and I found a gallon of Strypeeze (new formula) but I am going to wait for warmer weather so I can use the stripper outside. In the meantime, there is a lot more to do. I was hoping to get the Oakland done this year but the IHC J-30 will still take longer. My wife, Joyce, found it (a real barn find) and bought it for me for my fortieth birthday. I won't say how old I am now but I am on Medicare. The Oakland was here before I met Joyce. Life got in the way but now it is time to finish them. Thank you all again for your suggestions!

Thank you for the additional comments. All have been helpful.

Thank you all for your replies. The two sets of wheels are entirely different. The Oakland wheels had the wood replaced in the 1970's and then varnished and the IHC wheels are original. I found some Strypeeze but t seems to be the new formula and while it does some removal, it seems it will take a gallon for each wheel. I will try some aircraft stripper but will that affect my ability to varnish the Oakland wheels again rather than paint? The IHC wheels will be painted. One more question, I have to take all the paint off my wife's 1936 Cord so I can repaint it. Will aircraft stripper work there too?

I am at last doing some serious work on my two restorations, a 1912 Oakland and 1911 IH J-30. Over the weekend I set up the wheels to restore and refinish them but had a surprise. I have not taken paint off an antique part for about forty years so I was surprised to find that the paint stripper I bought at the local hardware store just sat there on the varnish (on the Oakland and put on about 45 years ago before I bought the car) and the original yellow paint on the IHC wheels. It seemed to sit there mocking me. After the amount of time the directions told me to leave it, nothing much happened. My memory from years ago was using Strypeeze (I think that was what is was called) and the paint/varnish just bubbled up and could be scraped off, no problem. What happened? Since hardware paint remover does not work, any suggestions on what will? In the end I will have 12 wheels to strip as I need to also do a 1910 IHC high wheel. If you have any suggestions please let me know, I will appreciate it.

Hello alsfarms! Thanks for the reply. Can you recommend one?

I am restoring a 1911 IHC J30 touring that was pulled from a barn in 1991. Yes, I've owned it that long but life got in the way and has resulted in a very slow restoration. I have discovered that one rear leaf spring set has cracked springs. I need one complete rear spring set. There are seven leaves top and on the bottom and the leaves had tags or dog ears. I have seen many IHC high wheel springs but they are not the same as those used on a J30. Can anyone help? I'll see if I can post a photo of the good rear spring set but I can't use my right arm due to surgery and can't get the spring off the shelve for a photo. I'll see if I can get some help but wanted to get my wanted need out as soon as possible.

Thank you all for your help and suggestions. Looks like a lot of tedious work ahead of me (good thing I retired!) but this car is worth it. My wife bought it for my 40th birthday and that was quite some time ago (real life often gets in the way) and it was a real barn find (see photo). All the mechanics, brass and sheet metal have been restored and now down to the 'smaller' bits. It has been more than forty years since I did this sort of work and I appreciate the advice!

I am not sure this is the correct place to post but I need some help in the restoration of my 1911 IHC J-30. I have returned to work on it after long absence (hard to do at present as I can not use my left hand due to surgery but it has to get done). Attached is a factory photo of the car and photos of representative problems. Most metal parts, after de-rusting and cleaning, are pitted. The car sat from 1921 to 1991 and anything metal not covered in grease or oil got pits. Even the nuts and bolts are pitted. My question is, what is the best kind of filler to use to fill the pits before painting? My promise to the original owners family was that I would use all the original parts, with a few safety exceptions. So, I need to fill, sand and prime them but need to know the best product for this. Thank you in advance!

Starvagabond, can you tell me what a V-3 engine is? I have had a number of IHC's, currently have three but only one high wheel, and I have never heard of a V-3 engine. The water cooled two-cylinder engine on this one looks correct to me. Mine is very similar except air-cooled. Also, why would this car vehicle depreciate? There appears to be quite a demand for high wheel automobiles right now. If I did not have three IHC's I would bid on it in a heartbeat.

Well, just to put my two-cents in on the topic the Golden Age for me was about 1966 to 1980. I joined AACA and HCCA at age 15 in late 1966 and would attend the Lake Forest and Momence car shows every year, among many others. The show fields were full of brass-era cars, my favorite, as well as twenties and thirties cars including classic cars. It felt like it took all day just to walk through the show cars let alone looking for parts at the vendors and yes, most vendors were in the hobby, not professionals. Back then, to a young me, the car shows were like Christmas, my birthday and the Fourth of July all rolled into one. I do miss that time. The shows have really changed over the years and I rarely go now. But, my wife and I have gotten into touring with our brass-era cars (indeed, we are hosting a four day tour here in Wisconsin next week if the weather will permit) so I guess if I were to focus only on touring this would be our Golden Age. Still, I would like to acquire some more brass-era cars but now that I am retired, the prices they bring will not allow that to happen.

The side and tail lamps of my 1911 IHC J 30 are in poor condition but original to the car. They are a brand I don't know of, the Indiana Lamp Co in Connersville, Ind. Before I purchase reproduction E & J's, is there anyone who restores these lamps other than Rick Britten. I have nothing against Rick, his work is impeccable, but I can't afford his prices now that I had to retire. If you know of anyone, or you restore them yourself, please let me know. Thank you indeed!

Thank you to everyone that replied. I had never thought of a jump starter. I'll have to look into that and I appreciate the battery information too. Sorry for my delay in thanking everyone. Got sidetracked which is leading up to an MRI on Wednesday. I don't have a starter on may car so I crank start it. I am right handed and now my right shoulder is an 'issue' and with four days of touring coming up, I've got to get this fixed. Thank you all again!

On my last tour with a 1909 Regal my12v battery gave out on the last day (3 day tour). The battery is used to start the car (hand crank) then switch to magneto. It is also connect to the brake lights and turn signals but that is all. I noticed that the indicator lights on the tum signal switch were growing dimmer and after the stop for lunch, the batter was dead and I could not crank start the car. I got a jump from a more modern car (1960) and made it back to the trailer. The battery I was using was a lawn tractor battery about three years old but fully charged at the start of the tour. Now I have a four day tour coming up and would like to know what kind of battery others use so I can replace this one with one that will take four days of touring. Again, the battery is only used to start the car (switch set to B) then run on magneto (switch moved to M) and is used to power the run signals and bake lights. Would s 12v Optima be a good choice? Should I use two batteries? Are there any batteries out there that are not a heavy as a lead-acid battery? I could use some advice. My wife was a bit unhappy that once again we did not finish a tour. The four day tour is being hosted by us so the car not making it would be a real issue.

Join The Wheelmen. I am always looking for high wheel, hard- tired and other early safeties and since my wife has a 1925 Pierce Arrow, I would love to have a Pierce bike. Send me a message if you have anything for sale now or in the future.

Hi Tim. I did not now that you bought Dave's stuff. Please let me know when you have this up and running. Dave was going to make up one that has an alternator or generator in it to charge the battery but alas, that never happened. Email me at brasscars@charter.net when you have some for sale.

Hello. Thank you for your replies. I have been looking into this for quite some time, I live close to where it occurred in Jefferson County, but what eludes me is the actual route. A very crude drawing of the route is available and suggests that the two went through Fort Atkinson and Milton but no real proof yet as to what road was taken. Local papers and historical societies have not been too helpful so far but I have not been able to go and try to research their archives. I'll keep working on it but had hoped that out there somewhere was some data that someone already found. Thank you again for your responses.