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Ken G

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  1. Just to say that I have a very similar carb on my 1925 Rover 16/50 (Stromberg OS-2); it looks very similar to your picture and it too has a bronze body. I haven't noticed any "warp" on the mounting flange, but I wouldn't expect the bronze to have deteriorated or warped in any way, so if there is curvature I think it is deliberate. However, be warned that the venturis inside are probably pot metal (at least, mine are), which will almost certainly have crystallized and swollen, with the result that it is impossible to remove them without breaking them (and they are very brittle). So if they are
  2. A friend has just died. He owned a 1937 Daimler Light Straight Eight which is supposedly in good running order except that I hear there is a serious oil leak from the Wilson Preselect gear box and the car is standing on probably flat tires. However, it hasn't been out for several years. It is in a garage in Moraga, California, about 20 miles east of San Francisco. My friend's widow will probably want to sell. For the only other one of this model that I could find on the internet (it is very rare), on sale in Switzerland, the asking price was in the neighborhood of 50,000 dollars. Is anyone on
  3. To reinforce my remarks of somewhat earlier in this string, the owner's manual for my 1925 Rover says: 1. Under normal conditions, provided that the lamps and starter are used a fair amount, the battery should be kept on charge all the time during the winter and about half the day-time running in the summer. 2. Always keep the left-hand switch pointing to 'D' when the head lamps are in use. (That is the charging position; D for dynamo). 3. If the car is used for long tours in the day-time it is quite unnecessary to keep the charging switch 'on' all the time, as this will cause overcharging of
  4. Nobody clearly explained the property of a 3rd brush generator. Once the engine is running at more than idle, the generator delivers substantially the same current (number of amps) irrespective of engine speed. The manufacturer's intention was that that current was sufficient to supply all that could be turned on (mainly lights, of course) and the excess current went into charging the battery. Thus if most of the driving is by day with no lights, the battery gets overcharged and boils dry. Hence there is normally a switch that turns on the generator, sometimes with two different current ch
  5. As a postscript, my Rover has a three-terminal generator ("dynamo") and indeed the voltage goes sky-high if the battery is disconnected. I remember one journey in the 1950s when for some reason we had no battery, and my father briefly pressed the horn button; the Klaxon produced an extraordinarily high pitch! Thus any high resistance in the leads to/from the battery or in the battery itself will mean that the lights and anything else electrical will receive a higher voltage than intended (assuming the charging is on; on my car you have a choice of charge or no charge). Bulbs will not stand t
  6. Have you tried http://www.thecarburetorshop.com? They have bits and pieces for early Stromberg carburetors. Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
  7. Just to echo others' comments, a vacuum fuel pump works fine (mine is an Autovac but it is very similar to a Stewart), provided there are no leaks in the vacuum lines. I once removed the vacuum-operated windshield wipers leaving the tiny pipe end open, took my girlfriend's 93 year old mother for a spin, and five miles down the road the engine stopped. No fuel! And yes, to make the pump work again, I had to prime it by removing the feed pipe and pouring gasoline in. However, enlarging on a point made by someone else, unlike an electric pump which obviously doesn't deliver fuel under pressure
  8. Ken G

    Tire sizes

    Ivan, Thank you. I don't think I am encouraged to try the wrong sized tires until or unless I am forced to it, and I doubt that I will be in my lifetime with the few miles I put on the car. However, something else has surfaced in the past day. One of the other cars of this model, undergoing restoration in New Zealand, has 21 inch wheels, and they appear otherwise identical in design so I think they are original. I can only imagine either that Rover offered the option or that the smaller engined 14/45 had the smaller wheels and the larger 16/50 (my car) had the larger ones. The point is th
  9. Ken G

    Tire sizes

    I guess this is a silly question, but I'll ask all the same. A friend and I both own Rover 16/50s from the mid-1920s (two of only a handful of survivors, and mine the only one in North America). We are in touch with several other people who are restoring this model. The cars have pressed steel "artillery" wheels of 22 inch diameter. Originally the tires were (I think) 5.25-22, with tubes of course. Today the only available 22 inch tires are 6.00-22, which fit on the wheels. They obviously have a slightly larger outside diameter, which increases the already wide turning circle (by the need
  10. Dave, Have you tried http://www.thecarburetorshop.com? They have information and I think in some cases parts for a large variety of antique carburetors, and although the list of brochures available does not list UR2, they may have it or something very similar. You might also try Jon Hardgrove at tech@thecarburetorshop.com. Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 with a Stromberg OS-2 (San Francisco)
  11. What about NoVa, the name that had to be changed for Spanish-speaking markets? I have always been surprised at Mustang, a wild, untamed and therefore unpredictable horse. Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (no problems with that model name!), San Francisco
  12. I'm sorry, Ron, but that is not the whole truth. Yes, if the problem is an intermittent or permanent open-circuit, simple resistance tests will reveal it, and hot/cold tests might be more revealing. However: a) The present problem might well lie, indeed is more likely to lie, in the secondary, that is, the high-voltage winding, and that would not alter the resistance of the primary (low-voltage) one which would be correct. A short-circuited turn (as I say, more likely on the secondary) would have negligible affect on the resistance measured with a meter (of either the primary or the secon
  13. I know nothing about Cadillacs and prefer magneto ignition (!) but an ignition coil is nothing but a large-ratio transformer. If the internal insulation has broken down, either on the low-voltage side or more likely on the high-voltage side, it might have a short-circuited turn. That would greatly reduce the spark, although perhaps you would still get enough for the engine to run, but it would almost certainly lead to excessive dissipation i.e. heat in the coil. It would be interesting to know what the average current consumption is (measured with a good old-fashioned analog meter because t
  14. This seems so simple a need, and yet I cannot find a supplier on the internet. My Rover needs 6 US gallons, yes gallons, of oil (common to the engine, gearbox and clutch). I am getting tired of buying oil in quarts at the quart price (have you tried emptying 24 little bottles!); I used to be able to buy 1 gallon bottles, but even they appear to be longer available except in 10-30. I want to purchase a drum of 20-50 oil; I see that 60 liter drums exist, but the distributors will only sell to dealers. Can anyone suggest where I can buy a drum of 20-50 at a reasonable price, either across the
  15. Look also at page 25 of the downloadable catalog for the Restoration Supply Company, http://www.restorationstuff.com/Catalog/RSC%20No23%20web3.pdf. They have copper crush washers in a wide variety of sizes. Ken G, 1925 Rover 16/50 (San Francisco)
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