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rlbleeker

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Everything posted by rlbleeker

  1. You can review your answers and see which one you missed; click the little magnifying glass.
  2. Got a 94% the first time, rushed through it. The fan one occured to me after I hit submit and switched my answer on the intake question (sorta ambiguous isn't it?) and got a 98% the second time. Missed the drive type question.
  3. What are you planning to blast? Do you already have a compressor?
  4. Hi Dave, I don't know what model the car was. It is a right hand drive chassis and has a speedster type body now. I'm trying to find some history on the car but not having much luck. I know it spent at least some time in Chile. Would it likely have been bodied in the US? The current body is fairly professional looking but has no data plate that I can find. It appears to be framed in mahogany, which would imply it was built in South America. Some of the hardware, like the door latches look like they may be Buick parts, possibly salvaged from the original body? I am not experienced with early cars, so can't identify bits such as that. Any insight you may have would be appreciated. Ryan
  5. We lost a '67 Skylark to wildfire is '90, saved my '63 Impala. Guy down the street lost a very nice '55 Special. The second one in '96 almost got the shop (with my '61 MGA in it) luckily I was home. Had another one about 3 weeks ago less than 1/2 mile from the house, thankfully the wind pushed it the other way. Our cars now live in all steel buildings which I am confident will survive the next fire.
  6. I've got almost the exact same setup as Dave. I only use the pot blaster if I can't get the part in the cabinet, they really do make a mess. Don't under estimate how much compressor you need. I've got a 7 1/2 HP and it works good, used to have a cheapy 5 HP and it wasn't adequate.
  7. The behavior sound exactly like what my '62 Skylark did when I got it. It was low fluid due to leaking cylinders. Got new cylinders from convertibleparts.com and no problems since.
  8. I think the engine number is 179804. All three numbers (engine, transission, differential) are within about 1000. I'm familiar with the title year issue, my Marquette is titled as a '29.
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1DandyDaves</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Moral to the story. No mater how big you go it is never enough! </div></div> Absolutely true. My shop is 40' x 75', my storage building is 40' x 70' and I've got a 12' x 20' garage for my driver Skylark. The new cars live outside ('96 & '99 Rivs), still got stuff in my dad's barn, got stuff outside that needs cover, and nowhere inside to work on a car.
  10. True, heat is only an issue if your cooling system isn't up to the job. I was reading the manual for my Marquette last night and they had an optional high compression head that raised the ratio to 5.7:1. I wouldn't mind a little more power.
  11. Easiest way to tell if you have a posi is jack up one rear wheel, put the car in neutral and see if you can rotate the tire. If you can't, it's a posi.
  12. So it actually replaces a head bolt? That doesn't seem like a good idea.
  13. Does it have "400" emblems on the rear quarters? My '67 is a "400", which is the 340-4 with the 3 speed auto. It was available in '65 (at least on the LeSabre) as a 300-4 with 3 speed. Mine (the wifes actually) gets up and goes real good. Be careful driving that thing or you won't be able to sell it.
  14. If they are touching, then the extras are rotating the opposite direction. That rules out any ideas that involve them touching the ground.
  15. Looks like my '67, but it's a 340. What does the tag read?
  16. I you are rebuilding the engine anyway, I don't see a downside to raising the compression a bit assuming you can get parts to do so. I don't think strain is an issue if you don't drive it hard. That is, the strain on the crank/rods/pistons during moderate accelleration is pretty much the same regardless of compression. If you routinely took advantage of the expected power increase, that of course might lead to bottom end problems. I'm not familiar with these engines, so don't know how durable the bottom end is. The simplest way to raise compression, like brh said, is a thinner head gasket. Next is decking the block and/or shaving the head, often part of a complete rebuild anyway. Boring increases compression slightly and of course pistons with a dome or greater pin height. Anytime you change any of these things you need to make sure you have adequate valve - piston clearance. Shouldn't be a problem on an engine such as this though.
  17. It's not real noisy, just a bit tinny sound at the front. You can notice it with the car idling if you are standing by it. The sound out the back is fine. Of course, this is a 425, your eight might not be the same. This was a mail order system and it fit fine and the price was reasonable. I can't remember who I got it from, I've used both Waldron and Kepich. When I did the exhaust on my '62 Skylark, I went with steel because I wasn't real happy with the sound of the stainless on the Riv. Also, many head pipes are double walled and I don't know that any of the aftermarket systems are. I didn't notice any additional noise on the Skylark though so I'm marking that up to stainless vs steel.
  18. You can try waldron too. If you are considering stainless, you should know that stainless exhaust is made from lighter material (since it's stronger) and can be noisier than the original steel. I've got a set on one of my '64 Rivs and it's really quite noticeable. Of course it should never rust out.
  19. In general: blue smoke = oil black smoke = fuel white smoke = water Does it have a blueish tinge? Smoke when starting is usually valve guides, under load rings.
  20. Standard oxygen sensor. Narrow band senses about 14:1-15:1 (pretty lean) and switches around .45V for 14.7:1. Wide band senses about 10:1-20:1 and switches around 1V for 14.7:1. The trick would be wiring it in, unless you wanted to buy a whole system.
  21. If you wrap it around a plug wire it doesn't matter how many cylinders you have, it will be correct. If you wrap it around the coil wire (which is what normal tach essentially do) then you have to divide by the number of cylinders.
  22. Fire out the carb in my experience is: a) lean bad timing c) bad intake valve.
  23. I've had a wire on the pickup go bad and cause this kind of behavior. Modules seem like they go bad and stay that way, ie won't start again. Could be coil too. I have "Won't start when it's hot." behavior that was a bad coil, but not with an HEI.
  24. I'd expect there is a fairly fixed amount of energy in a gallon of gas, assuming proper combustion. When burned a portion is converted to mechanical energy (via pistons, crankshaft) and the rest is converted to heat (exhaust, radiator). Assuming mileage increases slightly, which seems likely, then total energy consumed per mile is reduced. With the mechanical requirement being fixed, that should mean less energy converted to heat. Another way to look at it is, in a 4:1 compression motor, on exhaust stroke approximately 1/4 of the exhaust is left in the cylinder (ignoring the finer points of exhaust systems). That remaining exhaust is mixed with the incoming charge, raising it's temperature. If you increase the ratio to 6:1 only approximately 1/6 is left, that's a 66% decrease in residual exhaust gases. That should result in cooler cylinder temperatures throughout the cycle and less demand on the cooling system. All speculation on my part of course.
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