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Everything posted by rlbleeker

  1. I think '96 was first year for Series II SC. Up to 163K on ours, no problems with the engine at all.
  2. If you use tube, .090 is plenty heavy.
  3. I'm not a drag racer, but I expect the height was to improve weight transfer to the rear wheels.
  4. What I always used to do was start the car with the distributor loose (engine warmed up), then advance/retard until you find the spot where it wants to idle the fastest. That's going to be too much advance, so pull it back a little and take it for a drive. If it starts hard when hot, runs hot, or knocks pulling a hill, retard it a bit more. What a particular engine likes usually varies a bit from what's in the book.
  5. It's melting, but still close to 2 feet of snow on the ground. Going to be awhile yet.
  6. Possibly they thought the roof would support the car? A joke gone wrong...
  7. A business coupe has no rear seat.
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: norb</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How does a car know what the air pr. is in every tire ?</div></div> It must use information from the ABS system to calculate it. The pressure will affect the rolling circumference of the tire; so given known speed and wheel RPM it should be able to estimate pressure. Just a guess.
  9. You need to compare the wheelbase and treadwidth. Wheelbase needs to be pretty close or it's going to look funny. Treadwidth you can deal with a bit by changing wheels. From there, it's just fab work (and quite a bit of it) to get good body mounts, bumpers mounted, radiator, etc. You've got to do it right, or it's going to sit high on the frame and look funny again, unless of course you like it that way.
  10. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: rocketraider</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Olds called the color Sunset Mist; not sure what Buick called it.</div></div> A great color, I've got a '62 Jetfire that color. There are so many great Buicks, how could you ever choose? Guess that's why the garage is overflowing.
  11. Here's a (very poor) picture of my '16. It may have been built to race.
  12. I've used DevCon products for similar types of repairs. DevCon
  13. In my experience, it's usually the neutral safety switch. Wiggling the shifter or shifting it out of park and back may fix it, temporary of course. It may start in neutral instead of park also, not sure. I used to start my Impala with a screw driver, just short across the studs on the solenoid. If it's accessible, it's a quick way to check the solenoid. You can bypass the neutral safety switch with a jumper. Be aware that a poor circuit (like a dirty/corroded safety switch) may pass enough current to light a probe or show voltage/continuity on a multi-meter, but not enough current to pull the solenoid.
  14. For normal driving the drums on '60s Buicks are more than adequate. I've never experienced brake fade with any of my cars. If you drive it hard, you might need discs. One problem with drum brakes, is people often don't do them correctly. You can't just buy new shoes and throw them on the car, they must be matched to the drums. Personally, I get tired of the squeaking and warped rotors. Giant discs do look cool on the right car, and I'm putting them on my MGA; just depends on the application.
  15. I would love to see a new 2dr Buick (if we don't I don't know what I'll do when the last gen Rivs run out) but this is NOT it. Don't care for it at all.
  16. Sure, they all have a rhythm to them. When you said it was synchonized, made me wonder. My advice, fo what it's worth, would be drive and get accustomed to it. Don't worry about every little click and rattle it makes. It's a 70 year old motor, unless it's really making some noise, it's probably nothing to worry about. If it changes or starts making a new noise, then you should pay attention. Nice car by the way, we've got a '37 bus coupe.
  17. I wonder if you are describing two different sounds? A pronounced "out of beat" note in the exhaust is often a miss, exhaust valve, or weak cylinder. I assume you've adjusted the valves and done a compression check? I don't have much experience with straight eights, but the one I did play with had chronic exhaust leak problems. That can make a sharp sound, particularly under load, and can change from cold to hot.
  18. If you can cause it at a given RPM (particularly lower RPMs) by getting on the throttle, then it may be preignition "rattle" or "ping". As the names imply, these are sorta hi pitch sounds, not really like a "tick" or "click". Pretty easy to tell if you know what your listening for, but hard to describe unfortunately. Do you hear it at idle or just under load? Does it get louder or quieter when you increase RPMs without load?
  19. I don't know what causes the gray sludge, but I've pulled quite a few valve covers on '60 buicks and they've all have it, so I wouldn't worry about that. I've never been inclined to rebuild a decent motor just for piece of mind, like Tim, I've seen rebuilds that just don't last. What would bother me with this one is you can't turn it over with a breaker bar. Something isn't right there.
  20. Yeah, definitely wouldn't want to break it. Do you think it a salesman sample? A toy? A patent sample? The lathe is a '57 American, so weird that a machine from a Buick factory would end up in my shop. Doesn't look like they used it much. I think the first engine I rebuilt was for a '60 vintage Cub Cadet lawn tractor, dad still has it. I've got a Bradley garden tractor that I used when I was a kid. I agree, a real antique tractor is on steel. A lot easier to take a garden tractor to a show though.
  21. Depending on how much oil you put in you could have increased compression by aiding the rings in sealing, or by mechanically increasing compression. Or it could be a coincidence that it started then. If your option is to pull it, you don't really have anything to lose in trying to get it running a few more times and seeing if it loosens up. You could try the oil thing again, or starting fluid. I wouldn't be real optimistic that it will turn out to be a reliable motor though.
  22. The problem with rods is they are sorta like new cars because they typically use new car drivetrains. It's cool today to drop it on '07 Vette running gear, but in 10 years it isn't cool anymore. So the value drops (or doesn't increase as rapidly) unless you keep updating it. Or you have to wait 50 years till it's a vintage rod for the value to come back up.
  23. Getting back off topic, a few years ago I bought a lathe from a scap dealer with the intent of using it for parts for another lathe I have with a bad gear in the headstock. When I got it home and started looking it over, there's a little brass tag that says "Buick Motor Div". What are the chances of that? Anyway, I put power to it and it runs so nice, I'm gonna clean it up and use it to make more Buick parts!
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