Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rlbleeker

  1. Some battery chargers won't charge a completely dead battery.
  2. Don't these have a rod that runs from the lock down to the switch at the base of the column? Possibly a short in the harness for turn signals and such?
  3. It's an AC fuel pump, it's stamped 855219. I will try and find Antique Auto Parts Cellar.
  4. Anybody know where to get a fuel pump kit for a Marquette?
  5. Yep, I've pulled more than one oil burner apart where you look at the cylinders and think "Wow, look how nice those are!", but they aren't want you want. At 3000+ fpm there are some unexpected forces at work.
  6. Yes, that is exactly what I meant by "under varying loads" - meaning not just idle or cruise, but heavy throttle to get cylinder pressures up. I guess I wasn't real clear there. I get what happens as cylinder walls wear, and if it's puffing a big blue cloud of smoke, I agree, it's time for a rebuild. What I'm skeptical of is that a valve job will turn a non-smoker into a smoker in a short length of time. I've heard this as common wisdom for years, but I've not seen it in my own experiences nor seen an authoritative source for it.
  7. Ring groove depth is generally at least .005" greater than the radial thickness of the ring. To wear "behind" the ring would require the ring to leave the cylinder wall by more than that amount. It is the lower ring landing that wears. This allows the ring to move up and down when the piston changes direction which can lead to broken rings and/or lands. On the compression stroke the ring will already be against the lower land. Compression/combustion pushes the rings out against the cylinder walls, this is why proper ring seating on a new engine requires running under varying loads. I generally agree, leave it alone or do it right. I don't however, hesitate to fix a burnt valve, for example, on an older motor that otherwise appears OK. I've done this many times with good results.
  8. My feeling is that if the valves are worn to the point that it's smoking or not sealing well, then the rest of the motor isn't far behind and that explains most of it. I've heard the increased compression explanation my whole life, but I'm still skeptical. Actually cylinder pressure varies widely as a function of throttle position and engine rpm. If you are cruising down the road at x mph, that requires x lbs of torque, which equates to x psi at a given rpm. Improving your valve sealing isn't going to change that number. Now, improved valve sealing would affect peak cylinder pressure at WOW, and maybe that has an affect if yo drive it that way. I suspect contamination likely also plays a role in many subsequent ring issues.
  9. If it's only low at idle, it's probably an indication that you have some wear, bearings, rockers, etc. You don't really need much pressure at idle though. General rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. I had a '65 Impala with a 283 that the oil light would turn on at idle on hot days, it was old and worn. I ran it that way for years, thousands of miles, no problem. If it's not making noise, I wouldn't worry about it until you are ready to do a full rebuild. Again, that's assuming you have good pressure at speed.
  10. I'm not familiar with 264s, but that really doesn't sound that unusual too me. Typically, you'd have 12-15 degrees vacuum advance, so should idle OK with 5 degrees static. Mechanical should kick in somewhere in the 500-750 rpm range. I usually run a few degrees more than the book says; I'd probably set it at 8 and see how it behaves. If you get too much it will crank hard when hot, rattle under load, or run-on when you shut it off.
  11. It cross references to a Walker 21475, which in 1965 fits Chevy school buses and GMC trucks.
  12. It goes in the Accessory location, the knob looks just like your light switch. I expect a '65 switch is the same, the knob may be different. The switch for a rear power window on a wagon is probably the same also. I don't have a parts book to verify though.
  13. There were not a lot of changes from '96 to '99, I'd simply look at mileage and condition. Black and burgundy are not the most common colors, but if you a bit patient you should be able to find one under 80K for under 6K. We have a '96 and a '99. I get about 30 on the highway, and 20 around town. Town depends a lot on how you drive. Most are pretty much loaded; a sunroof is nice, and they don't all have them. I think the drivetrains are pretty much bullet proof. I've heard that you need to watch out for electrical issues, but I haven't really seen that (been driving one since 2000). I did have to replace the driver window motor though. Our '96 has 170K (had it since 36K) on it with no major issues. I had almost no problems till around 150K, then had to replace struts, a wheel bearing, water pump, etc. I expect to take it to 250K before I give up on it. They are great reliable, comfortable, well performing, economical cars.
  14. A stuck valve doesn't seem likely to me. I'd start by inspecting the plugs, checking compression and timing. Possibly it jumped the timing chain.
  15. When it dies, take the air cleaner off, look straight down the carb and open the throttle. You should see jets to fuel spraying from the throttle pump. If you don't it's fuel supply.
  16. Ideally, the transmission output shaft and the differential input shaft would be exactly parallel. I get them as close as I possibly can. If they are off by too much you'll get a vibration. The engine in my wife Baracuda is out about 1/4" left to right without apparent effect.
  17. They do really well in the snow/ice. I keep a set of cable chains in the trunk, but I've never had to use them.
  18. If the bottom of your spring is flat, then there should be no problem using spacer. You might find a flat washer with an appropriate OD, or you might have to have someone with a lathe make you one. Many spring perches though are molded to fit the spring and a flat spacer would not be a good idea with those. I not aware of any after market spacers that thin. Years ago, I had a local spring shop stretch the springs on my Impala. That of course would ruin the finish on your almost new spring.
  19. I saw a show on PBS about this just last week. They had a production car modified to run on hydrogen. I don't think they were not storing the hydrogen, but using batteries for storage and a fuel cell to generate the hydrogen on demand.
  20. I'm with Dave on the points. Electronic ignition has benefits in performance applications and eliminates maintenance. Points require periodic adjustment and replacement. For the amount of miles many (most?) of us drive annual is more than enough. Electronic ignition systems do occasionally fail, and when they do it's usually complete, the car won't run. Unless you have spare parts with you, you are probably out of luck. With points you'll generally get a gradual degradation in performance. A screw driver and a nail file will get you out of most binds with bad points. Like Dave says, keep a spare in the glove box and your good to go. If your going to drive it daily, a conversion may be the way to go.
  21. Mine has the gear shift outside the frame and the brake inside. The frame rails are straight at the back, and the gas tank mounts are cast and riveted to the rails. Based on the engine # it's a mid '16 car (on the early side maybe?). I don't have a frame #, but Dave Corbin estimated it at 165480.
  22. I'd drill the stud on this one. I would be difficult to get to the tapered part of the nut and very likely that you would damage the wheel in the process. The hole in the wheel is larger than the stud, so you have some room for error drilling the stud. Use good bits and cutting oil; cheap drill bits are worse than useless. Center punch it and drill slowly with moderate force. I'd start with and 1/8, go to 1/4, then 7/16. You should then be able to twist the stud off using what's left of the nut.
  23. I replaced the bias redlines on my '66 GS with Coker redlines 7 years ago. Been very happy with them.
  • Create New...