rrs814

('90 convertible) PARTS - who/where should I try to get GOOD hood struts? ALSO need little chrome plastic up/down door lock button AND windshield washer plastic clip-on spray nozzle thingy. (I realize some of this stuff is likely generic, but I'm here......... ALSO -- A few years back I bought a vinyl (should have gone cloth) top. It's been down and up MAYBE 6 times since installed and the seams below window (R and L sides) are coming apart. Is it simply a poorly made replacement, OR is there perhaps something in the "skeleton" that wears those spots when stowed (??) (re; photo -it rained the day before and we have trees. That's why it looks "neglected"). Thanks in advance. Many of you have been very helpful in the past and I appreciate it!!!

Hi Padgett....Jim replied with info making it clear I wasn't thinking straight! I've had this thing 19 years and managed to forget what I was doing!

DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wow....... I've been under some stress, and am (obviously) confused (and now....embarrassed!) THANKS for the wake-up! Feeling much like a boob now.

Dopey me..........

Hey Tony. I did figure that to be the case. Just looking for any "experiences" that might simplify things. Thanks

Grettings! I've been away for a while --- so the damn up/down button thing feels like it's fallen apart/broken inside. I have a full manual but thought I'd ask about any helpful "hints". I'm goin to wait until spring to take this on (no garage space for door dismantling). THANKS!!!!!! (1990 convertible)

It's been in the shop since Tuesday.......It actually started and behaved nornally right before I had it towed in (with my luck, it would have died en-route) had I driven it in). They've started it every hour, and it WON'T misbehave........It's CRAZY-MAKING. I just emailed them all of YOUR responses. What have I done to deserve this??????

Thanks Ronnie! That actually worked.........for a short time ( af ew weeks of no driving, just idling for about 5 minutesa week.) I don't drive it until weather clears, so only start it every week at this point. Prior to the guage troubles I had the Ignition C M (and "bad" wires to it) replaced 21 miles ago (yes...21). Started it today and AGAIN, no tach or temp gauge and it dies after a couple seconds. Won't keep running. I called the shop to speak to the owner but he's now gone for the day. I WILL call him Monday morning. Sadly, it'll be yet another tow-in and wait a day or 3. - IF ANY OF YOU GUYS have an idea of what it might be, PLEASE let me know. - THANKS

I've always requested forgiveness for my ignorance, and NOW is no exception. I haven't been driving it for a couple years (medical thing) but I run it and "move it around the yard" once a week. I DID drive it a few miles after having it towed recently having had ICM replaced. All has been well until today when the the tach visually went up quick, then stopped working, along with the temp gauge. I'm "thinking" the speedo MIGHT not function (but can't take on road for a couple days. ---- ANY IDEAS??????? THANKS

FINALLY had my top replaced, and notice (now) that the weatherstrip (driver side) is "worn" and will certainly leak. I know I can reglue and maybe patch it OK, but I'd like a new piece from top of window down to door (am I dreaming?) Any help appreciated as always. SEE PHOTO

THANKS!!!! Still working as if it never was "frozen" (so stiff there was no "play" whatsoever!) Now......A-OK!

WAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Went out to "look" and it has MIRACULOUSLY cured itself (at least for now). I tried it several times, and NOTHING seems to be wrong! Anyone else EVER experienced this? (NO.....I don't use substances anymore............).

Hi Barney! Had ALL the stuff replaced (I THINK I got the kits from you...maybe? Approx 2011) They worked GREAT for 2 1/2 summers (I don't drive it much, MAYBE 1000 m a year, and seldom at night, hence the "30 uses" statement. I haven't looked it over (not much to "see", as it won't raise), but I'm HOPING it's simply stuck in a way that's simple to remedy. What I'd like to hear is there are a couple (at least one) thing(s) to look for (assuming this has happened to other owners)....???? To be clear, it's just one, so it's a "winker" right now.

Happened in the dark (sort of a "duh" announcement) BUT....lifted hood, tried manual open knob....it's STUCK shut. Will "look" in morning. Any thoughts? Both repaired and worked GREAT about 30 times............:confused:

Wish I's known! Mine is still a "project" though (needs paint, top, etc..........

Right turn....arm returns, left turn, NO. Am I safe to think I should replace assembly (not me, my mechanic)?? I have horn buttons that need to go in, so this might be the time for all.......I WILL need part(s), so probably J.F, unless someone knows something I don't (which is HIGHLY likely).........THANKS

See photos THANKS!----

Cleaned MAF (very easy) ....so far OK, but haven't driven it much. Start-warm up-shut down a couple times a day for a few days, no "antics",,,yet.

ahhhhhh. FYI found on Goog search, did it (so EASY!). No problems...yet! THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!

I KNOW I've searched "MAF" before, and found info on removing and cleaning. NOW, nothing. Any tips?

OK....Haven't driven it for a few weeks. Started it yesterday (82 degrees outside) , COLD idle 14-1500, warmed up...the same. Didn't take it out.TODAY all's OK for about 30 miles (85 degrees) . Parked for 10 minutes. Started it and temp gage was up to about 2 o'clock, ran herky jerky for a moment (like it did July 11 when it stalled and wouldn't start for 10 minutes). I MIGHT try to clean MAF as it's the only thing NOT done yet. If I decide I shouldn't, I'll take it and have it done. This is annoying.....................

THX Padgett. Never got reply re; "registration"...and still haven't. Maybe someday. For now - Got the door panel off, mirror replaced. Now 1 seat function won't work (guessing switch) - tilt - but will survive for a while without it. Pulled the seat as well, and (with the help of a pal) re-soldered/cleaned up HORRIBLE old repairs (attempted) to wire "mega cluster" under seat. WHAT were they thinking? WHY so many wires!? "Bunches ganged together" ??? ANYWAY thanks for responding!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK - have FSM (sorta vague) - searched for "tutorial" here - found (below) - It appears panel needs to be removed to replace mirror assembly (yes?). Last time I did this was around 1971 on a GS 400 (Buick..oddly enough!) so I assume by '90 things changed (and I don't remember much about it anyway!). The bottom of panel is a bit loose, so I'm GUESSING there are some "clips" I may need to go get? (universal GM perhaps??) Please see below, and if YOU know, tell me it's correct. THANKS -- (next the drivers seat..OH BOY!) ----------------------------------- TUTORIAL Okay, on the '90, door panel removal's simple... you'll need a #2 philips screwdriver (standard size), a flat head screwdriver (for prying the leather pull strap and other things out of the way) a T15 torx screw driver (if you have a driver with detachable heads, it's the best choice), a ratchet (3/8") and a 10mm socket (3/8"). There is a screw behind the door pull latch, remove it and wiggle the latch cover/surround out of the way. Another screw at the door lock assembly. remove it and put the locking module through the whole so that when you pull off the panel, it'll stay with the door and not get pulled too. Gently (and I do mean gently, pry the locking tabs from the pad covering the mirror/seat controls (the tabs are on the side closest to driver), and when the cover is off, unscrew the two torx screws holding controls in place. Take flathead driver and carefully pry out the leather pull strap ends. 10mm bolt behind each end. They are about 3-4" long. Remove them, then, working from the bottom to the rear to the front and finally the top, gently pull the panel straight back towards car interior. They are held on by very large studs that break very easily if you're not careful and gentle. Support the panel!!! Don't just snatch it off or drop it. Now, reach behind it, towards the rear and disconnect the fiber optic lead (clear plastic lead going to the courtesy light) by pulling gently but firmly. If necessary, use flathead to gently pry up locking tabs on both connectors behind panel and disconnect them. Now, back to the seat control module. Lift control assembly out and towards rear. Slip front end in hole and pulling gently as needed, work assembly behind door panel. Controls stay attached to door. Panel, at this point, can be set aside and you now have full access to door's interior.

ALL'S WELL ! I found it!!! I'd still like to know why no answer though ----- I need to replace my drivers side mirror, and remove drivers seat to fix wiring underneath. Last year, I knew where my FSM was. NOW.... I can't find it. It's been mentioned that once "registered" at - Reatta Data Page = Reatta Data Page -- , I'd have access to the pdf. BUT......... I can't seem to get the needed info sent to me . I filled out the online form 2-3 weeks ago, and now again today. Any idea WHY I can't get a response? (yes, I filled it out correctly). THX!!!!

Hoping not to remove entire panel, but....oh well! Still can't find FSM...waiting for "permission" to access online thing.