wldavis

Thank you for the links, Jim.

Very cool model, Don. I like it !!! You added a lot of detail to that model.

Back in the day, I built that model of the '65 Dodge Coronet (I think that is the correct model designation) - the Ramchargers drag car, but I cut the front fenders and rear quarters and frame to alter the wheel base, just as the "funny cars" evolved to altered wheelbase cars. That was a really cool model. I was so proud after I did that modification. I should find another kit and do it again.

Have you contacted AMS Obsolete ?

Here is the connector side to this light switch. This measures about 3 1/8" across.

old car fan, Sorry - I just realized that I failed to post a photo of the contact side of the switch body. There are nine terminals on the rear of the body. I do not know - what do you think is a fair price for this ? Also, do you know what automobile this fits ?

Gentlemen, I bought a box of random parts at an auction a few weeks ago. In the box was this part. I assume it is some sort of light switch for a late 1920's or early 1930's automobile. The switch lever moves firmly and it appears that this switch has four positions. I am assuming one position is OFF. It appears that the switch knob is mounted on the dash ? and the articulating arm moves the switch lever. I have not tested the switch with a Volt/Ohm meter, so I do not know the status of the internal electrical contacts. Anyone interested in this part ? Thank you. -William

Gentlemen, I purchased a box of random parts at an auction. This was in the box. Lenses bad/missing. Anyone need/want this taillight assembly ? Please let me know if I have mis-posted this part . Thank you. -William

Have you called or emailed AMS Obsolete in Georgia, USA ? They may not have it but might direct you to someone who makes the seals.

It's probably a long shot, but have you called/emailed AMS Obsolete in Georgia ? Even if they don't have any, they might be able to point you to someone who does.

My 1951 Plymouth has an automatic choke, so 1950 could have been the last year for a manual choke for passenger cars. ??????

I thought our cars used offset pins in the base ? Am I wrong ? This bulb has straight pins.

Jim, Did you check with RJL Auto Fasteners. Their catalog shows similar clips, but they may be too big. No dimensions given in catalog on most clips.

What make is this truck ??? Year ???

Have you checked with one of the major automotive wiring places, like YnZ or Rhode Island Wiring ?

Yes. A "who dunnit" movie. At "the scene of the crime", you hear in the distant, a siren: Hi, Lo, Hi, Lo, Hi, Lo, etc. It gets louder and louder. All of a sudden, a black Traction Avant screeches to a halt, the front door swings open, and a detective (plain clothes) gets out. I love it !!!

You might want to contact a or your favorite auto upholstery shop. I believe the windshield and back glass have to come out to replace the headliner. They will know a glass man that can do this job.

This reminds me of an incident I had once. It was in about 1974. I had a '62 Chevrolet Impala two door hardtop. It had starter problems. I took it to a Chevrolet dealership. The Service Manager wanted to know whether I wanted a new starter (AC/Delco), a rebuilt starter from a parts store or a used starter from a wrecking yard. I asked him which one he would choose. He said probably a used starter from a wrecking yard. So, he sent one of his men to the yard to get a starter. When the man came back with it, the Service Manager was suspicious that it had been rebuilt. They opened up, and sure enough, it had. So, a fellow went back to the wrecking yard a second time to get a used starter. Same result. Now I am not sure if it was the third starter or fourth starter from the wrecking yard that had not been rebuilt. Anyway, they installed the last starter and that was the end of my starter problems as long as I owned the car.

Mike, When I clicked on Xander's photos on my PC, they became "full frame" top to bottom, so they could not have been any larger to be able to see the complete photo, unless one would want to enlarge a certain section to see a detail.

Ted, These are my thoughts: Fuel gauge - you will need to attach an appropriate fuel level sender plus a voltage (6 or 12) to test this. Oil pressure - if it has electric terminals on the back, it will need a sending unit. If it has a threaded fitting on the back, it will need a section of tubing and a liquid (oil) running through the tube under pressure to test. Water temp - if it has electrical terminals on the back, it will need a sending unit to test. If it has a threaded fitting on the back, it will need a section of tubing filled with some liquid (I cannot recall what this is), plus a fitting that screws into the engine block to test. These fittings plus liquid in the tubing for water temp gauges are sealed units. Amp meter - this can be tested by attaching this meter between the battery (+ terminal if neg gnd or - terminal if pos gnd) and the "load" (all the rest of the circuit). You may be able to find some instructions on-line at the gauge manufacturers website.

I am liking all these great photos. Here is one of me "fooling around" with my dad's 1941 Nash. I think this was from about 1949.

From a couple of days ago here in NW Alabama....

Maybe they will turn in a few more days.

That was the first thing i thought about. There are some good videos on that channel. It appears that over time, the state/city has added more and more signage/flashing lights before that rail bridge, but it still does not stop some drivers from "giving it a try". Some folks think that "signage" doesn't apply to them. But, physics still proves that X = X and if one tries to put X + 1 or X + 2 under X, something has to give.

Alan, That chassis assembly is really too pretty to cover up.