Brad Conley

Correct. No "2nd" gear position on the shift indicator, just the Powerglide-esque PRNDL. From experience, if you were above 20 mph and pulled the lever into "L" from "D", the transmission would go into 2nd gear. Leave the shift in "L" and at 20 mph, the transmission would automatically go into 1st gear all by itself. Now, upon acceleration and the shift lever in "L" and accelerating at full throttle, when the engine would no longer "pull" (RPM? Who knew!) pop the shift lever quickly from "L" to "D" and back to "L". This would reward the 16 year old driver with a "chirp" when the transmission hit 2nd gear . This, on more than one occasion, caused the auto in the other lane to wonder just what they were up against and confused the heck out of them. No gigantic, green, '64 Electra 4 door should be able to do such things. Many races were won using this tactic. Don't ask how I know....

Get the 102" wide trailer and a road side escape door, measured to fit most autos you will haul. Measure the distance from the bottom of your open drivers door (with you in the car) to the ground then SUBTRACT 2". For example, if your open drivers door with you in the car is 10" above ground level, you want the escape door set @ 8" above the floor of the trailer. Trailer manufactures do this ALL the time. I had my trailer built to my specifications over 10 years ago and did this. It was no big deal for them to set the escape door to my specifications. Oh, if you think you want a 24' long trailer, go ahead and get a 26' long trailer. Like garages, you can never get them big enough...

I have two Buick Show (or concept or prototype...pick your name) that ARE registerd, can be(and are) driven, licensed, insured, etc. It's all in who you know. One is in the photo below and the other is my GNX, used for photo and promotional purposes and purchased by a Buick Engineer (Byron Scott) upon his retirement. It can and has been done. Both have VIN's, which I'm sure helps. None are titled as replica, home built, etc.

You mean the '54 Corvair had the same vents as the '53 Buick, right? ;-)

Well, at least he spelled "Centurion" correctly... :-)

The blower motor resistor is under the hood, on the passenger side, bolted to the AC box. It will have a red/maroon color as noted above and be easy to see. Replace that part (it's quite available even at you local auto parts store) and you will regain fan speed control once again. If you're not too concerned with exact authenticity, it can be obtained for much less than the NOS part listed. O'Riley has it listed for $8.99 in even the correct color if you can believe their website. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Blower+Motor+Resistor/02627/C0331.oap?year=1974&make=Buick&model=LeSabre&vi=5134081

Tom, The quarter emblems are correct in size and placement. The deck lid emblems are incorrect.

edited) I would make a call to the Columbus Police and let them know of your dealings. They are very strict on pawn shops here and if good 'ol Lev is scamming people, they will put the squeeze on him but good. All is not lost. Added in edit:

While you're there.... (famous last words) Might as well replace the heater core if you are able to access it while everything is loose and moved around. I don't know that if it is possible, but worth a try now rather than down the road. I will say it is possible on a non-AC car to remove the heater box with he front end on the car. With the non-AC car, the thing that hangs you up is the two lower speed nuts located at the bottom of the cover. You use an air chisel to knock them off (you cannot see them unless the fender/inner fender is removed if you're worried about stock appearance) and use RTV to seal the bottom of the air box to the firewall. I've done this on several GM A body cars over the years. Like I said, I've only done this on a car WITHOUT AC. Proceed at your own risk. :-)

...and a spare!

I can say for certainty that pearl was used extensively by Buick on the show cars back in the day... . This is a photo of my GSX on the (probably) same turntable at the New York show in 1970.

Simply beautiful! I think Atena will take the '60 and you'll be in the '54 with the interior looking that way!

You sly dog, you.... I take it this "car thing" has been discussed with your lovely bride-to-be. I know I had that talk with Jodie before the "I do's". ( I know it has with you and Atena, just jerking you two's chain a little...:D) Nice acquisition! Proud of you son! :D

Humpf...so Dave changes his number and doesn't tell me. :-) Mike Garrison is good people too, just stay far, far away from a certain company in Chicago. They think all A body parts will work on Buick's. They won't.

I bought an old Buick once and it was full of fire ants (came from down south). I let off three "bug bombs" in the interior to kill the ants but had the added benefit of discovering every door seal needed replaced. They (the door seals) didn't look bad either.

There is only one guy that reproduces them (and the rest of the Buick clutch setup for A bodies). Dave Kleiner in Potosi, WI. 708-763-2076 is his shop's number. Don't buy anything from any other vendor. Those will not work and were made for Oldsmobiles. The Buick set up is different than anything else.

The problem is you are trying to buy a part to put on a chevy and your Buick is not a chevy. Go to http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=61 and get the proper Buick flywheel. GM made 4 completely different 350 cubic inch engines back in the day and practically zero parts will interchange, as you have found out. Summit doesn't really know anything if its not a chevy.

4 quarts in the pan and 1 in the filter. Millions ran thousands and thousand of miles that way. I would be more concerned with having the proper zinc levels than an extra quart of oil.

That style and the previous style were actually hubcaps and not wheels. They were of plastic construction. You can kind of see them on this picture of my Skyhawk.

My grandparents had a '55 Super 56R in those exact colors. Boy, that sketch brings back memories...

A Buick Regal T-Type.

Check out this link: http://gnttype.org/forums/archive/index.php?t-12481.html

A T-Type CAN come with a leather interior (optional). In 1986 the GN's came through as "T-Type"s and had the optional WE2 Grand National option. No WE2, no GN. Sorry...

Correct. Wrong wheels too.

They missed the entire interior. No GN was ever produced with the leather interior such as you have. All the badges, even today, can be bought and put on the car. I am truly sorry this was done and the person you bought it from basically lied to you. Oh, and the 86 would not have the red "T", but would have a badge saying "T-Type". Red "T" was 1987 only.