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Everything posted by DodgeKCL

  1. The only problem is:have you every had a brake system just up and fail? I haven't. And I've been on the road for 56 years now and have driven just about everything. On the windshield adjustment:I was at a car show a couple of weeks ago and a '29 DeSoto was there and it had the crank up windshield. It looked like the mechanism was the same as the Plymouth but I couldn't see inside the head board of course. another possible source for parts.
  2. Thanks for the reply. Your engine looks very much untouched. You even have the '35 generator with the first "voltage only" regulator on it (no current control). I don't have either. But your air cleaner looks nothing like either of mine. Can I take a photo of my 2 air cleaners and send them to you and have you post them on this thread? My posting ability stopped about 5 years ago and I can no longer put up any photos. The site administrator is no help.
  3. These engines were bulletproof. Your oil pressure is right on the mark for that engine. Mine follows my speed- 30mph,30psi-45mph,45psi-idle at 25psi. Cold start-50psi. It changes depending on the SAE number of the oil. I run SAE30 so my numbers will be set by that thickness of oil and the eventual heat of my engine. The knock is almost certainly a rod bearing. They are VERY easy to replace. A simple removal of the oil pan and replacing all the rod bearings will fix your problem. It's VERY difficult to bust one of these engines. The rings are a horse of a different color. You have to remove the head and cut off the ridge formed at the top of cylinders by age. Then,while you have the bearings off the rods,push the rod and piston straight up through the cylinder. It's very easy. The rings are almost certainly shattered onto pieces. It's a common fault. Purchase a new set of "0" Standard rings with loading springs. "0" Standard means no overbore like "10thou over". It's the rings your car most likely has now. Clean out the rings lands,that's the grooves in the piston, and slide in the rings. Rent a compression tool to compress all the rings so you can slide the piston back into the cylinder. Put LOTS of oil on your hands and on the piston and new rings and cylinder walls while you're doing all of this. LOTS. Slide the piston down into the cylinder,slide under the car and connect the rod bear caps with the new bearing shells,with LOTS of oil on everything, and Bob's your uncle the engine will run virtually as new. Don't forget the cotter pins in the rod bearing cap bolt ends. Job takes a "Saturday" to do assuming you have everything on hand. Been there,done that. If you have any questions fire away. Believe it's not as difficult as you would think.
  4. Does anybody know for sure what the air cleaner looked like on my KCL? The manual I have does not have one of those black and white renderings of the chassis and engine like the CHRYCO manuals of the period usually did. I now have 2 air cleaners including one I bought today that someone had written many moons ago on it 1935 DODGE. It,s the same as the one Ive had all these years but 2X as high.
  5. All these photos of wheels are showing 1936 LCs or later Their attachment system consists of clips on the wheel with a smooth rimmed hub cap. 1933,'34 and '35 had spring loaded clips around the hub cap rim and they snapped into the wheel. It would seem to me you guys are discussing 1936 and later, not 1935 and earlier. At least that's what I have physically found on vehicles over the years and not in the books. Which I don't trust.
  6. I'm not sure but I believe the colors they are referring to are "threads" or "markers" running around in a spiral down the body of the wire. Not the color of the wire body per se. I would wipe the wires with lacquer thinners to remove the years of crude and see if you can find the markers.
  7. My Detroit built '35 KCL originally came with 5:50/5:25/17" steel artillerys, it's on the original build ticket I got from Chrysler Historical. I couldn't find a set of 17s when I first got the truck and put on the more common 6:00/16". Lo and behold I'm at a flea market one day and you know what I found!! But by then I had put on new rubber and painted the rims so I'll live with that for now. But I believe 1/2 ton truck chassis did more commonly come with 17s rather than 16s.
  8. You don't really need a water pump. That engine was in the '29 Model U in the previous year and didn't use a water pump. I think the reason it was included was to run the cabin heater which appeared for the 1st time in the '30U running off the engine cooling water. Prior to that they used a exhaust manifold heater with an outlet on the passenger's floor toe board. The '29's cooling system was called thermo/syphon. Unless you REALLY need your heater,I wouldn't worry about the condition of the impeller and just go with the flow. (pun intended) I'd just clean it up and put it back on. The Plymouth 4s and 6s didn't overheat. The first '33 didn't even have a temperature guage. It's always the off brands that are falling by the side of the road on hot parade days in the Summer. Personal observation.
  9. Valves, most likely, Len. 15 lbs. vacuum is the best you,ll get. I've been told by the 'old guys' that the bouncing around of the needle was caused by sticking valves. Did you put prestart guide lube on the valve stems and guides as you reassembled the engine? (You should have also put prestart lube on the connecting rod bearings and mains.) It may get better with time and engine oil getting around the engine but you may just always have it. It is annoying but not dangerous.
  10. As far as I've seen over the years,the emergency brake makeup is the same throughout the CPDD cars and trucks. My 1935 KCL 1/2 ton truck has the exact same emergency/parking brake on it as my '33 Plymouth. In fact it has the same tranny. Just different ratios. And I'm pretty sure my '31 PA had the same as the '33 and '35. I agree with your comment about driving around with the original brake system BUT I've never had one fail on me in 40 years of owning a '29 U,'31PA,'33 PC and a '35 KCL. They weren't known for failing. But with that said I would want to have the emergency brake behind me just in case. They stop the vehicles VERY well. The front windshield has the exact same mechanism in it as the Chev of those years. It was made by WEED the snow chain makers. There should be a handle in the windshield header board to operate it. Seems the previous owner removed that also. Why on Earth would he remove the emergency brake lock,stock and barrel !? Just as a headsup your car is a 1930 "30 U". The '29 was just the "U" but they kept the designation for another year and so had to place the year ahead of the model/engineering code. A small point: the word PLYMOUTH on the hubcaps appears to be red. It should be gloss black the same as the half moons above and below it.
  11. And that's just American. Then there's Canadian,Australian and British to just name three others that built custom bodies on Commercial Car chassis during the 20s,30s and 40s.
  12. I may have put this in before but you cannot take too many photos prior to tear down and ,as I have found,you cannot put too many tag notes on completed work especially if something on the work is still to be done e.g. tightening nuts. Been there done that!
  13. I had a Plymouth 6 that was starting to be a real "smoker". So I pulled it down and replaced the rings,many were broken, cleaned up the valve seats and replaced the valves (with 1958 Chev 283 ci. exhaust valves). Lo and behold the choke started to "work". I had to keep it out a bit as the engine warmed up before I could push it in just as you would expect of a new vehicle. But my choke never really made any difference before. Then I hooked up a vacuum gauge to the windshield wiper port on the manifold and for the 1st time in a long time there was a "good" point on the air bleed screw! The engine also pulled 15 inches of vacuum at idle. The rings were just "0" standard and I just knurled the cylinders to bring them back to size a bit. I've seen a lot of discussion on the net about engines not adjusting to specs. I think the engines are tired and may need to be "freshened up". The engine also got a LOT better gas mileage. Just my 2 cents.
  14. The device was called STARTEX. It was an aftermarket unit but I think it did come as new equipment on some cars. I'm not sure how it operated but I believe it read the engine's vacuum. If the vacuum disappeared it engaged the starter and restarted the engine.
  15. Those pumps are common as dirt. They were used on all CPDD vehicles as well as all GM vehicles of the 30s and 40s and maybe beyond. I wouldn't be surprised if NAPA or Carquest still has pump and gaskets instock. They did change a bit over the years though. The brass "air dome" on the early ones on the top disappeared for instance. But as far as the gaskets I just cut my own. I go to the local car parts store where they sell gasket material in sheets for both water and oil and also manifolds. One thing I will point out in those AC pumps is the pivot for the actuation lever, the one that runs on the engine camshaft. There is a steel pin that goes through the white metal body that the arm pivots on. These pins are known to loosen and full out with time. It was about the only fault that was built in to all those pumps. You need to clean up the area around either end on the pin and secure with a small amount of JB Weld. If the pin falls out,and they do, the car with stop as soon as the carb runs out of it's last fill of fuel. And that's it! You're stuck. It's a hard fault to troubleshoot by the side of a speeding highway on a summer's afternoon. Been there,done that.
  16. I was going to chime in with that comment. It is a Canadian built truck possibly built in Toronto by Graham Brothers just before Chrysler moved all it's assembly to Windsor,1935 was the cusp year. Interesting that the firewall plate says U.S. built. Dave is correct. 1935 U.S. built in Hamtramkc ,like my KCL one of 10 ordered for a Canadian department store,, would have an 8 million number.
  17. I just thought I would put in my 2 cents. I think the technology has been lost over the years as to how to put the bulb in the socket correctly. I ran across it a number of years ago from an older guy now gone. If look at the bulb you will see the filaments are small straight lines from post to post. When you put the bulb in it's socket make sure you align it so the filament(s) are horizontal. In fact the high beam filament should be in the 'center' of the reflector and the low beam should be 'above' it. This is so when the low beam is on it's light hits the upper part of the reflector and is then aimed down toward the road ahead. However the high beam filament ,being in the center, all of it's light hits the whole reflector and goes straight ahead. Hope that came out right. (Brake lights and running lamps should be aligned the same way.)
  18. The dash is 1933 Dodge car. I have learned that the 1st of the 'new' Dodge trucks had the 1933 car dash,hence 'Commercial Car' as Chrysler called them. However if you look closely at the generator you will notice that it has the first 'voltage regulator on it. They were first put on sometime in 1935. Someone has also added a much later voltage regulator on the firewall. (Prior to that the drive train had no regulation just the brute resistance of the battery when charged.) It also seems to be missing the Dodge trademark 'spear' detail on the from fenders. Sooooooo,is it a 1933? or is it a chassis left over from 1933 that was sold,but updated, as a 1935. Or just what is it? (It is a 'cowl and chassis" btw.)
  19. All those 3 speed CPDD transmissions had a common wear problem. The input and output shafts are supported by a ball bearing race that got sloppy over the years. They are very easy to replace and are the same. However they are SKF metric. Nothing else fits. The part number escapes me right now. Both have to have their inside surfaces "open". That is if the bearing you buy has a cover over both surfaces,one has to be removed and that side faces inward. This is so the transmission oil can get to the bearing. Removing the cover does not hurt the race. Every tranny of this era I have worked on required those bearings.
  20. it looks like you don't need my advice anymore since you won the auction but I thought I would put in my 2 cents worth. In the Forces,and. I believe in the civilian aircraft industry,we used to stop crack creep by drilling a small hole right at the end of the crack.this disperses the forces in a circle and there is not enough left to keep the crack going. Works like a charm on cylinder heads. You can then use j b weld to close it up and make it waterproof.
  21. Basically what happened was the 1931 started the alphabet at 'A' i.e. PA. Then the 1932 was PB. Then the 1933 was PC. BUT the PC didn't go over for various reasons and Chrysler blinked and jumped to what would have been the 1934 Plymouth i.e. PD. So 1933 ended up with 2 basic models in one year. This being why you can find the 2 different dashes. There were also some other variations on the 2 themes called PCX and PDX and PCXX and we seem to be finding others as the years go on. Most on the other side of the pond.
  22. Not to put too fine an edge on it but they were called "Winter Fronts". At least here in Canada. I have an original 1933 Plymouth one. It's missing the coiled mounting springs but is otherwise in original condition. Black oil cloth on the front and khaki cloth on the rear with a zipper down the front. I believe you used the zipper as a 'regulator' to let in more air as the ambient temperature went up. The resulting flap could be snapped to the side out of the way. Mine does not have the Plymouth symbol on it like your Dodge but has '1933 PLYMOUTH' and a model number stamped on the rear. Possibly aftermarket while your appears NOS Chryco.
  23. Whoa. Slow down. Wheel bolts/nuts are cut with an interference thread. That means that they are just short of cross threading. This was done to help hold the nuts/bolts on without the use of lock washers. Today the rim is slightly short of sitting flat against the brake drum/hub. When you put on the nut and tighten it down,the rim is pushed down to the brake drum/hub doing the work of a lock washer. It pushes back against the nut "locking" the nut in place. But you can't,to my knowledge,rethread any wheel nut or bolt using a "normal" tap or die. I found this out many years ago when I rethreaded a set of 5 bolts for a '33 Plymouth and they were "loose" even though tight to the brake drum. Conversations with some car guys cleared up the matter. The brake drum had an interference thread and I was trying to put in an American Standard thread. Won't work.
  24. I agree with the marine spar urethane. That's what I used on mine 30 years ago and they've been through a few unavoidable Summer rain storms with no problem. I have touched them up twice,I think, over the thirty years. It's much more expensive than household polyurethane but works much better for wheels in water and road debris.
  25. Mac's in Tonawanda N.Y. has huge,free,colour catalog for the Model A and it appears Ford used a lot of generic stuff that will do on our Chryco vehicles including hinge pins. Just either phone them or e-mail them and they will send the catalog via snail mail free. You can also get on their e-mail list for deals of the day.
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