Jump to content

DodgeKCL

Members
  • Content Count

    989
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About DodgeKCL

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/11/1944

Recent Profile Visitors

802 profile views
  1. I may have put this in before but you cannot take too many photos prior to tear down and ,as I have found,you cannot put too many tag notes on completed work especially if something on the work is still to be done e.g. tightening nuts. Been there done that!
  2. All those 3 speed CPDD transmissions had a common wear problem. The input and output shafts are supported by a ball bearing race that got sloppy over the years. They are very easy to replace and are the same. However they are SKF metric. Nothing else fits. The part number escapes me right now. Both have to have their inside surfaces "open". That is if the bearing you buy has a cover over both surfaces,one has to be removed and that side faces inward. This is so the transmission oil can get to the bearing. Removing the cover does not hurt the race. Every tranny of this era I have worked on requ
  3. The bottom left hand 2 and the one in your hand: It appears that the larger 2 are the same?? They appear to be '33 DP . Also fit '33 HC 1/2 ton truck and '34/'35 KC 1/2 ton truck.(mine) The smaller of the 2 in the left hand photo is most likely off the spare tire in '33. I don't think the trucks had emblems on their spares but I could stand corrected.
  4. My spalsh apron straps were not that bad off and they had no large stamped holes in them like those in the photos. I think they may have been used in cars to mount in the body mount bolt position. Those bolt positions don't exist on my KCL. But it came originally as a cowl and chassis. This may explain the lack of holes.
  5. Those straps do absolutely nothing that I can see. Mine were rusted and I had a guy weld on new ones and extend them while he filled the splash aprons. I didn't know what I would need so extending them seemed the way to go. When I got to putting the aprons back on the frame I discovered they connected to nothing at all. I ended up cutting them back until they just sat on the frame and left them. Anybody out there know what they were intended for? If they were squashed between the body,the body mounting filler strap and the frame top, they MIGHT be considered part of the splash apron mounting.
  6. All "Floating Power" systems had the gear shift suspended over the transmission on a part of the frame. As you guessed this was to allow the tranny and engine enmasse to swing about it's centre of mass without the gear shift lever following it. Some systems also had a small 4 or 5 leaf spring setup on the passenger's side (usually) working through a rubber "sleeve" to stop the tranny and engine from swinging too far. The bottom of the gear shift lever had to be made dust and water proof and this is the piece of duck that needs to fill the gap and give flexibility. The front engine mount is a s
  7. I agree 100% with Keen25's photos of muffler/tailpipe brackets. They were the same for most CPDD vehicles in those years. My '35 Dodge KCL truck has the exact same ones with the cloth anti rumble strip. The hood lacing studs are close but the ones I've come across on original vehicles looked more like an inverted McDonald's soft ice cream cone with 'flutes' cut in the body to make "cuts' in the car body steel. In other words the body is more like a slight slow 'swirl' with flutes following the swirl. About 1 1/2 turns I'd say. VERY sharp on the point and hard as hell. The heads look the same a
  8. Just as a point of authenticity: the bottom apron on the rad shell of that '33 Dodge convert. should be painted gloss black the same as the fenders. That's the 2 "triangles"and their joining lip. Also I believe the crankhole cover should be black inside the loops of the "6" and black in the inside border around the "6". Although the jury is still out on the "6" stuff.
  9. The dull gray covering you're asking about was cadmium. It was also used on the '28/'29 and '30 wooden wheel rims to keep them from rusting. Most use as dull a silver paint as you can find to replicate it. Gray paint doesn't look right. CADMIUM-a bluish white metal used in protective plating (Webster's) I think the metal on all Plymouth rad shell medallions from '28 through to '33 is copper not brass. Just an observation over the years. I have no proof but it does not look like the brighter brass. Especially after it starts to tarnish. It looks more like a copper penny. If you take a penny and
  10. The "bible" says the Convertible Coupe used 'flat mohair' or 'leather' for upholstery. Bedford Cord was only used on an enclosed car.
  11. I agree. I think you're worrying about nothing. I would just set the brakes up as if the drums were new and drive it. The shoes will remove the rust is a short time. I wouldn't take any material off them. I have several vehicles with original drums from that era and have never found any to need truing. Besides this a 45-50 mph. car and the chances of you needing to slam on the brakes in an emergency are remote. The stick shift tranny will do a lot of the slowing down. You will tend to drive the car with much greater care then you drive your daily driver and keep much more space between you and
  12. The tranny casting numbers appear to be 31841-1 and 6-28. I believe the 6-28 means the basic casting has been around since June 1928.
  13. I never paid much attention to the KC(L)s that followed mine ( I had enough on my plate trying to fiqure out what I had.) but Ply33 got my interest going. I looked at the parts photos and lists for the '35 KC,I have the original Model K Series parts list (which includes the larger tonnage trucks as well), and lo and behold the 1st series KC,suicide doors, had a crash box and the 2nd series,regular doors, had syncro in,I guess,2nd and 3rd. The break was at 891,1001 so since my serial number is 807,1921 I have a non syncro tranny. I'll now leave it to you owners out there to confirm this since I
×
×
  • Create New...