poci1957

I read yesterday they are the most widely held corporate bond in the country.

Old car legend (and the AACA) says 1927 or 1928. Allegedly, Cadillac was preparing some Fleetwood show cars and the paint shimmered with metallic particles resulting from ball bearings from a machine disolving into the paint pigment. However, it is said earlier finishes used fish scales in the pigment for an irradecent shimmer. In both cases this would only be true of expensive custom paint, production cars used regular paint or varnish. Todd C

That is correct, the maximum pressure is rarely the factory recommended pressure. I would suggest (only my opinion) to use the factory recommended pressure which is listed in most owners manuals. I might inflate a few pounds over, but never to the maximum pressure. If the recommended pressure cannot be found, ask other owners of your car model and try to form a conclusion, best wishes, Todd C

It should be simple BUT do you want correct, original cables? If so, any parts store purchase is inauthentic and everyone will know it. I suggest check Year One for CORRECT cables, available for $35-$40. Best wishes, Todd C

Mike, again, the Standard Catalog of American Cars will help you with this sort of question. I am interested in your research project, as I am working on similar research in my town (Decatur IL) at about the same time (1916-23). Decatur was home to two medium priced assembled cars, the Comet and Pan American, which are now forgotten. You are probably aware that York's William(?) Rosenmiller is a local collector of Pullmans and may be one to visit if possible. You are welcome to Email me with any questions and maybe your research could help me too. Best wishes, Todd Crews, Decatur IL (former York resident for 2 yrs and old car restorer)

Mike, as Restorer32 says, the best source is the Standard Catalog of American Cars 1805-1942, by Beverly Rae Kimes. This is a fascinating book and has cars cross referenced by city and state, with a brief thumbnail history of each and some specs. A GREAT source, and it may even be in the local library. Todd C

As noted, new cars have sheetmetal that is thinner and also harder, so it has more "memory" and a dent can be worked out as done by the paintless dent removal people. I bet this device would be useless on an older car with thicker sheetmetal, and I am always a skeptic of any of these sort of products. Todd C

These are indeed the same seat frames and springs. Todd C

I was thinking the same, possibly Nash

John, I can't speak firsthand about the 1930's models, but in the 1950's there were 2 numbers as you describe, one was the Delco part number (the 7 digit 1100XXX number) and another the Pontiac Division number. The Delco number would actually appear on the part, and the PMD number was used in their parts book. Hope this helps, Todd C

Rich, I will second what the others are saying, these are very convenient and simpifying with one kind of abrasive is fine. The different size nozzles are not a big deal, actually you will wear them out anyway so I used mine more or less interchangably. 50 psi or less is my air preference too, and the dry air is essential. Best wishes, Todd C

Matt, read your "oxymoron" article, yours is a very well stated position and I agree TOTALLY! It sounds like you and I have a similar background beyond the average hobbiest, so we are restoring our own cars with a more experienced eye. BUT, that said, I would also say that an amateur restoration does not HAVE to be an oxymoron, it just usually is. There is no reason that a regular guy cannot LEARN to do quality work, but often people like the 1948 guy just don't care. As you said, when painting, upholstering, or buying reproduction parts, the difference is not ALWAYS a lot of extra money, because it will cost you anyway. Often the key difference is patience, care and educating yourself, and no one seems interested in any of that. Oh well, I guess that is another thread for a different day, but thanks for the article and best wishes, Todd C

In my opinion, this is why projects like the 1950 listed next are so destructive to the hobby. That car will likely have expert workmanship in it's customization and will probably be very sharp, but then it will go into the magazines to inspire people like the 1948 guy here. A family restorod, with a Nova subframe (as seen in Rod & Custom). What an artist! The guy would say he pulled the straight eight and kingpin front end so he could have modern driving and handling, and the chopped up result is a car that is not fit to drive at all, but which he could sacrifice for only $8900. Beware, there are thousands of him out there and they will outnumber restorers soon! Lord help us all, Todd C

To restorer32, yeah, I know, it sounds odd but I do not recall changing the spool. And my use is often, but usually short duration, just a bit here and there. I am on my third gas cylinder and at least 6 tips, but do not recall a spool of wire. Go figure.

I bought a Miller 130 which was the biggest one I could get to plug into a 110V outlet. I recommend it to anyone, it is easy to use, no special outlet required. I've had it for nearly 10 years and use it all the time and have not had one problem, nor have I replaced my spool of wire. Get a tank for argon, the flux wire is not satisfactory for extensive use. Some will say this is too small, I say it is big enough for any use on a car, and the convenience of 110V operation is a good thing. Take the plunge!! Todd C

Depending on the information you want, the best Packard book ever is the 800+ page Packard history by Beverly Rae Kimes. Check out your library or maybe Classic Motorbooks. It's expensive if you can find it, but it's a gem. Other lesser Packard books should me easy to find if necessary. Todd C

Well it's been a while, anyone got any information on these cars? Thanks, Todd C

Hello, would like to hear from the old timers. The Pan American and Comet were medium priced six cylinder assembled cars, built in Decatur IL from 1917 to 1922. Has anyone seen one or own one? Any recollection of them at early car shows? Would appreciate any firsthand information, thanks. Todd Crews

I am also about to send my wheel (1957 Pontiac) to Dennis at Quality Restoration. He came well recommended to me too, and a phone conversation revealed him to be extremely knowledgable. Todd Crews

Hello Dwayne, sorry you didn't get a reply sooner. It is likely your car's body was painted a dark maroon, green, or blue, with black fenders and belt moldings. The black was enamel paint, easily duplicated today, and the body was probably varnished, like a carriage, as sprayable lacquer was not yet available. I suggest you contact a literature dealer or Dort club to get a sales brochure, which in those days were often very detailed about finishes and such. Your car model probably had only one or two color choices and you may learn all you need to know. Best wishes, Todd Crews, Decatur IL

Kevin, I agree that Randy Ema is the guy to contact if possible. I understand he has original engineering blueprints and other data at his disposal. I would guess documenting original finishes would be extremely difficult as by now every surviving Duesenburg has probably been disassembled and restored at least once or twice. I also would be interested in which J you are restoring. Todd C

Greg, on a trip south I visited Floyd Garrett's Musclecar Museum near Pigeon Forge, TN. I was suprised to see a 1959 or 1960 Chevy reputed to be an unrestored original with the original top (unrestored originals are a specialty of this museum). I guess Mr Garrett is often on hand, maybe you could do a web search and contact them. Please let me know what you find, Todd Crews, POCI 1957

Brush cars are more common than most brass era cars, there should be a number of old timers that could offer advice on this one.

Where was your space? I had a full wallet and empty parts bag looking for 1957 Pontiac stuff?

Tinindian, you are absolutely right and I am guilty of that myself. Thanks for the point, we need to do better with the word of mouth. Todd C