poci1957

Detached is the way of course but if you are building a new structure you actually should ask do you really want a pole barn or a garage? Some say you are either a garage or a pole barn guy and I find I am a garage guy. My previous country place had a large metal machine shed over 3000 sq ft and with all that space it seemed like the ideal. It wasn't. I was never able to eliminate mice, I was never able to heat it all, even lighting all that space was too much. In the damp spring and fall seasons the metal building sweated and soaked everything in condensation and there was nothing I could do about it. When I moved into town pole barns were seriously discouraged but I was allowed a 24x48 garage (4 stalls, almost 1200 sq ft) with 10ft walls to accommodate a lift. And a small detached shed for parts storage. This has been about perfect for me, maybe slightly larger like 30x48 would have been nice but I can heat, light and insulate it and I am very comfortable. The cost (at least in my area) was just a little more than a pole barn for a much nicer looking building that fits the neighborhood. And my wife's cars and the lawn implements live in the regular 2 car garage by the house. Good luck with yours, Todd C

Bob is right about this and I think if you can have one of each that is the best balance. I think Jay Leno once said that the ideal is one in the shop and one ready for the road and that has worked for me. BUT if I had to pick one or the other I would say my unrestored original that has always been ready for the road has been more enjoyment than my marathon full restoration in the shop, Todd C PS--I think Matt Harwood's comments about driving the aging full restoration may be best of all

Thank you Fred for the timeline. I worked for Al Prueitt & Sons in 1987-89 and met Mr. Zimmerman while we were restoring his 1935 V16 Cadillac, one of his last old cars, photo attached. I learned the basics of his life story and his long history with the Prueitts but either forgot or did not hear the "Holliday Inn" story, very interesting. To me in 1988 he was a crusty and eccentric old character I tried to steer away from but I now wish I would have asked for and listened to some stories. The Cadillac was spectacular, by the way, a huge Fleetwood Convertible Victoria with a 154" wheelbase and that fantastic V16 engine. That is me in the photo, alas, 30+ years and 40+ pounds ago. Only two of this body were said to have been made in 1935 and 20 years later I finally saw the other one at the Nethercutt Museum in California. IIRC I was told that after his liquidation he kept the Cadillac, an Oldsmobile Limited, and possibly the short wheelbase Duesenberg mentioned earlier in the thread. I do not know where it is now, Todd C

Hmm, so it is, I hadn't noticed before

It's a little late but here is a Wescott on display in the ACD museum about 10 years ago

To those who don't know "Skinned Knuckles" is a long-running monthly magazine aimed at the hands-on hobbyist interested in authentic restoration and preservation so most of us here are the target market. It is especially useful if your cars are 1950s or (especially) earlier, prewar a plus. I would say if you are new to Skinned Knuckles and meet these criteria definitely take a look. If you want a nice glossy magazine with color photo features it is definitely NOT for you, it is produced by a grassroots self-publisher in California, all black & white on newsprint and has looked exactly the same for 40 years.

I do, the Desert Bar, 1990 I think. I bought a box thinking they would amaze my friends back home, Todd C

Yes, this took a turn regarding the white paint thanks to me, sorry about that. HOWEVER it could be relevant in that lots of these cars that were restored in the 1960s will have incorrect colors and this way you can be aware that a white car 1920s car is probably not authentic 😉

I also think 1952-53 is about the beginning of the time frame. Looks like Ford provided the 1953 Indy 500 Pace Car in ivory white and by 1955 they used bright white widely in two tones and with matching two tone interiors featuring bright white vinyl. Before 1952 you might see off whites like light gray or cream but never a bright white like later, Todd C

Interesting comment, as by then white was being widely used, especially in two tone combinations.

Before my knowledgeable fellow members critique me note I am aware that there were popular brass era Buicks and others painted white circa 1908-10 and that coachbuilt cars could be ordered in any color desired (the excuse used for many questionable restoration color choices). But my understanding is that in the 1920s and 1930s white was not usually used both due to the ambulance/milk truck association AND that white paints had poor durability and would turn chalky in a relatively short time. Does anyone know if that was the case?

My understanding is in the prewar years white was considered only suitable for ambulances and milk trucks and almost never used on passenger cars, it is a little pet peeve of mine to see a white prewar car, Todd C

The ones for corvettes seem to come from Quanta at gas tanks.com

It could be an issue for me and something we might not always think of

Hello pkhammer, I am about your age (52) and are similarly interested in 1920s cars although I do not own one. I think the "nickel" era is a fascinating time in automotive history but the cars themselves have been overlooked for years due to often bland appearance compared with the earlier brass cars and the later classics. BUT many 1920s cars were restored and driven by hobbyists in the 1960s and 1970s and an older restoration from an estate would be perfect for you and bargains can be found IMO. Regarding what kind, I notice others keep mentioning 1920s Dodges and I would suggest also consider 1920s Chryslers and early Plymouths. The 1920s Chryslers were said to have had superior performance for the day and 4 wheel hydraulic brakes from day one so they should be more drivable than many contemporaries. There will be some out there in garages and sheds that were restored in the 1970s and could be mechanically and cosmetically freshened up to be good drivers for a reasonable price. An open car would cost more than a sedan and I would also suggest if you find an open model make sure you can comfortably fit to drive since those 1920s roadsters and tourings can be tight in the front seat. Good luck, Todd C

Here is an interesting article on the subject: https://www.nailhed.com/2014/05/cranked-up.html While there were probably other versions earlier it claims that the long-forgotten Ternstedt Manufacturing had the patent on a practical window regulator in 1916 (pending since 1911) and built a plant to supply Fisher Body in 1917, then Fisher bought them out in 1920 after the death of the founder, Todd C

Here is one from the Petit Jean Museum in Arkansas

Great tip, thanks David

I bought a set for my 1963 Pontiac too about 18 months ago and was very pleased. Regular production 14" tires like this have been hard to find for years and these look good and only cost $65 each, I have seen them often on 1960s and 1970s cars at shows, Todd C

Apparently this one went to auction last year too https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0119-357109/1950-oldsmobile-sedan-delivery/

Here is an interesting article about that one Charles https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/car-of-the-week/car-week-1950-oldsmobile-sedan-delivery

1957 Pontiacs also use the Bendix Treadle Vac and I was satisfied with Midwest Power Products at midwestbooster.com Todd C

For my 1957 Pontiac I used www.qualityrestorations.com and was satisfied

Hey demon452 who did you use for the rebuild and what did you think of their service & price? My 1957 Pontiac hinges are a little loose and the hood is currently removed so I am thinking it might be a good time to knock this out, Todd C

I will take the other school of thought on the mechanicals. I have been working on my own car for many years in fits and starts and able to perform quality work in my own garage much like Vila and his Triumph. And for my next restoration (if I have the energy) I will definitely do body and paint first and mechanical work last. Why is that? Because the engine/transmission/axle took a few months to rebuild and the rest of the car took years. The assembled powertrain sat dormant while the other work was done and collected dust (and lots of it). If you do the mechanical work last you will be ready to start and drive immediately and while working the bugs out (rattles, leaks, etc.) if there is a problem with parts or service you will have recent receipts and contacts to talk to, Todd C