Smartin
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Posts posted by Smartin
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Nice distributor gear! LOL
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The o-ring needs to be gooped up a LOT in order for that thing to seal. And sometimes it still won't seal without a couple tries. The thing that really sucks is that it's hard to access once installed and all the accessories are on it.
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Good. I didn't want to have to drive to MI this week LOL
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Bill's project snowballed pretty immensely. I was bummed to see him pass. I'm curious to see where the car is/ended up.
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I booked online...took 5 minutes.
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You can now reserve rooms at the host hotel.
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You can get the older style on ebay as well.
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This car presents pretty darn well. For $16,500 it may be a great way to get a somewhat turnkey car that doesn't NEEEEEED a ton of cosmetic work.
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The head removal on a 57-58 is a giant PITA since the rear two pushrods cannot be removed with the air box on the firewall. They have to come off with the head. I think there is one of the head bolts that has the same problem. If I were you, I would let it ride for as long as possible.
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Ok I just realized the 68 is different than 69 regarding the emblems.   Still seems odd that it's not the same skeleton.
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We have come to the conclusion that this was an error on the last rebuild. The pistons had been seizing on the wrist pins and not allowing them to pivot in the bores, causing the galling of the piston skirts on the cylinder walls. Either bad machining or oiling, or some other paranormal activity happening.
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Old Tank pretty much summed it up above.
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For starting your engine, hopefully you have heavy duty assembly lube on your cam and lifter faces. Break in oil as stated...and bray to Jebus nothing fails in the first 20 minutes of cam break-in.
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What are the holes for?
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Very nice! Saw it at the nats, and kept confusing it with the other 49 there. A Roadmaster. Nearly twins with an extra port hole.
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We stopped in Rawlins on the way there and ate at a place attached to the gas station there, named Pete's Eats. Pretty darn good breakfast!
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2.25-2.5 is correct for 60. I think 62 was the start of thinner whitewalls.
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Pliers is correct.
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Yes.
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Lately, I have been getting some alternators that are clocked wrong. Check the new one to your old one to make sure the terminals are clocked the same as the old one. Otherwise, you will not be able to get it installed or adjusted due to the terminals hitting the brackets.
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There are two different size tools! You will need the one with the smaller opening.
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That red 72 I sold recently had horribly closing doors.  I replaced both latch mechanisms inside the door with others from a better donor.  Also made some striker adjustments…they still required some effort to close.
Even that hail damaged 72 Riv I sold last year had sloppy closing doors, and it was a 55k mile original car
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The only coupe/convertible I’ve had that had doors that close east and tight was my cinnamon coupe.  It was a low mile pampered car. Â
ÂA combo of sagging hinges, sloppy latch mechanisms and latch pillars are much to blame. Â The windows are usually a little out of adjustment and the tracks allow them to flop around, allowing them to hit the roof rubber prematurely.
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We believe it was a condenser that was causing the problem the whole time....at least that's the last thing we replaced, and it was ok after that.
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I would rather tinker with points on the side of the highway than have no recourse for a failed electronic system.
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Made it home! What a whopper of a 2 weeks that was...
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The office needs a couple weeks (sometimes more) to process the judging sheets, so be patient.
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The Car Which Shall Not Be Named III (1935 Lincoln K)
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Do you need another opinion on your jam nut, or do you have enough? 🤣🤣 Sorry, I had to.
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Jam nut for the win!!