Smartin

The whole story is on v8buick...when it comes back online, I'll look it up and get the details. I never read anything about fishy deals like stolen parts or anything though. I can still see part of the grille trim laying in there. Any why would someone leave the grille studs?? The front hood trim piece is made of pot metal an melts like butter. It was probably gone before the grille burned away. This is the same with the headlight buckets. I doubt any foul play was at hand here.

A member of v8buick.com owns this car. He says they're very rare... I would direct you to the thread where we are discussing this car, but v8 is down to the night...due to some database rearrangements.

http://www.buicknailhead.com/ Carmen Faso ~ J&C Parts of Tonawanda, NY Engines - Headers - Cranks - Heads - Speed Equipment 716.693.4090 http://www.centuryperformance.com/default.asp http://www.rodncustom.com/ Intertech Research - Nailhead Head Porting Specialist ~ Ed Mosler (559) 486-8202 http://www.macsgarage.com/ http://www.transmissionadapters.com/53-66_nailhead.htm http://webpages.charter.net/dhomstad/ http://www.taperformance.com/ http://www.vintagespeed.com/

I'd like to be next in line...of course I'd love to see some pictures too! If you get access to it in the near future could you snap some shots? Although brown isn't really my color... Thanks for thinking of me Keith!

Posted on the V8buick board by Larry Hymowitz, I thought this would be in-place here in the Performance section. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I thought I would try and compose this post to answer timing questions I see all the time on this BB. I see alot of questions about what initial timing to run on a modified BBB, without regard to what the timing is as the RPM's increase. Everyone should know exactly what their total advance is, and at what RPM it's all in at. The right timing, at all RPM's can make a huge difference in the way your engine runs, and makes power. There are 3 components to total timing. Initial advance, mechanical or centrifugal advance, and vacuum advance. Since vacuum will be at or near 0 at wide open throttle (WOT), initial advance + mechanical advance are most important to how your engine runs under race conditions. Initial timing is simply how you have your distributor installed, and adjusted, in the engine. You simply attach a timing light, and with the engine running,(vacuum advance plugged), you turn the distributor until the timing mark lines up with the desired number on the timing tab. As you increase the engine RPM's, you'll notice the timing mark move upwards, and out of sight. This is the mechanical advance in operation. There are weights inside the distributor, that pivot against spring tension, and move the base plate so that the spark occurs earlier(advance). The springs determine how quickly the mechanical advance increases with rising RPM. There is a pin that moves in a slot under the weight plate. This is what determines how much mechanical advance is built into the distributor. Aftermarket advance curve kits generally provide a bronze bushing that goes on that pin, and limits the movement of the pin in the slot, thus limiting total mechanical advance. The only other way to modify the amount of mechanical advance in the distributor, is to disassemble the distributor, weld the slot, and file it until you have the desired amount of advance you need. This is why you can't simply buy a junkyard HEI or other distributor, and put it in the engine, and run whatever initial timing you like. If there is too much mechanical advance in that distributor(this is typical for all factory spec'ed distributors), you'll overadvance at higher RPM. If you need higher initial timing, you need to reduce the mechanical advance in the distributor to avoid over-advance. Most Buick V8's run best at WOT, with a total timing of 30-36*, all in at 2500 RPM, or less. The easiest way to determine your total advance is to use a dialback timing light. You simply connect the light, plug your vacuum advance, and have a second person slowly rev the engine. With the dial back feature, you adjust the light to keep the timing mark in sight as it rises. When the timing mark stops moving, you hold the RPM's steady, adjust the dial until the balancer mark lines up with the 0 on the timing tab, and read your total advance off the dial. To do this with a conventional timing light, you need to make a 30* mark on your balancer. The Buick 350, and 455 balancers are 6 3/4" in diameter. Circumference (360*) of a circle is pi(3.14) X diameter. 6.75 X 3.14 = 21.195"/12 = 1.76" (30*). Looking at the engine from the front, measure exactly 1 3/4" clockwise around the balancer, and make a second mark. This is your 30* mark. Connect up your timing light, and watch your 30* mark as you increase the RPM's. At some point, your 30* mark will stop rising, and move no higher. This is the RPM, where all of your mechanical advance is in. At this same RPM, with the distributor loose, adjust it so that your 30* mark lines up with the 0 on the timing tab. You now have 30* of total timing. Line it up with the 2, 32* total, ect. Keep in mind that a stock distributor usually has stiff springs in it, that don't allow full advance in until 4000 RPM or more. For best performance, you want your advance in at 2500 RPM, or before. The easiest way to do this is to purchase a Crane adjustable vacuum advance kit. It comes with 3 sets of springs to allow your advance in as early as 1600 RPM, or as late as 3200 RPM, or anything in between. For points distributors (Jegs part # 270-99601-1, GM HEI, 270-99600-1). What I did was purchase the kit, and install the lightest springs(2 yellow). I used these springs to adjust my total timing, that way, I didn't have to rev the motor very high to see my total. Afterward, I installed the springs that brought my advance in at 2200 (2 silver) One important note is to make sure the timing is returning to the initial setting, when the engine is idling. So when setting your timing, pay attention to when the advance starts, as well as when it is fully in. Having the distributor in the advance curve, at idle speeds, can cause excessive rpm drop with an automatic trans, with some camshaft/converter combinations. Generally, the more agressive a camshaft you use, the more important this will be. Advance curves should generally start at around 1000-1200 rpm, when your idle speed is around 800 in Park. Now for vacuum advance. Some people prefer not to run vacuum advance at all. Under race conditions it is totally irrelevant, because it won't function at WOT. BUT, on a street car, it can be used to enhance throttle response, increase gas mileage, and let the engine run cooler at idle and low speed. The problem occurs when there is too much vacuum advance coupled with a modified mechanical advance. As mentioned before, stock distributors didn't allow total mechanical advance in until upwards of 4000 RPM. At your typical cruising speed of 3000 RPM, only part of your mechanical advance was in. The vacuum advance would supply an additional 14-18* for a total of around 40* or more. At light loads (cruising), an engine can easily tolerate this much advance. The result is better gas mileage. With a modified mechanical advance, all your mechanical advance is in at cruising speeds. Add the 14-18* of vacuum advance, and the engine pings when you punch the throttle, and the advance from the vaccum cannister doesn't/can't go away quick enough. The answer is to modify the vaccum cannister to allow only 8-10*of additional vacuum advance. With 30-34* timing + your vacuum advance, you'll be at 38-44* which should be optimal. As far as running your vaccum advance off manifold or ported vacuum, everyone has a different opinion. In most cases, OEM used ported. I use manifold vacuum. With a wild cam, you can use manifold vacuum advance to give extra advance for a smoother idle, and better low end response. Everyone's engine will be different, so you need to experiment with your combination. With the Crane adjustable advance cannister, there is a better way to limit the degrees, than what Crane suggests. I'll post some pictures to detail this. With the stock cannister, you'll need to fashion a block off plate. You basically restrict the pull pin travel to .086" for 8*, or .104" for 10*. </div></div>

I'll be in the modified class this year at Batavia. I had too many deductions last year...even though I scored 356. If I had a correct interior, stock manifolds, and a painted intake, I would've scored a solid Silver. Do I care? A little, but not to the point I'm going to change it. I'll see how the modified class goes thsi year...and if I don't like it, I'll be back in the standard judged classes in Rochester.

I really doubt that Keith was attacking Roberta with that statement.

http://www.cottonsperformance.com/ http://www.hrpartsnstuff.com/ https://www.kirbanperformance.com/index1.htm http://www.paeenterprises.com/paeframe.html http://www.taperformance.com/ http://www.gnttype.org/vendors/ Hope this helps...

53 Skylark Custom just sold for $142,500

Did youhear about the guy that cried when his car got rained on?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I filled it with petroleum jelly, not Vaseline as CVS only had small jars of their house brand. Sure makes the gears turn slow. I also got a weird look from the clerk as I was buying both Petroleum Jelly and Latex gloves..... </div></div> ROFL

www.barrett-jackson.com From there you can navigate to the "Arizone 2005 Auction Results" on the left.

Thanks for bringing this back up Brian.. I have a copy of the buildsheet for that car, and it's impressive! Reminds me of the 73 convertible that was in Plano this past year. VERY well optioned cars..

Mark's GSX went for 52,920...

Thankyousir

Fact of the matter is, if I ever take my oil pump apart, then I repack it with Vaseline. I will NOT try to start the engine without pre-priming first. That is the key. You will be able to feel when the oil is through the pump, because it gets very hard to turn at a high rate of speed. And really, there's not much vaseline left in the pump housing when you smash the gears in there. It all goops out!! There's maybe 2 tablespoons of the stuff in there. .....tops. And at +/- 40psi of oil pressure at cold startup, you should NOT have any problems of the vaseline getting "stuck" anywhere. I can't believe this is such a hot subject.

Is there a chapter in Iowa?

Here's his beautiful 10-10 GSX:

White on White...I like that color combo

Mark Reeves' 70 GSX will be on sometime in the next day or 2.. This car was in Plano. Apollo White car...non-numbers matching.

Here is the thread being referred to, and it has some pictures and an asking price in it as well. http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=269403&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 Good luck!

The difference between using grease and using vaseline, is the fact that Vaseline will heat up and melt/mix with the oil and virtually diasppear. I've primed my oil pump with and without the help of vaseline...it works both ways. Most of the time. I wouldn't go as far as calling Vaseline a Butcher job though.

There was a 70 Wildcat convertible running 14's at Salem, OH this year at the BPG nats.. Anyone have photos? I don't think I took any of it..but I'll look