Smartin

Yes. My assumption is that the sock was submerged in fuel, and when it finally dried up it turned to varnish. So when it was cleaned on the outside, it wasn't apparent that the inside was caked with crapola.

Yes all of that debris come from inside the screen. I think it was old dried up varnish that finally broke apart when soaked in new fuel.

Sock looked nice and clean, until I ripped it off the tube and dumped it on the floor. I couldn’t blow through it backwards.

I did the rear seal on the black 59 in this video:

Starter is rebuilt and it has a new battery. Replaced all the shocks while I had it in the air. I still HATE that rear upper shock mount design. No matter how many times I do it, there's always a fight.

Thanks to Brian and Bjorn I have two good mounts...

Pm sent

Stop the press…Bjorn has one good mount. Finding out which one

I’m in Poland right now…is it possible or for me to have you inquire? 😬

This is what’s left of mine.

Looks like one mount is good and the other is toast.

Done

I will contact them definitely.

Yes. Flight Pitch is more crisp and responsive

Both of my FP mounts are toast, and they are a rebuild service only thing. I don't have time to get them rebuilt before the nats. Is there anyone out there that has a pair I can buy or borrow to get me through the end of June??

I will add that the FP gets a bad rap because of the "G" grade retard shift position. It was used as a means of braking assistance during downhill grades. If used as a "low gear,", it would roast the transmission. I guess the engineers overestimated the capability of people to learn something new, given the dynaflow's low gear selection was a popular thing to use off the line.

I am swapping the transmission with another FP. This one has a pretty massive front seal leak, and that's beyond my scope of capabilities. It just happened that Jim called about a week ago and said it was ready to go. So I reluctantly added it to my list from hell to get completed before the nats.

LOL yep...The rear main seal on the engine makes sure of that. Now that I know the "fix" for that, and that the pan isn't difficult to drop, I will likely do it once the dust settles on the Piggy project.

I've been putting off this starter rebuild since I bought the car, and it picks RIGHT NOW to completely sh!t the bed and not work. I ripped it out of the car this evening, and will take it to Elliot tomorrow AM first thing. Still on the list for this car before we take it to Lisle: Starter (half checked off the list) Set of 4 shocks Speedometer swap? Fix a couple little minor leaks Of course all of this is on top of what I have to do with Piggy. That's a massive cluster that I shouldn't have opened up a month before the nats. There's a 50/50 chance Piggy won't make it to this show. I'm 100% sure Gonzo is going, and I will stick him in the car corral Thursday and Friday...then move him to the show field for display on Saturday.

That looks too thick to be lacquer. I bet it's acrylic enamel.

Here's my stupid YouTube video on the process.... I am happy to know that I didn't have to do a bunch of disassembly on the rear end to pull it back. I literally just disconnected the parking brake. Time saver...woohoo!

You guys would have a heart attack if you knew how many old cars still on the road with out of state plates😄 Looks like that car came straight out of 1992.

It’s very apparent that the car hasn’t been apart before, which is nice to know. But it’s fighting me at every turn. I was able to get the transmission out today. Both mounts are completely split apart…would explain the violent thunk noise when shifting into reverse. I’m also going to have CARS add engine mounts to the list. What’s another $350? The good news is that I didn’t have to disconnect anything but the parking brake on the rear end to slide it back. I also was able to get the passenger side exhaust manifold off without breaking any bolts. Scratch that….I broke the small bolt that holds on the dipstick tube for the trans. They’re usually pretty hopeless to get out in one piece. I’m still contemplating taking off the driver side so I can make it nice and clean. my goal in taking off the RH manifold was that I thought there was a leak somewhere…or a crack. I found nothing. Now it has me wondering if there is a rusted out core plug in the intake manifold. I’ll know soon.

Call me a fool for thinking I could manage having TWO cars of my own. After realizing what it's going to take to get this car where I want it to be, PLUS doing pretty much the same thing to the 58 Roadmaster right now, this isn't going to work out. Asking $25k obo, located in the St. Louis, MO area. There are two things I haven't had time to do yet, to make it where I want for a driver. I need to install shocks in all 4 corners. Also, swap the speedometer for a rebuilt one I have for it. I will likely get to the shocks before the 2022 national meet, but the speedometer will be a wild card. If it doesn't sell before the meet, I will have it in the car corral there. Clean title in hand. I've taken the car on a couple one-hour blasts on the highway at 75mph, and it stays decently cool...seems to like it. New since I bought it: Full exhaust system with two mufflers and resonators, nice and quiet New radial tires - bias ply look-alikes from Diamond Back Rebuilt carburetor Resealed torque ball Brakes have been serviced and work well Power windows have been repaired and lubed Autronic eye works! Blower motor and heater work as designed. Horn works. Power antenna works. Turn signals are functioning, and cancel cam works as designed. Radio works. Wonderbar is functional, as is the foot pedal for it. Transmission was converted to standard Dynaflow. It is not a flight pitch. It works well, though. Transmission and engine do have a couple leaks. Nothing major. For a chronicle of everything I've done to the car, plus photos and videos, here is the thread in Me and My Buick:

No, I had bought nice extra cores, so Piggy and Gonzo are (were) still whole.