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Smartin

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Everything posted by Smartin

  1. Rich Gibbs pointed me to Old Air Products in Ft. Worth that carries the acutator I have pictured above. It seems that the same part is used for many models and years. I looked up 1971 Buick, and they have a few listed that look exactly the same as this one. They're nearly $40 - I am wondering if it is worth the risk to buy it and hope it works!
  2. Does anyone know the part number for this? EDIT: nevermind - found it - 3146159
  3. The lines are brand new. I will keep a sharp lookout on ebay. Thanks Dave
  4. I posted this on Buick-59.com as well...attempting to get as many opinions as possible. Another problem on the 60 - The door that opens for air flow from the blower will not open. I checked the vacuum line coming to it, and the vac signal is very weak. It is coming from the brass tee assembly on top of the intake manifold, and the vacuum is very weak there, also. BUT the motor is pulling very healthy vacuum. I disconnected the brake booster line from the brass tee, and it is really pulling some air. Sooo...I've got a problem here. How do I get more vacuum to the area I need it most? Do I need to replace the brass tee? Or is it clogged? The door moves freely by hand, but I believe the vac can may also have a small leak as well. Where can I find one of these?
  5. Aw crap, not this thread again!! Getting the 60 back this weekend to finish up some loose ends that popped up after the car went back home. The steering still has a vibration, and I am pretty sure I know what it is. The choke is acting up again . The blower door is not opening to blow air through the ducts...should be an interesting deal to figure out. And the drivers side door does not want to shut....at all. After it left the top shop, it's been goobered up since then. Last weekend, I spent my Sunday dropping the oil pan due to an oil starvation up top. There was a 1/2" of sludge in the bottom of the pan!!! YUCK! I'm glad we caught that before Rochester. The project was actually fairly easy. The frame has holes in the crossmember for access to the oil pan bolts, and I had to remove the idler arm from the frame to drop the center link enough to get the pan to come out....that, and jack up the engine 2 inches. Total project time: 5 hours Not a great way to spend a Sunday, but it made me feel better about driving it now.
  6. Excellent advice, John. I did the exact same thing when I disassembled the entire engine compartment on the 60 I worked on recently. I took MANY MANY digital pictures and used a ziploc bag for each group of bolts and parts. It made things much more organized and easy to find once I was ready for them again. It also allowed me not to miss any parts when I reassembled it. Since I was totally unfamiliar with this model car, I made sure I documented everything I did. Now, if it was one of my 71's, then I could have gotten away with some sloppiness...since I know every nook and cranny of the cars.
  7. Ahhhh, progress! Looks good I've never seen a Buick jack look like that. I don't think that's an original.
  8. I gave up and changed my address to see if it actually comes next month. I don't want to miss that one. It's weird how all of the sudden I stop receiving this one magazine. I haven't made any changes in a year or so. I think one of the postal workers is a closet Buick nut.
  9. The "sediment" bulb is correct for your car. They all had it. It houses the fuel filter. Take note!
  10. I got it taken care-of tonight....it wasn't as bad as I thought. I was even able to replace the vertical piece against the window rail. I didn't realize the new rubber just slipped into the channel like that until I started looking closely at the new pieces. I was able to just pry out the old stuff and push in the new with a small flat screwdriver. I FINALLY have all the rubber replaced on that car....wow! This stuff is supposed to just "bolt on," but there is so much custom work you have to do to make all the rubber fit just right. Otherwise, you end up with gaps and overlap everywhere. Of course, you have to know where to run a bead of sealant, too. Water finds some interesting ways to get into a car.
  11. Mike, Thanks for the reply. I was mainly concerned about making sure everything was ok on our side as far as me being current with my dues. I'd really hate to be bitching about this, and find out that my membership has lapsed This is an odd situation. I had received a January Bugle at the beginning of February, and it was tattered pretty badly. But I had also received a hand-written addressed Bugle 2 weeks before that, and it was stuffed in a large white envelope. I can only imagine that was one you had sent? If it was, Thank you! And now it's time for me to get the March Bugle, and I still don't have my Feb mag yet. Someone must have an affection for Buick in my local post office....I guess they forgot to return this one to the outgoing mail bin. This is really frustrating - but I'm glad everything is good on this side. Thanks again for the response, Mike!
  12. Picture - don't mind the rust That will disappear soon.
  13. Still don't have my February Bugle.. It's March, right? I have emailed Mike & Nancy, but I haven't heard anything yet. I'm pretty sure I've paid my dues. The subscription end date on my last Bugle is 6/07. If I need to write a check, I will! I'd hate to miss out on any issues.
  14. The manual said to bleed the system, I need to make a bunch of complete cycles of the steering wheel. I must have sat there for 5 minutes and did nothing but turn the wheel from corner to corner. There is one more thing I will be checking - that is the tightness of the housing the actually holds the seal I replaced. I had to remove it to get the seal out, and I reinstalled it at the level I thought it was at before. I may need to tighten a bit more. That thing sure is a pain to get out of the car. It could be worse, I guess.
  15. I could try that....wouldn't hurt, considering the options.
  16. I replaced the seal in the steering shaft of the box when I had the car a couple months ago, and it is now making a vibrating noise/feel when I turn the steering wheel. It doesn't do it 100% of the time, but I'd say about 70% of the time it does it. Would I just be better off finding a used one to put in, or are these things rebuilt on a regular basis? I am all for convenience....and I had it apart once already, and I'm not looking forward to do it again.
  17. *sigh* ....yeah....I'd rather replace a heater core than take these doors apart. Oh well, not everything about cars is fun, right?
  18. Thanks Bruce. I took a better look at it last night, and I would have ot pretty much disassemble the whole door to get it out. I may cut out the outer rubber flap and replace it with a piece from the new rubber..........or just leave it as is.
  19. Michael, I can't wait to be able to follow the story on this!
  20. I've never worked on a car with these vent windows, and I need to replace the rubber in them. How does one get them apart to replace it?
  21. All those parts will interchange. The quarters are slightly different towards the top, but they can be worked with, depending on how much of the quarter you need to use.
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