Smartin
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Posts posted by Smartin
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Even with the drums in good condition, the new shoes can be way out of spec on arc compared to the drums. Don't assume they are ok just because the drum specs out good.
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Thanks Jim!
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SMS is sending the correct brown. I am going to go to a couple fabric stores around town and see if I can get something close. This stuff is outrageously expensive.
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I’ve seen some pretty horrible shoe-to-drum arcs on new shoes lately. Especially if the drum has been turned a lot. This is nearly equally important as anchor pin adjustment. Pull a drum and a shoe. Put the shoe in the drum. If it rocks like a rocking chair, it needs to be arc-ed to the drum. If you can find one locally, a clutch rebuilder sometimes has the tool to do this. I have a guy locally that does it.
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Two very important things I've learned about these braking systems in the last couple years: 1 -Make sure the brake shoes are arc-ed to the drums. 2 - Anchor pin adjustments must be made to center the shoes in the drum housing. These two items can be the biggest improvement in pedal assuming all other things are taken care of.
Anchor pin adjustment procedure is in the chassis manual.
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You're correct about green springs. That's a beautiful Electra!
I just got my samples back from SMS and they are on the money except the vinyl sample. Their sample is fawn, and it should be brown. I'm actually hoping to retain the original vinyl and only replace the cloth portions of the seat covers, though.
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Master/booster is the delco (moraine) style. Have you done anything to the braking system? It likely needs a total rebuild, looking at the rest of the car. Hoses, wheel cylinders, master/booster rebuild at the least.
Cars, LLC has the replacement choke line kit.
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Some of the photos make the aluminum lower trim look like chain mail, but it's literally just horizontal lines. I like the chain mail look, too!
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After almost a week, I have tires mounted. Firestone couldn’t figure out how to set the beads. So I took them today to a mom and pop shop nearby. I didn’t know they did these, but now I do. They had them on and balanced in 10 minutes. No joke.
I also cleaned and painted the hubcaps while I had them off. Disassembled, scrubbed, painted and reassembled. Couple hours of time that is 500% worth the effort.
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These are the actual correct size. The bias ply lookalikes are 8.20. Also, Coker is/was having a 10% off sale plus free shipping. I saved $200
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Coker classic bias ply 8.00 X 15 with 2.5” whitewall …these are the ones that were on backorder for 2 years. But they have them in stock now.
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When I took the tires and wheels to be installed, my regular shop turned me away. Corporate told them not to install tires that they don't sell as of Jan 1. Grrrr. I took them to the next place (a Firestone) and they took them. They called today and said they couldn't get the beads to set. They're going to get the "A" team on it on Monday morning. If not done by noon, they said to come pick them up. You can't make this stuff up.
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It looked like it had a lot of potential without a massive input of $, so I had to have it. These are my favorite kinds of projects...and perfect for youtube content!
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I have contacted SMS about samples..if they cannot produce, I will just find something as close as possible.
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So I bought Marty’s 60 that he had for sale here on the board. Not sure why. Sometimes they just call my name 🤣
It arrived yesterday. I started tearing into it today. New driver front glass since I had the door panel off to fix the stuck outer door handle plunger. Once that was done, I pulled the heater core out and dropped it off at the radiator shop for recore. Wheels are at the tire shop to have new 8.00x15 wide whites mounted.
Besides needing a serious detail, I’m looking to do the following in the immediate future…
New exhaust system - this one is toast.
New passenger side front glass, also broken.Radiator flush. Runs hot.
Floor repair, followed by carpet.
Headliner if I can find someone to make a cloth one.
Paint polish…I hit a couple small spots on it today to see how it would react. It should brighten it up a LOT.
Extended plan: new seat upholstery. Maybe a trunk material overhaul.
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They are not available aftermarket and are tough to find. Tougher to find with all of the parts. Expect to pay $1000 for a complete restored one.
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Is that a curb feeler?
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People blindly thinking that all BOP engines are the same, and since Olds had the Rocket name, it stuck in peoples' heads. Grooooooan.
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ah ye olde 455 rocket.
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The torque convertor is fixed in place on a dynaflow and can't be pushed back like on a T400.
Pete, I literally ran into a very similar problem a couple weeks ago. Dropped pan and didn't see anything weird. Performed compression check and all cylinders were at 165 except #8. It was 70. Shoved an articulating borescope in the plug hole and saw some scoring on cylinder wall. But it looked like the exhaust valve was stuck open a touch. Removed head and both valves were fine......but the cylinder was is scored so badly that I can feel it with the tip of my fingers. Surely a broken ring or piston skirt (on the one I'm working on). I suspect either the same for you or a couple burned valves.
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I suppose not, which is why I asked about a borescope.
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The engine sits back much further in the 60 than it does in the later cars. And if it's a dual exhaust car, exhaust shouldn't have to come down. But if there are already two down cylinders, just pull it.
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Through the plug holes. If ring is broken it will score the wall and you can see it.
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55 Roadmaster Parking lock won't engage
in Buick - Post War
Posted
When you're spinning the tires, are they off the ground? If so, are they spinning in opposite directions? If so, that is normal.