Smartin
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Posts posted by Smartin
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Ah....replace headlight switch. Looks like dimmer needs help too LOL
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There should be constant 12v going to the headlight switch. Power only goes to the dimmer when headlights are on. Sooooo, there is a heavy gauge red wire at the headlight switch you'll need to check for 12v. If there is nothing there, get the wiring diagram out and chase that wire backward.
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Expansion rates, and amount of expansion. Panel bond is great for pinch weld areas and other spots where there is an overlap, but not recommended for sheet metal patching because of this.
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LOL! Me too...carry on.
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I am going to offer my two cents even though you may not want to hear it...sorry...
Using panel bond for a patch repair like that will come back to haunt you once the car gets in the sun. The line will "ghost" and never go away. In the sun (heat), it will appear worse. This is known in the body repair world now, and I also know from personal experience on a car I did a couple years ago. I cringe every time I see it.
The patch looks great, though
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As most have already stated...headlight switch (since you also have no taillights) and also look at dimmer switch. If your switches are working correctly, there are likely more than one problem. Check grounds. One ground wire per side on the headlights (grounded to core support), and there is usually a ground wire somewhere coming off the taillight harness in or at the trunk area.
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Is that panel bond you used on the patch panel?
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At least it’s not terrible to access 🙃
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I think it’s because the element diameter is too big.
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I’ve used it many times since then…seems that the bolt needs to have some size to really be effective, or like a stud as you mentioned. Small bolts like 7/16 and smaller didn’t seem to get red hot at all when I would use it. But larger bolt heads and nuts are fine.
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I'll have to see what the actual cause is before I make any moves. I already have a new seal for it. Just need to see how bad the sealing surface is when I pull it apart.
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Jack up the rear end and roll the wheels by hand. Listen for a sound.
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I had a very similar problem with a 57 I had a couple years ago. If I put it in gear, it sounded very metallic and grinding/slipping. Ended up being the rear splines on the driveshaft that engage the rear end were stripped out.
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Torque ball seal is fine....the inner seal that closes off the trans fluid to the torque tube must have given up.
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Looks like the rear fluid seal on the transmission is not happy. I have the Exxon Valdez on the garage floor near the back of the torque tube. Not a happy camper.
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It's pretty much impossible to install it wrong.
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Looking for a blower resistor for a non-AC 60, and the boot that connects the blower motor housing and outer heater box.
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Picked up the heater core today, and while I was there, we pressure tested it with the heater control valve connected. Of course, there was a leak between the two pieces. That was an easy fix with an o-ring. If it had leaked through the stem of the valve, I was going to be in trouble.
So I got it all installed this afternoon and found out that I am missing a few items.
Blower motor resistor...apparently made of unobtainium. I ordered one for a mid 60's mustang because it has the extra single spade connector that many of them don't. Hopefully that works until I can find one that looks right.
The rubber boot that connects the blower housing to the outer heater box is missing. Another fun one to find.
I wanted to do a coolant flush on the engine and radiator today, but it got cold as soon as the sun was coming down...so I pulled the plug on the day. Mid 40's tomorrow.
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I usually don't even use adhesive unless there is a problem with a portion of the rubber wanting to walk or stick up.. Pull the old ones off. Make sure holes for clips are clean. Install new. Doors will be stiff to close, but they will break in. Easy job. But yes, $$$$$$$$$ for us 4 door slammers.
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I just did this last weekend on my 60. Took about 2 hours to do all 4 wheels. Disassemble, clean all pieces with 0000 steel wool and some sort of liquid lubricant, mask off black areas, paint, unmask, assemble. DONE🤣
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I made some progress in the last week. I actually ordered a headliner from SMS because they said those ship quickly. We'll see how that turns out, I guess. PLUS they are the only place that will supply a correct cloth material, and not some diamond pattern vinyl that isn't correct. I installed the vinyl in my Roadmaster, and it's a giant PITA.
Here is current progress: New tires are on. Wheel covers are cleaned and painted. New driver side glass is in. Heater core is at the radiator shop.
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Shots fired! 🤣
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That's what these other cars were, too...just not much there worth the trouble. Lots of "smalls" but unless you're a$$ deep in a 58 special 4 door resto, they're not worth the grab. Unless you have a ton of room to hold all these things.
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We had a big auction with several 58's in that condition here this past summer. They all went for less than $400. Wasn't worth my effort to haul one of those home for what I would've gotten out of it. 4 door specials and sedans are tough parts cars unless you're looking for dash or engine compartment parts.
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Skylark gs site
in Buick Gran Sport (GS)
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Are you referring to the 65 site? I heard it MIGHT not be back up again. Not sure, just what I read at one point.