farnelle

Wow Larry. Some collection. I thought my interests were varied.

There is nothing you can do with the bumper as it is anodized. It could be stripped and either re-anodized or polished, but those are your only options.

I am the Sec/Treas. Give me your name and I will check to see if your check arrived. I only make deposits one time a month, so it is possible I have it and it has not cleared yet. I would rather you respond to reattaclub@aol.com. Ed

Jim Finn at jfinn@cpinternet.com should have what you need.

Bill, That is correct. You can also find the code on the build sheet in your trunk. Regards, Ed

Nic, Jim's computer is probably under 4 feet of snow and totally frozen. Might wait until July to give him a try.

Be aware that you can get quite a bit of glare off the shifter.

Standard Claret red with Burgundy interior. I wonder what color the top is and why they are not showing any pictures with the top up? If mileage is correct, the price is not bad. Would ask if they have factory wheels.

I also have one with some slight stains on the front cover that I will sell for $20 plus postage.

And you are certainly going to bring it to Oregon this summer so we can all see it? Ed

I have several Teves Mark II Antilock Brake System manuals that I would like to sell. The manual is an 82 page training manual that GM produced to train GM mechanics on the Teves system. The contents are Introduction, Components, Operation, Diagnostics, Service and Diagnostic Tools. It is very easy to read and is fully illustrated. This is a good manual for the DIY's as well as one to carry to the local mechanic who might not fully understand the system. Price is $30 plus $3 postage. PM me if interested. Ed

There is a company named Color-Plus, Leather Restoration Services, LLC. Joanne Price is the owner in Milford, PA. The number is 570-686-3158, email jpcolorplus@earthlink,net. If you send her a small swatch of material (I got mine from under a seat) she will match the color perfectly. I did a set of tan seats that were showing rub wear and the came out looking almost new. The process is basically a cleaning, softening and dying process. Easy to do and I would recommend buying her brush for applying the dye. I hope she is still in business. I have not purchased from her in a couple of years. Good luck.\ Ed

You should be able to tow with car in gear. Normally towed with the front off the ground anyway. If they cannot get to the front of the car, a good tow company should have some dollys to place under the front wheels to move it enough to get hooked up.

I see Padgett's point. I have MG "B" MG "C" Austin Healey 3000 BJ8, Jaguar XK8, Olds 88 and 98. I am old and so are the cars.

Bill, the Reatta Division can handle electronic payments as long as it is Pay Pal.

Are you talking about the metal trim ring that has four tabs? I should have one. Let me look tomorrow. If I have one I will send it to you. I am in Columbia, SC. PM me your address. Ed

You guys are brave. I did one set of rear struts about 10 years ago and swore I would never do any more. Mine was a southern rust free car and it took me a couple of nights of grinding to get the nuts off. Next car that needed rear struts went to the strut fixing store. They quoted me $60 per side and I supplied the struts. When they finished they said they wish they had not given me a quote before they started. I'll bet the guy who designed the torx bolt for the top has had a thousand good laughs. Same problem exists on sway bar end links. Maybe GM did this to up the time in the shop rate manuals for dealers.

For those of you who store cars and are concerned about mice, there is a great product out there called Fresh Cab. It comes in individual pouches and is made of all natural products. It has a fairly pleasant smell (unlike mothballs) and will last for the winter season. It will absolutely deter mice from getting near your car. A couple of pouches in the car, one on the engine and one in the trunk will do the trick. Also place a couple near the doors of the garage. The product was developed by a farmer in one of the Dakotas after he could not keep mice from eating the wires on his farm equipment stored in the winters. (I thought mice would freeze to death in the Dakotas in the winter) You use to have to buy the product on the internet, but now it is available at Tractor Supply and maybe other outlets.

Two screws hold the Climate control module, remove them and pull the module out enough to remove the connector from the back of the module. Then four screws hold the radio unit. Remove them pull the radio out a ways and then unplug the antenna, and the connectors from the back of the radio.

Personally, I would rent a tow dolly from UHaul and find a friend with a pick up. You risk cannibalizing your car and still not getting it started.

My green vert is on this side of heaven.

Actually all kits install exactly the same way. This is not rocket science. I have used kits from several vendors and they are all good quality.

I'll bet that UK cats fan is a University of Kentucky Wildcat fan.

Try a pair of channel lock pliers and a long screwdriver as a puller. Be careful to place the pliers only on the rubber end and not the heat shield. I should pop off with a little effort.

The ABS Power Brake system is very similar to the Reatta system. The Oldsmobile power brake systems in the mid 50's were prone to catastrophic failure. Brakes on minute and nothing the next and it is hard to stop almost 2 tons at 70 MPH. I had one of the ABS power brake systems installed on my 1955 S88 and now I can drive it with piece of mind. It does sound a little funny to hear the system pump up when the ignition is switch on or after applying the brakes. The other nice thing about their system is that you have about 10 stops if the system fails and then mechanical brakes after that.