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About carlnut50

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  1. Look for a vaccum leak. Use a 3' or so length of garden hose or equvilent. Put one end to your best ear and search around the carb and intake manifold for a leak. Manifold to head gasket is a likely spot and any vaccum accessories that run off a rubber vac hose.
  2. Check for vacuum leak. Use a length of garden hose , one end to your best ear, search around intake manifold for leak. Also, pull coil wire out of coil a little ways while running and observe spark. Also, make sure spark plugs are not too long, if they are the intake valve will hit them and close the gap. I actually did this one time on a flathead Plymouth.
  3. When I worked at a small town Chevy dealership in the 70"s, a couple came in and ordered a chevelle station wagon with woodgrain sides, rally wheels, big block engine, 4 speed , bucket seats and roof rails. It ran and drove about like a SS Chevelle except it was a shade heavier. I also worked on a Monte Carlo with a 3 speed manual on the collum shifter. I thought that a bit strange.
  4. I am not familiar with Packard engines but I wonder if there is a pipe plug on the cylinder head leading into the combustion chamber like the Chrysler family flathead engines. On them, it is at # 6 cylinder and is directly above the piston. Remove the plug and insert a straight rod like a welding rod etc. Rotate the engine clockwise very slowly until the rod stops rising and mark the front pulley with a mark lined up with the pointer. Now, rotate a few degrees past and then begin to rotate counterclockwise. This time, as soon as the rod stops mark the pully again. Exact TDC is between the two
  5. 1956 was the last year Plymouth and Dodge cars used that exact configuration. The flathead six was used through 1959 but the mounts are different 57-59. Chrysler and Desoto 1954 because that was the last year for sixes, I believe. Trucks, I do not know.
  6. If it has the pins, Cut a short length of pipe for a standoff and a long screw or threaded rod with a washer and nut. This will jack the pin out. Or find a socket that will work for a standoff. Thats how I did it on the Chevys and Pontiacs.
  7. I have never owned a Studebaker but made a few observations in the past 65 years. I believe that Generally they were pretty good cars with a few exceptions. I think the small six cylinder cars were bad to use oil after they got some miles on them. I remember several Champions that always blew a cloud of blue smoke out the tailpipe. Also, I have a cousin that is in his eighties and grew up next to a Studebaker dealership. He told me that when he was young he had seen many Champions in the service dept getting an engine overhaul with only 30 or 40 thousand miles. I also heard the bigger cars did
  8. If you have any kind of external noise on the outside of an engine such as vac leak or squealing crankshaft seal or whatever, the very best way to find it is with a 3 ft length of heater hose or old garden hose. Place one end to your best ear and use the other end to search with. You will be surprised.
  9. Even a T model ford uses a side draft carb.
  10. carlnut50

    Rod NZL

    Two things I can think of. One is the little bleed back hole in the bottom of the mc resevoir being stopped up with trash. The other is the brake rod length. If it is adjusted too long it can cause a mc to not release pressure.When the mc piston is all the way back the rod should be slightly loose. Maybe 1/32" end play or so.
  11. Hey Commodore, The best I remember the 39 transmission difference between Roadking and Deluxe is the transmission top. All the shifting mechanics are in the top and can be switched out. 40 and up shift rails and forks are in the side cover and case.
  12. Hey frcc16, This job can be accomplished in just a few minutes if you have a lift ro raise your car on. Even outside under a shade tree it is not a very hard job. Getting the old seal out is sometimes hard. Just drill a hole in it and run a self tapping screw in and either pry the seal out or using visegrips on the screw and a hammer on the visegrips. Seals with a lip can be removed with a screwdriver and a hammer.
  13. I may be reading this wrong but if you only need to replace the pinion seal you don't need to drain the oil or mess with the carrier gasket. Remove the drive shaft at the differential, remove the pinion nut, remove the yoke, remove the seal, install a new seal and everything else again. I believe those old Chrysler differentials use a spacer and shims to preload the pinion bearings, Not a crush sleeve. If this is correct, it would be hard to overtighten the pinion nut.
  14. 35 through 39 I believe, Plymouth and Dodge, cars not trucks. I am not certain about Desoto and Chrysler.
  15. If you take it all apart and bead blast it, you will have a heck of a time getting it clean. You will always wonder if there is grit left inside the housing.
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