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Everything posted by akrussell

  1. What is the recommended method for cleaning and prepping leaf springs for paint? I have had a few people that I don't want to sand/bead blast the leaves as it might affect the spring properties of the metal. My plan was to dismantle, bead blast each leaf, epoxy prime, paint and reassemble. Thoughts? Thanks
  2. While dismantling the rear-end for my Franklin Olympic (same as REO Flying Cloud), I noticed that the rivets holding the ring gear were loose and that there was quite a bit of play between the gear and the carrier. I drilled out the rivets to discover that they indeed had a worn shoulder from years of use. I've found replacement rivets (5/16" dia countersunk) however, I need some advice on how to get these reinstalled. Preferably I'd like to have someone do the work for me. Any suggestions? Thanks, Dan
  3. Here's a photo of my Olympic Coupe...
  4. akrussell

    Frame Paint

    Thanks everyone for your advice. For the moment I think I'll probably stick with the acrylic urethane since I have so much time and money invested in the frame. For the next car, which is in the works, I'll most likely powder coat the frame and suspension parts. Another question - were suspensions (front and rear) assembled and then painted as a unit or was each piece individually painted? I've paint the rear end, backing plates, etc and now looking to assemble. The fasteners either need to be painted or installed in their natural finish which of course leads to rust. I'm wondering if I should have assembled everything and painted as a unit but I don't see how the paint would reach every nook and cranny. Thoughts? Thanks again, Dan
  5. akrussell

    Frame Paint

    I'm trying to decide on what paint to use for the frame on my '33 Franklin Olympic. I previously sandblasted, epoxy primed, and painted with PPG acrylic urethane black but I've noticed two things about this paint that I'm not sure I like. The first is that it tends to have a "plastic" look to it and not like the original paint. The other is that it seems to chip easily when installing nuts and bolts for example. I'm getting ready to paint other chassis pieces and before I proceed, I'd like to get some advice or experience from others. Thanks in advance, Dan
  6. Does anyone know of a source for 1933 Reo Flying Cloud motor mounts? They are rubber doughnut-shaped with a steel ring around it approximately 3" in diameter. Thanks
  7. I'm looking for a source for replacement "Silent-U" bolts for the leaf springs my 1933 Reo chassis. I was able to save one or two during the teardown of the car but others had to be cut off. I understand several brands of cars use these in that era. Does anyone know who may sell these? Thanks
  8. Thanks everyone for the insight on this. Perhaps the condition of the brake system has been exacerbated by the lack of running time on this car. I need to do some checking based on the discussion here and will provide an update soon. The Franklin Olympic is a '33 model year based on a '32 REO Flying Cloud chassis and running gear. It does have Lockheed brakes. Thanks again, Dan
  9. I don't want to resurrect the great brake fluid debate here but I will ask the following anyway. I recently got my Franklin Olympic out of museum storage where it has sat for the past several years. It has extremely low miles for a 24 year old restoration and I've owned it for nine years. It has silicone fluid in the brake system. In driving it both before and after storage, I noticed that the brakes squeal and most notably the passenger rear wheel is covered with black dust from the brakes. I also noticed that once the brakes are applied, the pedal tends to stiffen up and stay high as if the brake cylinder is locked into extended position. I pulled off the rear wheel and noticed that the forward shoe is almost completely worn off while the rear shoe seems normal. I have a set of wheel and master cylinders that have been completely rebuilt and ready to go. However, the rebuilder recommends that silicone fluid should not be used as it tends to swell the rubber parts and potentially locking the brakes, etc. Also, I've replaced the brake light switch on the master cylinder several times over the years and occasionally need to add fluid (I believe some of the wheel cylinders leak). I don't have an opinion on which fluid is best but the commonly mentioned problems about the use of silicone fluid appear to occurring on my car. Any recommendations or similar experiences? If I decide to replace the wheel cylinders and go to DOT3, how does one flush the silicone out of the lines? Thanks, Dan
  10. 1933 Franklin Olympic 18A Sedan; engine rebuilt by previous owner but never run, manifold heater, rear-mounted spare, needs some body work and paint, transmission is out of the car, has been stored for decades and is a very restorable car. Asking $8000. Please contact me at dfrussell@hotmail.com.
  11. I am looking to purchase a water pump for a 1929 Reo Flying Cloud