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Everything posted by WillBilly53

  1. The pop seems to be coming from the right side (passenger side) of the engine. Possibly the exhaust manifold on that side. The video was after about 3 starts. She has 0 problem starting up. She starts every single time without hesitation. Could the popping be something very serious? I'm a little gunshy with starting her and warming her up. I've got to go to Charleston on business tomorrow but I'll be back Sunday to mess around again. I will definitely get better pictures then and some more video. I really appreciate ya'lls help.
  2. Here's some video I just took. There were a couple of bigger pops you can here at the end. http://youtu.be/hhvm2WgwfNI
  3. Good point Lamar, it's either or. I'll look into throttle linkage as well!
  4. Thanks Jon, I will do what you suggest in regards to what Willie was trying to get through my lame brain and report back!
  5. Thanks Chris, Lamar and I got her running back in 2012 for the first time. She sat for a bit as I still had a ton of other stuff I was trying to get done on her to get her roadworthy - fast forward a couple of years to august/september/october of last year. I was trying to get her ready for my wedding and she started fine but died down like I'm describing. Wedding/honeymoon/holidays - I had to let her sit over the winter and decided to concentrate on the modified brake system (that's a whole other story) finally got that done and wanted to start her up to go for a test drive around the block. and that's where we are. Fixed the popping sound with fresh gas, but she won't idle without me holding the throttle just a little bit and when I tried to drive her the other day there was little to no power. I forgot to mention that she seems to do fine when I put her in reverse. I will do as you suggest also and pull the carb and spray the ever loving crap out of it with carb cleaner!
  6. She'll start up great without a hitch and I can keep her idling if I hold the throttle just a little bit. and she sounds great to me (but my ears probably aren't tuned to what is good and what is bad) As soon as I let the throttle go she'll die down and slowly putter out. The popping is gone since I put fresh gas in the tank. The braaaap sound was when i disconnected the tube at the vacuum advance. But I think Willie was saying that this could be because of a low battery? (this was before I fully charged it today) I'll pick up some seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. I don't know Gary, but I may swing by next week and see him. Thanks for the tip Lamar! "He's old like me and knows his stuff, not like me." You're too funny!
  7. Battery fully charged, put a few drops of oil in each cylinder. No change in the compression. Now I'm really worried... I found the itemized receipt for the rebuild not sure this will help: Special Front Cam Bearing Disassemble Engine VAT Complete Engine Debore? and something (there's a fold on the receipt can't read) Install Cam Bearings Polish Crankshaft Resize Rods Press Pistons OFF &/ On Rods Drill out broken bolts (10) Repair Oil Pump Rebuild Rocker Shafts V8 Valve Job Surface Heads Install Valve Guides Assemble Engine Any ideas of what I should do next?
  8. Thanks for sticking with me guys! I hooked up the charger and the indicator lights showed that the battery was indeed low. My charger is slow and takes hours, so I may not be able to do another compression test until late tonight or in the morning. In the meantime I'll see if I can scrounge up the paper work from the rebuild. I do know that I ordered the complete kit from Kanter back in '03 when the rebuild was done. I put oil in it back then, but never got to starting it because of other stuff I had to do on the car (electrical, fuel system, life). I drained the oil last October and put fresh oil in before I tried starting her. Then I got sidetracked with the brakes. Anyways at what point do I call in the big guns of a professional? I'm terrified that I'm going to do something wrong and screw it up. Thanks ya'll! p.s. not saying that screw ups or maladjustments can't happen with a professional, but the guy that rebuilt my engine has been in business over 40 years and engine rebuilds are all he does (for what it's worth)
  9. Willie, I must have not disconnected the vacuum advance. I disconnected the tube that goes from the distributor to the carburetor. Clearly I know exactly what I'm doing, LOL!
  10. I did the test with one that screws into the spark plug holes. I removed all the spark plugs. I have not redone the test with a few drops of oil in the cylinders yet. I'll do that tomorrow!
  11. Okay, cool. Thanks Bhambulldog! So with all this seemingly checking out okay, I'm thinking the carburetor needs some tuning/adjusting?
  12. okay, so here's what I've done so far: Brand new fresh gas in the tank as pretty much everyone suggested here. New fuel filter. This seemed to take care of the popping sound quite well! She started like a champ, but still won't idle and stalls after a few seconds. I can keep her idle all day if I hold the throttle just a little (is it possible I need to adjust the set screw for the fast idle cam? checked the timing. - good checked the carburetor - jets are spraying, fast idle cam and choke all seem to be in order I disconnected the vacuum advance as Willie suggested, but all I got when I tried to start her was a BRAAAAAAP sound similar to trying to start when the battery is dead. I removed the valve covers and tried to push and pull on the rockers as JohnD suggested, but they wouldn't budge. That's a good thing, correct? Put the covers back on and did a compression test and here's where I am worried: 1-3-5-7 all are at 145 lbs/sqr. inch. 2-4-6 are at 130 with 8 being at 135 The manual calls for 170 lbs/sq. inch with only a 10 lb leeway. Yikes! The battery is charged, but probably not fully. Is it possible this is causing the low compression? Thanks for everyone's help so far!
  13. I'm playing on her right now. Gas was over a year old. I drained it last night and it was clearing with a hint of Amber. The timing is good and carb is spraying into the barrels well. Just about to disconnect the vacuum advance, then take a look at the automatic choke. Stay tuned...
  14. Alright! Looks like I've got a full day tomorrow. I managed to drain the tank this evening (it was tons of fun, ) I'll put some fresh gas in her and start going down the troubleshoot list. I also picked up a compression tester. Looking forward to using this for my first time. Willie, I know your feelings about Pertronix, lol! I hope to report back with some good news tomorrow night.
  15. Thank you everyone, this is all excellent advice. I'm going to try and get out there today/tomorrow and I'll report back. The gas is about a year old Lamar, Marie is one helluva woman! carbking, I did not install an alternator - I've kept the original (rebuilt) generator. Sounds like I should look into getting an alternator?
  16. Thank you so much everyone. I think I'll first drain the fuel tank (and put some in the lawnmower, lol!) Put some fresh fuel in and put on a new fuel filter. The fuel is definitely not fresh. Then double check the timing as I have a suspicion that's not up to par. Lol, Willie, I'm pretty sure I owe you a case of Fat Tire from all of your help over the years. Pulling the heads sounds fun! Could I pull the valve covers off and manual turn the engine to see if any valves are sticking first?
  17. Now that we've had the first decent day without any rain or cold and I've finally gotten the brakes done over the winter, I'm wanting to take her around the block. The 'ol girl starts right up without any problem. However she'll idle for a few seconds and then die. When I manage to shift her into Low gear to drive her, she seems to have no power. When I give her gas, there's some pops and hesitations. There seems to be no difference in her sluggishness when I put the pedal closer to the floor. I'm terrified that I'm doing damage to her. I realize this could be a lot of things, but I'd appreciate any advice on where to begin my troubleshooting. Professionally rebuilt engine, rebuilt carburetor, new plugs/wires, new exhaust, Pertronix electronic ignition, new fuel tank and lines. Lamar, wanna come over sometime? I can get some Fat Tire for ya!
  18. Yes, Bob's Automobilia. I think they are the same tanks from Tanks. Inc. Also after looking through my receipts, I actually purchased mine from Tanks, inc. Sorry for the confusion! Here's the one I got for my '53 Super 2 Door: 1- B1-C 1941-54 GM Fuel Tanks - Fits Many Models) @ $250.00 = $250.00 http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=130/category_id=102/mode=prod/prd130.htm
  19. I got a brand new aftermarket one for my 53 Super from Bobs. It's about $250, if I remember correctly. It works perfectly.
  20. Thanks for posting about the group, Dale. Was not aware and definitely excited to see what it's all about when the website gets back up. Will keep checking back!
  21. That is a killer kustom. Could use some be ventiports!
  22. Welcome to the forums, fellow '53 Super-er! Don't know about the trans, but just wanted to welcome you. If the engine is a V-8, and it looks like you've got 3 ventiports on the fenders per side, then you do have a Super. x2 what John and Allan have already mentioned. As Allan mentioned, and from what I've found, the '52 manual has been a lot more useful. The '53 manual is more like a supplement to the '52 to cover things that were new that year. (V-8 engine, 12 volts)
  23. Excellent. Thanks for the confirmation Pete!
  24. When looking at the car from the front, is it possible to adjust the hood left to right and vice versa? Like with shims between the cowl and hinges? Mine seems to be shifted to the left.
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