Paul S

With proper gaps in the sheetmetal and the wire feed and heat set correctly, a mig will do a real nice job, especially if you use CO2/Argon mix. Straight CO2 works well but does not produce as nice of a weld. CO2 will work better on dirty metals, is less costly, BUT is NOT recommended on unibody cars. The CO2 can cause carbon imbrittlement in the metal, causing stress cracks.. I never used flux core wire without gas, so I can not give any feedback on that, other than you could probably get more slag inclusion in the weld that could pop out at a later date and ruin you work. A MIG will definetly put less stresses in the body than a gas torch.

How many is TOO MANY???? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Just wondering <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

How complete of a dist. are you looking for? Do you need cap rotor and all, or just the housing? I should have them. E-Mail me.

Dynaflash8 Still have the Packard, but the beard is getting gray <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />. We hope to be in Alabama with the '25 Dodge. Say HI to Judy. Paul

Dynaflash There is one in a junkyard north of me that has [or maybe by now HAD] stainless ventshades that ran the full length of the car. There also was one just over the hill from me in a yard, but that yard was cleaned out a few years ago. How is everyone down your way?? Paul

Wood spoke, you can use a nut that fits the axle with a bolt turned in against the axle and than hit it with a hammer. For Steel disc wheels, hub pullers are still available from most tool suppliers.

Just moving it back to the top for awhile.

Just moving it back to the top for awhile.

I am giving you the part #. They do not have to look it up!

Go to NAPA and order a pump # M2090. It has the glass bowl and should be around $40. You should be able to get to it from under the hood.

If the keys are square you can probably get them at a hardware store. If not try here for the keys. http://www.mcmaster.com/

Steve I looked thru several manuals and cannot find a spec. Maybe it is 1-2 grunts? Anyway, the nut should be tight enough for the taper to drive the car, not the key. The key alone will not take the torque.

As Fordee9r said, there should be an inner seal that keeps the oil from the hub. The outer seal is basically a dust seal to keep dirt out of the bearing. Usually there is a plug or grease fitting at the end of the axle housing to lube the bearings. If you have gear lube at the hub, the inner seal is bad. The only thing that wears the key and keyway is an improperly tighten axle nut.

The only problem is the sludge is also setteling in oil gallies and other places you do not want it. I will a agree it does not sound good to have the dirt suspended and carried around the system. It sounds like either way has its drawbacks. I run detergent oils, rebiult engine or not.

All I know is that my '54 "CHEAP" Panama HDTP doors do not rattle as did my '58 Olds 4 door sdn did. Or how about this for quality of the '50's, A piece of casting missing out of the trans on my '57 "Top of the line" Fury! As I said earlier, quality was probably lower than prewar, but I still think it was better than most cars of that era.

Are you sure it wasn't built by the Galloway Gasoline Engine Co.?? They did build some Motor Wagons.

I will agree that the pre war Packards are better than the post war. BUT a post war Packard is still a better built car than most any other car of that era.

After filing the points, take a piece of paper or, a dollar bill works real good, and wipe it thru the points. This cleans any filings or oil left bhind.

Just a wire. The armour is an early form of anti-theft.

The "Special" roadsters and tourings had nickle shells & bumpers. The regular cars did not have bumpers and the shells were body color which is Black.

I am pretty sure it was a '52 conv. I have the tape, gotta watch it again one day.

A good rule of thumb that we use in industrial applications for pins and bushings is .001" of clearance for every 1" of pin diameter.

Go to your local Dodge or Chrysler dealership. They still sell it in a spray can.

Did you use any special type of primer? I am doing a '26 IHC and will be running into the same problem.<BR> Thanks,

Try these numbers at a NAPA. They worked on a '34 Ply. I did for a friend.<BR>United 3595 left rear 1 1/8 X 1 1/4"<BR> 3596 right rear " <BR> 6353 left front " <BR> 6354 right front "