CBoz

Looks like I have a call to make...

What's on the cover? I don't think I've received mine yet.

It looks like spare air for the tires.

That looks to me like the factory system. If so, the stock cross-over pipe will work with it. Here's some pics that might help: Heater system for 1937 Lincoln Zephyr

My pleasure. If you need more detailed pics, just let me know. I answered last night, had a beer, and promptly went to sleep!

At a somewhat less prestigious show , "Rita" and I were at Classics at the Capital in Raleigh this past weekend, positioned near the entrace. It was amazing how many folks had not even heard of Zephyrs before. The more we get 'em out there, the more people who will know.

These are some pictures Ed Spagnolo passed on to me. Evidently, he had done some work on the '40 convertible. Great to see Zephyrs at Pebble Beach. Just goes to show folks (not us; we already knew) that you don't have to pay millions for a car that looks like a million.

Thanks for the reminder. Here's some pictures around the sides. If you need something specific, just let me know. A little dirty, but I haven't detailed her since some tours we did this summer.

I'm back. Was at a show in Raleigh and just got back with the Zephyr. Let the car and me cool off for awhile, and I'll take some pics and post them

Hello Folks - Gene Toornman, who has just recently completed the restoration of his '37 coupe, has an extra set of the long chrome pieces that go around the coupe seat. I have the small side pieces as well (but not the seat stop hardware). For a very small fee + shipping, Gene and I will be glad to sell these pieces to someone who is restoring a '37 coupe and needs them. If this is you, please respond to me by private message. To reiterate, Gene really wants to get these to someone who needs them, not a parts hoarder, so let me know. Thanks, Cecil Bozarth

There's one way to find out. I had to make my own as well, though it doesn't look as good as yours.

OK, blackwalls on the passenger side, whitewalls on the driver side.

My car has 7600 miles on it since a ground-up restoration, and I've had the same thing since Day 1. If I try to start it when it's hot, it will hesitate for a second or two, then turn over. If it bothers you enough, you might be able to get a higher-torque non-original starter or one with upgraded internals, but your problem is not uncommon.

Here are the rules for wide whitewalls, and they are not subject to debate : 1. Higher-end and more formal cars, and cars with pontoon fenders, yes 2. Sports cars and pickup trucks, no 3. Cars with earlier style open fenders (subject to Rules 1 & 2), owner discretion 4. Rules 1 - 3 notwithstanding, cars outside of the whitewall era should not have them Now, really, looking at the pic below, do you think the car would look better in blackwalls? Hell, even the driver is wearing whitewalls...

Originally, fender and skirt weltings were painted body color. On your fender skirts, which get moved around a fair amount, instead of painting the black rubber and waiting for the paint to inevitably crack off (which it will), you might consider getting vinyl weltings molded in the color you need. That's what I did for my fender skirts after the painted rubber ones started to look shabby, and I'm very pleased. The vinyl weltings have a slight grain to them, but it's really not that noticeable.

I don't have any recent pics, but trust me, I take the car out regularly for drives in the country. In fact, I just went through my first set of brake shoes and had to replace them (7500 miles, but that's because I had one wheel not well adjusted and it wore through unevenly. If I had properly balanced the wheels, I would have gotten 10K miles easily from the set).

Just to close the loop, I don't know for sure what the exact formulation of the original stuff was, and I wouldn't know where to guide you to get it. My car just has generic 3M modern undercoating on it. Wish I could be more help.

Good question. As far as I can tell from looking at a couple old cars, the undercoat is *not* the same as the very rough, hard "Body Schultz" stuff you find on the inside doors. Depending on what you want, zazothex' recommendations make sense.

Yeah, I can't remember where I got my weatherstripping, but there aren't that many vendors, so who knows what is precisely correct.

I'm away from the car right now, but the previous position looks correct. I'm not sure it's going to work like you'd want under the sill; the seal should be where the door edge is. I would go back to the original position, but maybe position it up a little -- you'd be surprised how being just a little off can cause drag on things like this. Good luck!

In my humble opinion, while Frank Lloyd Wright and Raymond Loewy were fine designers in their own right, neither of them could hold a candle to E.T. Gregorie when it came to automotive design (and yes, I've seen Loewy's Studebaker work).

Just good old 3M weatherstripping glue is all you need. Make sure it's black and not that yellow "Gorilla Snot" they sometimes sell. The gasket that goes on the front edge of the door goes (as you said) from above the top hinge, then down, then wraps around the curve at the bottom front edge before stopping. The TOP piece is the only piece that glues to the body, and it runs from just above the belt line on the rear of the door to the front (in effect an inverted U). Hope this helps, and send us pics when you're done!

Not sure, but it sounds like you are talking about the piece that goes on the front of the door, around the hinges, since these are the only pieces that have a cut-out. The first two pics show how the weatherstripping goes around the hinges on my '37 coupe. The last shot shows the piece that actually goes across the bottom. Hope this helps. Sorry for the lighting, but I have the car up and the wheels off for brake work, so cannot get outside for better light.

You and I know it's always easier to "rod" a car with flashy, new parts than it is to do a proper restoration where so much time and attention have to go into it to get the "little" things right. For my money, I'd take that butterscotch original!

You're welcome. I've been negligent about visiting (been crazy busy at work, but that's another story...) and giving the site the support it deserves. Getting condensors is next to impossible for these radios. I have one on the lead to the thermostat on the radiator, one on the generator cut-out, and two on the coil. Radio seems to work fine without all the others.