CBoz

Hey Matt - I guess I'm not clear what you've changed, if anything, since the old welting was on. Did it fit ok before, but not anymore with the new stuff? I've looked at my fenders and skirts, and in my case at least, I can tell it's going to take a little bit of bodywork to get them to fit, once the fenders have the splashpans in and everything is buttoned down tight. I'd be interested to hear what experiences others have had.

Just remember though, if it was up to Old Henry, there wouldn't have *been* a Zephyr for us to enjoy. It was all Edsel's and Bob Gregorie's doing.

See pic. This is the problem when you have more than one prima donna in the garage!

Hey Ace - Well, if you weren't busy messin' around with cars that put the drive wheels in the *front* rather than the back, you'd know what's going on All kidding aside, I'll let Rolf tell the story. Good to have you back.

Hello Peter - There is an o-ring for the gas filler tube, but the one I have is made out of similar soft metail used for exhaust o-rings. Anybody have more info? Also, you can get your sleeves to replace the inner bearing races on your axle housings; George should have a pair to sell you. You'd still have to take them to a machine shop though to be done.

I'm coming in Friday as well, but not staying at the main hotel. I'm staying for the Saturday and Sunday shows, then flying back home Sunday night.

If I'm not mistaken, "48" and "78" prefixes are Ford part numbers from '34 and '37, respectively. Any good supply shop for old flathead parts should be able to get those for you.

One last pic of rear outer rails from the '37 sedan. Again, original maroon paint.

Another ugly engine bay pic. In this case, I can't verify that the paint is original, but I'd say it's better than 50/50. Seems to me the tranny "lip" would keep you from spraying too far down into the tunnel, especially if you are spraying from above.

Not sure how much this will help, but I'll give you what I've got. Quotes from the Authenticity Manual: "PART 6, FRAME All Parts 1936 - 1948* Black *NOTE: EXCEPTION, exposed parts of frame members in engine compartment, front and rear wheel wells, rocker panel inner frame members, rear cross members -- CAR COLOR" And on page 5: "NOTE: 1936-1948 Zephyrs and LIncolns were uni-body construction and were painted as a unit. However, frame subassembly was black enamel coated prior to body attachment and certain areas such as center of the unibody, both frame and sheet metal were not color coated due to inaccessability." Attached is an ugly pic, but it is the original maroon paint on a '37. Maybe it will help some?

It wouldn't surprise me at all, since features of early prototypes rarely match production vehicles exactly. Reminds me about reading in TWOTZ a few issues back how the door handles changed mid-year in '36 from a straight handle piece that could snag sleeves, to one that curved in toward the car.

Looks great, Rolf. Thanks for taking a lead on this. Now...can you reproduce a '37 rear sway bar for me?

Hey Folks - As far as I know, the bases were the same round piece for both '36s and '37s. Merv Adkins brought a '36 NOS trunklid handle to a swap meet a couple years ago, and besides the color (blue), the one thing that stood out as different to me was that the letters were noticeably thicker. Maybe the difference was intentional or maybe it was differences between suppliers, who knows?

They haven't made the repros in over 10 years, and even they are hard to come by. It's interesting to see all the grills and cars that come up for auction on ebay -- I don't think I've seen one with an intact moulding.

Hey Dale - I actually have two new reproduction ones made by Roy Thorson's son made using CNC machinery. They are much nicer and stronger than the originals, and are cut from solid pieces of brass. The extra one I have needs to be bent to fit the grill and then chromed.

I said the parts were "available", not necessarily cheap! The hardest part to find in any condition -- the '36/7 radiator pan. If they do rod this car, I hope they at least don't chop it.

Good grief, Dale, lift your bonnet and you'll see there is an earth for your block! "Two nations separated by a common language." Pete - I really envy you and the progress you've made. I've been in line for my bodywork for a few years now, but at least the end is in sight...

Don't let the missing parts scare you off. They *are* all available: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4630896947&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Someone save this car!

I can only answer for the '37s I have, but the block intake ports look to be 1 3/16", and the intake manifold ports are 1 1/8".

Hello Frenchy - Yes, it's the same car. Nice, sewing machine-type sound to the engine. Must be all those tiny cylinders!

Hello - Those of you who read the LZOC "Way of the Zephyr" are probably familiar with "Black Beauty", the '37 coupe whose restoration was featured in a series of articles, and which was used to develop the ERTL model. Well, the guy who owns it, Chuck Hora, lives about 25 miles from me. I finally made an appointment to go see him and take some pics for my resto. What a *nice* car and nice guy to boot. He actually took me for a ride in the car as well. Off the line, the car isn't terribly fast, but it cruises very nicely and is very comfortable, and once Chuck engaged the Columbia at 60 mph, the engine just settled right down. I have no doubt it could go coast to coast at 65-70 without a hiccup. The other thing that was so surprising was how roomy it was, even for me, which is saying something (ask V12Bill ). Anyway, just thought I'd share the fun with the forum members. Can't wait to get mine done now.

Is there a book available for the bodywork? There has been done some "restoration" in the 60ies, this includes some bad fixing, and it is not possible to find out what the original profiles under the doors should look like... "Are there also available body parts fore the Zephyr 1938?" Yes, there are. Merv Adkins, listed under "Sources" on the home page, is the first place I would go. He is in California and has a lot of nice, rust free pieces. "The V12 engine i told to be weak in construction. I want to keep this engine in the car, what should I do to make it last. I have not started it yet, but it is told to me to have been running fore ca 4 years ago. Is there an available book on the engine?" Originally, these cars would sometimes, but not always, overheat, build up sludge, and suffer from poor oil pressure. Restorers now get around these problems using modern coolants, higher-volume waterpumps and oilpumps, and modern detergent based oils. The fact that the engine is still in *your* car after nearly 70 years must tell us something about its durability If you need a picture of a specific area, there might be someone here who can post a pic.

Everything I've heard says the V12 was starved with the single carb setup, so I would think the 2-carb setup should help. Anyone with firsthand experience want to add his/her opinion here?

Interesting intake and all, but estimating $1000 a *piece* for 06H carbs? Woohee, I have poor clay soil on my lawn; thinking about shredding the text portion of this ad and using it on my lawn [color:\\"brown\\"] AND COULD WE TYPE IT BIGGER [color:\\"green\\"] AND IN MORE [color:\\"purple\\"] COLORS!?!?!? [color:\\"blue\\"] BEGGARS BE GONE! [color:\\"brown\\"] [color:\\"brown\\"] (Just having some fun here!) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V12-Linco...050775928QQrdZ1

Hello Timo - Where is the car located? Also, is it a two-door or four-door convertible? Thanks in advance.