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Everything posted by 56Roadmaster

  1. hey fellas I'm also into scrap bussiness the price of iron is going down get your nickle's worth of iron before its too late ha!!
  2. Hi Michael, just a thought, most general motors cars shared alot of parts so you should be able use a spring from Pontiac, Olds, Chevy or Caddy, covering many years,and you can paint it the correct color afterward if you are doing a show car. If you want justa spring to work you will find that something off a GM into the 1980's will. Scott
  3. Hi Mark one of the quickest ways to see if generator is charging is to connect a voltmeter to the battery. See what voltage is with the car off then check it with the car running voltage should be 1-2 volts above what you had with it off, should be this with lights on or off, you may have to rev engine slightly if you have idle set really low.
  4. Hello 53Buick, tried to look up part# for you but didn't have it. Still I suspect the filter is oriented the way I told you to eliminate all doubt you should try to get hold of original factory service manual for your car generally they show a good picture of the engine. Curious myself wasn't 1953 the first year for v-8 ? or did the v-8 go into only one model that year?-Scott
  5. Tom, just curious if you tried Andy Burnbaum auto parts in Mass. They specialize in NOS parts which may or may not be cost effective if you are going to have yours replated -scott
  6. hi are you looking for the wood because you don't have it or it is rotted-in which case if you have patterns I can repro it for you.
  7. yeah even though my Buicks are still in progress it's fun to just go out and work on them-when better cars are built Buick will build them....and when Buick cars get old nuts like us RE-built them
  8. Hey Big Paul, here is something somewhat related to your post, I have a '83 regal daily driver originally 3.8 auto. I put in a '69 430 from a Riv. w/ TH-425,the beauty about GM is that you can put their computer controls on the older engine because the Q-jet fits and you will have to drill and tap or weld a boss to exhaust manifold for the O2 sensor. If you try this I recommend using a 64-67 A body trans cross member for dual exhaust. This involves cutting small section of the inner right frame box, I have done two cars and put many hard miles on them without any troubles. You should get the frame pads from the riv since they can easily welded or bolted to the regal frame, You will have to change the sump to a rear sump I rewelded mine but later found that the early 455 pan and pump pick-up will do the trick. I used true duals with cats had front pipes made up but you can use a monte-carlo mufflers and pipes at the rear,you will have to readjust the left side tailpipe a little. If you line up everything ok the regal driveshaft will work all you have to do is by the proper U-joint to mate the regal shaft to the Riv yoke-be sure you get the yoke with tranny as they are hard to find,Also the 200r4 tranny will bolt up though I,m not sure about the torque capability 430 is 360 HP and 420+ ft-lbs. I'm going to try this to improve fuel, I get about 18 high-way at 2300 Rpm. -have fun-Scott
  9. hi John, the water pump if it were to have a damaged seal would likely be showing up as a leak when you are warmed up if it was really bad it would leak when cold. If you want to test it use a pressure tester don't exceed specified limits check book. once you have pumped up pressure should hold and any system leaks will either be obvious or show falling pressure. also water pump should not be noisy which is generally bad bearing. The impeller and volute are next to impossible to kill so if it is turning without leaks and its reasonably quiet it is working. The thermostat can be checked 1) if engine is running and heat/temp gauge comes up smoothly and normally and doesn't indicate wild oscillation it is alright. 2) take it out and put it on the stove in water with a themometer. Heat the water and you should see the stat open at recommended temp usually 180-195 F. sometimes temp is stamped on thermostat itself, but the temps I gave you are pretty much standard to most engines.-scott
  10. are these for roadmaster, if so is split bench are spring assemblies good? price each?
  11. Hello granby, You should have the windshield wiper motor vacuum line running from the wiper motor directly to the pump suction side and the discharge side of the pump connected to the manifold. Thus the vacuum pump is in series between the wiper motor and manifold. So then it functions like so at low loads the manifold vacuum is high due to the pressure difference across the throttle plate and the manifold vacuum draws through the pump check valves. then as you open the throttle the manifold pressure increases toward atomsphere now the pump starts working to keep the vacuum pressure up to run the wiper motor. If you have the wiper and the pump connected in parallel you are not accomplishing much,if you had the pump in series with connections reversed you probably would not work at all, so I think you are connected in parallel when it should be series...hope that helps.-scott
  12. In the window a small bump toward the top may be the mark. also consider gettin a timing light which has an adjustable scale. With the engine off set the #1 cylinder at TDC compression note where the flywheel mark is in the window mark a corresponding mark in the window that is now your zero(TDC) mark. With the adjustable light at zero and engine running check to see that the marks coincide when illuminated. The set the light to advance you want and move the distributor until the marks zero again. Now you have the correct timming. Another rude way to set advance is to start the engine run at about 2000 rpm and move the distributor slowly carefully listening to where the engine starts to slow then move it carefully the other way until the peak rpm is obtained then road test and check for spark knock, retard as necessary. I don't recommend this way unless you are very familiar with engines as you could cause damage to valves and pistons!!!
  13. hello again, it is quite possible someone has given the wrong term with right intent the they may have been referring to the frost,freeze,or core plugs in the engine block and heater is not to my knowledge called a defrost plug.-scott
  14. Hello,maybe this might help I have a 1950 super engine unmolested the filter is installed with the upper fitting facing towards firewall and there is a drain plug.also from a 1949 Buick factory manual a passenger side view of engine shows the filter installed with the top fitting towards firewall in both cases drain plug is also oriented to firewall fore and aft.will try to look up part # for you and compare it for several years if its in my parts book. -scott
  15. A couple of other things: Check to see if (after you've checked fuse)1) with a test light do you have power to the motor with the heater switch on,if not check then do you have power to the switch, and so on back to fuse panel this eliminates guessing and is systematic. If you don't have power at the motor it could be the switch or the resistor in line to the motor. If you have power to motor check to see that the motor is not stuck, you may have to take it out to see if you can't reach the blower through a duct. Also if you have power to the motor check to make sure you have a good ground,you can check by running a separate ground wire to motor casing, if this is the trouble try loosening and retightening motor bolts to disturb corrosion. one more thing if you are getting power be sure it is the correct volts if 6 volt system it should be about that with switch in high. PART II. it is unlikely you damaged your water pump unless you ran engine dry, in which case the seal would likely go,The black smoke at start up if cold is due to an improper choke setting and or pull off. If hot the carb may be perculating,(dumping fuel in to intake when you shut down, probably the float needle a little dirty. Hope that helps-Scott
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