56Roadmaster

Hi, Having worked on Packard engines and Buick,and just studying the design aspects, The Buick is hands down the leader of the pack and has been since the 1920's The overhead valve is just a more efficient combustion chamber, the Packards have cam followers that are alot more complex then they have to be and prone to breaking when engine gets a stuck valve. Old and Pontiac were made as a lower level on the price scale and while practical are not in the same performance category on the other hand The Stuz and Dusenberg 8 (Lycomming Engines) are marvelous pieces of machinery.<p>[ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Scott W. Taylor ]

My 56 Hdtp would like to see the light of day this year and new doors,ditto for the other two however uncle scrooge said he'd rather repair the old floppy doors then spend a nickel on it and "braze the holy rotten ex-haust pipes fa la la la la .....etc"

Hi,if you are getting click out of that window the relay is actuating. Relay has two circuits closing coil and load contacts (for motor) Check to see if you are getting power to the load side these are usually the heavier gauge wire,then check to see if power goes to motor with switch on. If power to motor check motor ground,Also tap motor moderately with hammer see if it then goes.If not Motor may be bad especially if used alot ie: drivers side. You may be able to close the window (space is limited) by unbolting the motor from the riser,and then pulling it up and put motor back in to hold it. BE CAREFUL some of the risers have a heavy spring and they can be finger hungry!

60 code 4G turns over, 63 code JT,stuck 50-stuck. v-8 are4bbl,str 8 is 2bbl from 1950 Super all engines have carb, starter,alt/gen,fan,dyna flow trans,63 open driveshaft,all under 100k, deliver in CT $50 otherwise buyer provides shipping- Scott

NAPA also carries a Buick red seemed to be nearly exact in spray cans.Used it on my 69 430.

A risk redundancy from a mechanic to another,check points with dwell meter I have seen the rubbing block wear rapidly and close them up. check timing. check and see if your fuel line has pin hole or kink especially if old check it stem to stern. blow through. possibility your new filter is not right application and or become plugged, as a last hope it isn't your timimg chain may be on its way out, I have seen these skip a tooth or two and run for some time before finally giving out, Also check that your fuel tank cap/vent system is working properly.

Don just a thought, I once had a1912 Buick that I really was working hard on I ran into some real depressed times and sold the car after some time every thing cleared up again and now I think I could have kept it, well actually looking back I know I should have it sounds like you think you your car has become tooo important, well shelve it for a while you WILL get back to finishing it.

Hi, Yikes... sounds like the piston area is at fault try putting some oil into the cylinder this seals rings, pressure reading should come up, if not could be valves but air into crank case indicates piston trouble possible cause beside rings, piston burned through (overheat, improper timing) wrist pin let loose and dug up bore. You can do this in house but you will probably end up unbolting engine mounts and disconnecting so much it will be easier to pull engine and put on a stand, plus if high milage you may run into bearing problems etc...scott

Also this may help 1934 Victor Gaket Guide covers 12-23 6cyl Models h,k,44,45,46,47,48,49,50,55 some part # put GM# then (victor#) Intake manifold 1-33/64"X2-1/8" 36190 (2246) need 3, Intake ans exhaust 1-13/32"X2" 14244 (2222) need 6,Exhaust pipe flange 1-27/32" 33725 (5358) need1,exhaust gasket and guide two flange 1-3/8" 14244-33884 (6512) need 6, Intake gasket and guide two flange 1-1/2" 36190-36016 (6514) need 3, valve cage 1-1/2"X1-11/16" (2232) need 6, oilpan two piece 44076-44339 (20028 or 30028 addE for pan set)need 1,gear cover 44061 (22109) need 1, Water inlet manifold 21417 (7768) need 1, cylinder block 33729 (22309) this may help you at least have a part number for some one who has old stock or carry them with you to a swap meet to indentify parts. would be glad to give out part #s also for any years to 1934 from this book good luck with search-scott

hi, try Walter Miller in New York, you can find him in Hemmings he is usually listed in several different sections.

hello, just curious I wonder if the 57 has an adjustable top anchor like the 56's if so maybe your shoes are not centered in the hub.Also make sure the service brake adjustment is correct first. Consider checking for sticking cables it does not take much drag in cable to housing fit to prevent releasing fully, check for weak or broken return springs.

hello, best thing is to hit your local/regional swap meets usually you will find a least one book dealer there who has what you need usually $25-$75 condition and scarcity dependent

hey fellas I'm also into scrap bussiness the price of iron is going down get your nickle's worth of iron before its too late ha!!

Hi Michael, just a thought, most general motors cars shared alot of parts so you should be able use a spring from Pontiac, Olds, Chevy or Caddy, covering many years,and you can paint it the correct color afterward if you are doing a show car. If you want justa spring to work you will find that something off a GM into the 1980's will. Scott

Hi Mark one of the quickest ways to see if generator is charging is to connect a voltmeter to the battery. See what voltage is with the car off then check it with the car running voltage should be 1-2 volts above what you had with it off, should be this with lights on or off, you may have to rev engine slightly if you have idle set really low.

Hello 53Buick, tried to look up part# for you but didn't have it. Still I suspect the filter is oriented the way I told you to eliminate all doubt you should try to get hold of original factory service manual for your car generally they show a good picture of the engine. Curious myself wasn't 1953 the first year for v-8 ? or did the v-8 go into only one model that year?-Scott

Tom, just curious if you tried Andy Burnbaum auto parts in Mass. They specialize in NOS parts which may or may not be cost effective if you are going to have yours replated -scott

hi are you looking for the wood because you don't have it or it is rotted-in which case if you have patterns I can repro it for you.

yeah even though my Buicks are still in progress it's fun to just go out and work on them-when better cars are built Buick will build them....and when Buick cars get old nuts like us RE-built them

Hey Big Paul, here is something somewhat related to your post, I have a '83 regal daily driver originally 3.8 auto. I put in a '69 430 from a Riv. w/ TH-425,the beauty about GM is that you can put their computer controls on the older engine because the Q-jet fits and you will have to drill and tap or weld a boss to exhaust manifold for the O2 sensor. If you try this I recommend using a 64-67 A body trans cross member for dual exhaust. This involves cutting small section of the inner right frame box, I have done two cars and put many hard miles on them without any troubles. You should get the frame pads from the riv since they can easily welded or bolted to the regal frame, You will have to change the sump to a rear sump I rewelded mine but later found that the early 455 pan and pump pick-up will do the trick. I used true duals with cats had front pipes made up but you can use a monte-carlo mufflers and pipes at the rear,you will have to readjust the left side tailpipe a little. If you line up everything ok the regal driveshaft will work all you have to do is by the proper U-joint to mate the regal shaft to the Riv yoke-be sure you get the yoke with tranny as they are hard to find,Also the 200r4 tranny will bolt up though I,m not sure about the torque capability 430 is 360 HP and 420+ ft-lbs. I'm going to try this to improve fuel, I get about 18 high-way at 2300 Rpm. -have fun-Scott

hi John, the water pump if it were to have a damaged seal would likely be showing up as a leak when you are warmed up if it was really bad it would leak when cold. If you want to test it use a pressure tester don't exceed specified limits check book. once you have pumped up pressure should hold and any system leaks will either be obvious or show falling pressure. also water pump should not be noisy which is generally bad bearing. The impeller and volute are next to impossible to kill so if it is turning without leaks and its reasonably quiet it is working. The thermostat can be checked 1) if engine is running and heat/temp gauge comes up smoothly and normally and doesn't indicate wild oscillation it is alright. 2) take it out and put it on the stove in water with a themometer. Heat the water and you should see the stat open at recommended temp usually 180-195 F. sometimes temp is stamped on thermostat itself, but the temps I gave you are pretty much standard to most engines.-scott

are these for roadmaster, if so is split bench are spring assemblies good? price each?

Hello granby, You should have the windshield wiper motor vacuum line running from the wiper motor directly to the pump suction side and the discharge side of the pump connected to the manifold. Thus the vacuum pump is in series between the wiper motor and manifold. So then it functions like so at low loads the manifold vacuum is high due to the pressure difference across the throttle plate and the manifold vacuum draws through the pump check valves. then as you open the throttle the manifold pressure increases toward atomsphere now the pump starts working to keep the vacuum pressure up to run the wiper motor. If you have the wiper and the pump connected in parallel you are not accomplishing much,if you had the pump in series with connections reversed you probably would not work at all, so I think you are connected in parallel when it should be series...hope that helps.-scott

In the window a small bump toward the top may be the mark. also consider gettin a timing light which has an adjustable scale. With the engine off set the #1 cylinder at TDC compression note where the flywheel mark is in the window mark a corresponding mark in the window that is now your zero(TDC) mark. With the adjustable light at zero and engine running check to see that the marks coincide when illuminated. The set the light to advance you want and move the distributor until the marks zero again. Now you have the correct timming. Another rude way to set advance is to start the engine run at about 2000 rpm and move the distributor slowly carefully listening to where the engine starts to slow then move it carefully the other way until the peak rpm is obtained then road test and check for spark knock, retard as necessary. I don't recommend this way unless you are very familiar with engines as you could cause damage to valves and pistons!!!

hello again, it is quite possible someone has given the wrong term with right intent the they may have been referring to the frost,freeze,or core plugs in the engine block and heater is not to my knowledge called a defrost plug.-scott